Monster LVL 3 and chromemoly flywheel on!
04-19-2009, 08:26 AM
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Monster LVL 3 and chromemoly flywheel on! The totall install took about 8 hours with a single jack and 4 jack stands. I got the whole assembly down in 3 hours including the stock clutch. I went with the chromemoly flywheel from Monster because if I'm spending $800 I want to atleast know I will gain a little bit of power from it. Anyway, everything went up smoothly until I got to the tranny. I only had one jack with my wife raising and lowering it. I could easily get it up over the Bassani TD's. With a little finessing, I got the shaft into the bellhousing. From there I used a cinder block and a piece of wood to hold the back end up and put the jack on bellhousing and transmission from the front of the car so when its raised the tranny slides forward. I literally had to jack it up into the body to get everything to line up. I had the bottom 3 bolts in and slowly tightened them and worked my way around. This did the trick. Just getting it up there took an hour and half. Everything else went up smoothly. I used Valvoline high mileage tranny fluid since it has the extra additives in it for wear. Napa guy said it was almost the same as the Synchromesh. It's fluid so it works and shifts fine. I also used a new GM slave, TO bearing, already had Tick MC, and Napa dot 4 clutch fluid. THANK YOU Joey @Tick for the speed bleeder. Wow, that thing is amazing. I bled the clutch in less than 5 minutes with a full pedal.
So I read all the threads with people saying not to go with a lighter flywheel in a DD car. I am so glad I did. I got the Monster chromemoly one (15lbs). I might have to rev it up an extra 500 rpms to get moving faster but the car still pulls itself without the gas. I can barely tell it's there. The shifting engagement is so smooth and shifts so much better (stock clutch 80k miles). It's still in break in period obviously, but the it does rev faster, that's the most noticeable difference. I am glad I didn't go with the stock weight flywheel. I would even go to a lighter aluminum version. If you know how to drive a clutch well, then this flywheel won't be a problem.
Reccomendations. You need swivel sockets! You can't get into the bellhousing bots without them, and it makes the driveshaft and tranny bolts very easy to get to. I picked up a set with a 3/8" to 1/4" adpater and 3/8" swivel socket at Walmart for $6. While you are there, get the 3 piece extension for 3/8" drive. You will need 2 packages. They come with 3 extensions one meaning 10". I used (2) 10" extension on every tranny bolt and the top bolt I used 26" of extensions. A breaker bar is nice to remove the bolts with so you don't bang your knuckles. I used a rubber hammer to hold the flywheel tightening (placed it on top of the protruding piece on the right of the flywheel, so wheel I tighten the flywheel turns right and the rubber stops it) and a long screwdriver I stuck in the piece right of the flywheel to hold it from rotating left on tightening the bolts. I also would used 2 single jacks or a tranny jack to ease the pain of bench pressing the tranny in. My wife ran me over with the jack on my stomach and my arm. Looks like I blew a vein out from drug injections or something. BTW, I used 7 cans of brake cleaner on all the parts. $3 Walmart.
My only question is, how high does everybody's clutch pedal sit with the Tick MC? Mine is higher than the brake pedal but any lower and the gears grind. Still shifts fine, just higher.
So I read all the threads with people saying not to go with a lighter flywheel in a DD car. I am so glad I did. I got the Monster chromemoly one (15lbs). I might have to rev it up an extra 500 rpms to get moving faster but the car still pulls itself without the gas. I can barely tell it's there. The shifting engagement is so smooth and shifts so much better (stock clutch 80k miles). It's still in break in period obviously, but the it does rev faster, that's the most noticeable difference. I am glad I didn't go with the stock weight flywheel. I would even go to a lighter aluminum version. If you know how to drive a clutch well, then this flywheel won't be a problem.
Reccomendations. You need swivel sockets! You can't get into the bellhousing bots without them, and it makes the driveshaft and tranny bolts very easy to get to. I picked up a set with a 3/8" to 1/4" adpater and 3/8" swivel socket at Walmart for $6. While you are there, get the 3 piece extension for 3/8" drive. You will need 2 packages. They come with 3 extensions one meaning 10". I used (2) 10" extension on every tranny bolt and the top bolt I used 26" of extensions. A breaker bar is nice to remove the bolts with so you don't bang your knuckles. I used a rubber hammer to hold the flywheel tightening (placed it on top of the protruding piece on the right of the flywheel, so wheel I tighten the flywheel turns right and the rubber stops it) and a long screwdriver I stuck in the piece right of the flywheel to hold it from rotating left on tightening the bolts. I also would used 2 single jacks or a tranny jack to ease the pain of bench pressing the tranny in. My wife ran me over with the jack on my stomach and my arm. Looks like I blew a vein out from drug injections or something. BTW, I used 7 cans of brake cleaner on all the parts. $3 Walmart.
