Torquer v.2 Dyno low #'s?
#1
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Torquer v.2 Dyno low #'s?
I went to the dyno yesterday and here are the results:
Mods:
Lid
P&P throttle body
Long tubes
Catted y and Catback
Torquer 2
7.4 pushrods
prc doulbe springs
ls6 intake
and no2 (wasnt sprayed for the dyno run, there was a problem with the bottle)
And other little things that dont add power (oil pump, timing chain, ect)
The numbers seem really low to me but who knows.
Mods:
Lid
P&P throttle body
Long tubes
Catted y and Catback
Torquer 2
7.4 pushrods
prc doulbe springs
ls6 intake
and no2 (wasnt sprayed for the dyno run, there was a problem with the bottle)
And other little things that dont add power (oil pump, timing chain, ect)
The numbers seem really low to me but who knows.
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idk where to start looking for the rest of the power that there is supposed to be, any ideas would be nice.
Last edited by Wdpballer46; 04-26-2009 at 05:17 PM.
#10
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idle isn't bad, around 1200 right when i start it, then it drops to about 800-900 after a few seconds. when i'm moving tho, it hangs around 1500 and doesn't drop till i come to a COMPLETE stop, i'm not sure if thats normal or not.
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No that is not normal, I'm assuming your an M6, mine was doing the same thing after I installed my LS6 intake, turns out I had a vaccum leak, my tuner caught this, yours should have too, check your PCV hoses, this will be a good place to start lookin. I can't believe the tuner didn't say or do anything about it, thats crappy on his part.
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Sock injecters for that year were either 26 or 28lbs i think, do you know what % duty cycle yours were at during WOT? If stock They should be maxed out with that cam, for referance my buddy just put down 410hp and 380 something torque through a stalled auto, cam only with a torquer v2...
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Man those numbers are low. Also, your car stock had 26lb injectors. Sounds to me like you got a bum *** deal from your tuner. That cam with bolt-ons should have netted you close to 400 at the wheels with a decent amount of torque to go with it. Need a tuner you do yes.
#15
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It's always the tuners fault. It can't be the inexperienced DIY guy that put it together. Nope. Gotta be the tuner. I mean, the A/F is dead on, all ya gotta do is find the timings happy zone, and then it is what it is. At least for WOT tuning. There's no magic buttons to push to make it make power. It's just A/F and timing. Pretty cut and dried. Idle and driveability tuning, that's a different story, but WOT tuning is pretty easy.
Just yesterday, I tuned an Fbody with a fairly stout cam (don't know the cool e-name), Patriot CNCed 243s, stalled auto, and it made 383/325 with a locked 'verter. I guess the low power in that would be my fault, eh?
Just yesterday, I tuned an Fbody with a fairly stout cam (don't know the cool e-name), Patriot CNCed 243s, stalled auto, and it made 383/325 with a locked 'verter. I guess the low power in that would be my fault, eh?
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It's always the tuners fault. It can't be the inexperienced DIY guy that put it together. Nope. Gotta be the tuner. I mean, the A/F is dead on