My only question is, how high does everybody's clutch pedal sit with the Tick MC? Mine is higher than the brake pedal but any lower and the gears grind. Still shifts fine, just higher.
04-19-2009, 09:49 AM
#2
hell yeah to getting the wife out there!
and as far as the tick master, I adjusted mine till it will go into gear ok, and the car wont move when you rev it up 5k plus... and mine is just even with the brake pedal.
I have a Monster stage 6, and I didnt break it in correctly but me and Steve haved worked out a deal. but when mine did work fine I loved it. I hope to have my new one sometime mid next week thanks to Steve being an awesome guy!
again thanks Steve, and Monster clutches, you guys sure do take care of your customers!
and as far as the tick master, I adjusted mine till it will go into gear ok, and the car wont move when you rev it up 5k plus... and mine is just even with the brake pedal.
I have a Monster stage 6, and I didnt break it in correctly but me and Steve haved worked out a deal. but when mine did work fine I loved it. I hope to have my new one sometime mid next week thanks to Steve being an awesome guy!
again thanks Steve, and Monster clutches, you guys sure do take care of your customers!
04-19-2009, 10:31 AM
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Yea, I know these photos are of a 4L60E removal, but I'll be using the
same technique to do the clutch on the T56:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...eat=directlink
same technique to do the clutch on the T56:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...eat=directlink
04-19-2009, 11:14 AM
#5
Got the same thing you did installed yesterday.
Also figured if I was spending the money I might as well save a little rotational weight.
I guess some guys use the inertia in that heavy stocker to get their car moving.
Here I was just relying on HP and TQ
Also figured if I was spending the money I might as well save a little rotational weight.
I guess some guys use the inertia in that heavy stocker to get their car moving.
Here I was just relying on HP and TQ
04-19-2009, 07:51 PM
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I am not patient enough to go through all of that. Get someone/something to hold and maneuver the tailshaft housing for you. Stick your legs out the front of the car and bench the front of the trans up. The 2 times I've done it I got lucky and the input shaft slid right in. Takes about 5 minutes.
Your way is safer though for sure. If you don't have swivels you can use about 5 ft of extensions to get the top bolts out. I had worn out motor mounts that helped some though.
I believe the break in for the monster is stop and go traffic for 500 miles. My friend loves his stage 3 so far.
Your way is safer though for sure. If you don't have swivels you can use about 5 ft of extensions to get the top bolts out. I had worn out motor mounts that helped some though.
I believe the break in for the monster is stop and go traffic for 500 miles. My friend loves his stage 3 so far.
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04-20-2009, 07:21 AM
#8
the light flywheels are nice once you're moving.
it still surprises me when i break the tires loose...and how fast the car snaps to redline.
my Spec 4 won't pull the car out from a stop without some throttle...not a big deal, but it does suck in slow traffic.
break in for my clutch to stop chattering was 1000 miles. i took it easy for 500, and got a little more aggressive from 500-1000 but nothing CRAZY.
it still surprises me when i break the tires loose...and how fast the car snaps to redline.
my Spec 4 won't pull the car out from a stop without some throttle...not a big deal, but it does suck in slow traffic.
break in for my clutch to stop chattering was 1000 miles. i took it easy for 500, and got a little more aggressive from 500-1000 but nothing CRAZY.
04-20-2009, 07:26 AM
#9
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I haven't tested the flywheel but the motor turns over faster and revs from idle faster. I can do 25 mph in 4th gear and push the gas and it goes, doesn't kind of bog like the other one. I can give the car about 1/4 less gas cruising and it will feel the same if I gave it that much more gas with the stock flywheel. It still chatters but I have less than 100 miles on it.
04-20-2009, 05:03 PM
#10
The totall install took about 8 hours with a single jack and 4 jack stands. I got the whole assembly down in 3 hours including the stock clutch. I went with the chromemoly flywheel from Monster because if I'm spending $800 I want to atleast know I will gain a little bit of power from it. Anyway, everything went up smoothly until I got to the tranny. I only had one jack with my wife raising and lowering it. I could easily get it up over the Bassani TD's. With a little finessing, I got the shaft into the bellhousing. From there I used a cinder block and a piece of wood to hold the back end up and put the jack on bellhousing and transmission from the front of the car so when its raised the tranny slides forward. I literally had to jack it up into the body to get everything to line up. I had the bottom 3 bolts in and slowly tightened them and worked my way around. This did the trick. Just getting it up there took an hour and half. Everything else went up smoothly. I used Valvoline high mileage tranny fluid since it has the extra additives in it for wear. Napa guy said it was almost the same as the Synchromesh. It's fluid so it works and shifts fine. I also used a new GM slave, TO bearing, already had Tick MC, and Napa dot 4 clutch fluid. THANK YOU Joey @Tick for the speed bleeder. Wow, that thing is amazing. I bled the clutch in less than 5 minutes with a full pedal.
So I read all the threads with people saying not to go with a lighter flywheel in a DD car. I am so glad I did. I got the Monster chromemoly one (15lbs). I might have to rev it up an extra 500 rpms to get moving faster but the car still pulls itself without the gas. I can barely tell it's there. The shifting engagement is so smooth and shifts so much better (stock clutch 80k miles). It's still in break in period obviously, but the it does rev faster, that's the most noticeable difference. I am glad I didn't go with the stock weight flywheel. I would even go to a lighter aluminum version. If you know how to drive a clutch well, then this flywheel won't be a problem.
Reccomendations. You need swivel sockets! You can't get into the bellhousing bots without them, and it makes the driveshaft and tranny bolts very easy to get to. I picked up a set with a 3/8" to 1/4" adpater and 3/8" swivel socket at Walmart for $6. While you are there, get the 3 piece extension for 3/8" drive. You will need 2 packages. They come with 3 extensions one meaning 10". I used (2) 10" extension on every tranny bolt and the top bolt I used 26" of extensions. A breaker bar is nice to remove the bolts with so you don't bang your knuckles. I used a rubber hammer to hold the flywheel tightening (placed it on top of the protruding piece on the right of the flywheel, so wheel I tighten the flywheel turns right and the rubber stops it) and a long screwdriver I stuck in the piece right of the flywheel to hold it from rotating left on tightening the bolts. I also would used 2 single jacks or a tranny jack to ease the pain of bench pressing the tranny in. My wife ran me over with the jack on my stomach and my arm. Looks like I blew a vein out from drug injections or something. BTW, I used 7 cans of brake cleaner on all the parts. $3 Walmart.
My only question is, how high does everybody's clutch pedal sit with the Tick MC? Mine is higher than the brake pedal but any lower and the gears grind. Still shifts fine, just higher.
So I read all the threads with people saying not to go with a lighter flywheel in a DD car. I am so glad I did. I got the Monster chromemoly one (15lbs). I might have to rev it up an extra 500 rpms to get moving faster but the car still pulls itself without the gas. I can barely tell it's there. The shifting engagement is so smooth and shifts so much better (stock clutch 80k miles). It's still in break in period obviously, but the it does rev faster, that's the most noticeable difference. I am glad I didn't go with the stock weight flywheel. I would even go to a lighter aluminum version. If you know how to drive a clutch well, then this flywheel won't be a problem.
Reccomendations. You need swivel sockets! You can't get into the bellhousing bots without them, and it makes the driveshaft and tranny bolts very easy to get to. I picked up a set with a 3/8" to 1/4" adpater and 3/8" swivel socket at Walmart for $6. While you are there, get the 3 piece extension for 3/8" drive. You will need 2 packages. They come with 3 extensions one meaning 10". I used (2) 10" extension on every tranny bolt and the top bolt I used 26" of extensions. A breaker bar is nice to remove the bolts with so you don't bang your knuckles. I used a rubber hammer to hold the flywheel tightening (placed it on top of the protruding piece on the right of the flywheel, so wheel I tighten the flywheel turns right and the rubber stops it) and a long screwdriver I stuck in the piece right of the flywheel to hold it from rotating left on tightening the bolts. I also would used 2 single jacks or a tranny jack to ease the pain of bench pressing the tranny in. My wife ran me over with the jack on my stomach and my arm. Looks like I blew a vein out from drug injections or something. BTW, I used 7 cans of brake cleaner on all the parts. $3 Walmart.
My only question is, how high does everybody's clutch pedal sit with the Tick MC? Mine is higher than the brake pedal but any lower and the gears grind. Still shifts fine, just higher.
Keep us posted as you break it in. The procedure is 500 miles of stop and go, the more you heat cycle it the smoother it will be. After 500 miles drive the hell out of it until something on your car breaks...
hell yeah to getting the wife out there!
and as far as the tick master, I adjusted mine till it will go into gear ok, and the car wont move when you rev it up 5k plus... and mine is just even with the brake pedal.
I have a Monster stage 6, and I didnt break it in correctly but me and Steve haved worked out a deal. but when mine did work fine I loved it. I hope to have my new one sometime mid next week thanks to Steve being an awesome guy!
again thanks Steve, and Monster clutches, you guys sure do take care of your customers!
and as far as the tick master, I adjusted mine till it will go into gear ok, and the car wont move when you rev it up 5k plus... and mine is just even with the brake pedal.
I have a Monster stage 6, and I didnt break it in correctly but me and Steve haved worked out a deal. but when mine did work fine I loved it. I hope to have my new one sometime mid next week thanks to Steve being an awesome guy!
again thanks Steve, and Monster clutches, you guys sure do take care of your customers!
06-28-2009, 11:24 AM
#11
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So I'm at the 2000+ mile mark and here are my reviews. I finally got everything broken in. I now know what people mean when they say you have to rev the car more from a take off. If I don't rev it to like 1500-2000 rpms before trying to move it will still go but will shake and feel like the clutch is slipping. THIS THING GRIPS! I did a few drop gears on it from 4th to 3rd or 3rd to 2nd and it barks the tires everytime. When I first did a 1st gear run I thought something was wrong because it revved so much faster. I don't see (stock power) how your 60ft time could decrease from this setup. I take off so much faster and easier from the line because it's easier to hit the powerband on a launch. I would never go to a heavier flywheel for a street car. Never.
06-28-2009, 01:53 PM
#12
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So I'm at the 2000+ mile mark and here are my reviews. I finally got everything broken in. I now know what people mean when they say you have to rev the car more from a take off. If I don't rev it to like 1500-2000 rpms before trying to move it will still go but will shake and feel like the clutch is slipping. THIS THING GRIPS! I did a few drop gears on it from 4th to 3rd or 3rd to 2nd and it barks the tires everytime. When I first did a 1st gear run I thought something was wrong because it revved so much faster. I don't see (stock power) how your 60ft time could decrease from this setup. I take off so much faster and easier from the line because it's easier to hit the powerband on a launch. I would never go to a heavier flywheel for a street car. Never.
Glad you are liking it! I too like the lightened flywheel for street apps myself. I think they have gotten a bad rap over teh years, but more and more people are finding out that you can use them on teh street with success! Enjoy!
06-28-2009, 05:44 PM
#13
I've got about 1500 miles on mine now, same setup. Loving it so far but I keep forgetting about having to rev it higher like you said. Its pretty embarrassing when I do because now that I got the solid motor mounts in it makes me do a little one-wheel chirp thing and the car makes all sorts of rattles and groans.
07-04-2009, 07:48 PM
#15
I have the lighter chromoly flywheel. After driving mine a bit now too, it's not the 'lack of weight' that makes it harder starting out. It's because the thing doesn't slip period.
I'm not convinced a heavier flywheel would make that go away and I'm fine with my lighter one.
It was near 100* the other week here and I had a friend in the car who I wanted to show how it ran.
I made a left turn and rolled it on.
chirped 2nd
chirped 3rd
chirped 4th
before I let up.
While I'd love to pretend my car had enough power to chirp the tires going in to 4th gear the fact is it pretty much has to be the fact the clutch doesn't slip causing it.
Like the other guy said, blow the tires and it pretty much hits redline before you can let up.
Lighter is better. The solution to all this is stickier tires.
I'm not convinced a heavier flywheel would make that go away and I'm fine with my lighter one.
It was near 100* the other week here and I had a friend in the car who I wanted to show how it ran.
I made a left turn and rolled it on.
chirped 2nd
chirped 3rd
chirped 4th
before I let up.
While I'd love to pretend my car had enough power to chirp the tires going in to 4th gear the fact is it pretty much has to be the fact the clutch doesn't slip causing it.
Like the other guy said, blow the tires and it pretty much hits redline before you can let up.
Lighter is better. The solution to all this is stickier tires.
07-07-2009, 10:29 AM
#17
I have the lighter chromoly flywheel. After driving mine a bit now too, it's not the 'lack of weight' that makes it harder starting out. It's because the thing doesn't slip period.
I'm not convinced a heavier flywheel would make that go away and I'm fine with my lighter one.
It was near 100* the other week here and I had a friend in the car who I wanted to show how it ran.
I made a left turn and rolled it on.
chirped 2nd
chirped 3rd
chirped 4th
before I let up.
While I'd love to pretend my car had enough power to chirp the tires going in to 4th gear the fact is it pretty much has to be the fact the clutch doesn't slip causing it.
Like the other guy said, blow the tires and it pretty much hits redline before you can let up.
Lighter is better. The solution to all this is stickier tires.
I'm not convinced a heavier flywheel would make that go away and I'm fine with my lighter one.
It was near 100* the other week here and I had a friend in the car who I wanted to show how it ran.
I made a left turn and rolled it on.
chirped 2nd
chirped 3rd
chirped 4th
before I let up.
While I'd love to pretend my car had enough power to chirp the tires going in to 4th gear the fact is it pretty much has to be the fact the clutch doesn't slip causing it.
Like the other guy said, blow the tires and it pretty much hits redline before you can let up.
Lighter is better. The solution to all this is stickier tires.
Indeed, thanks man!
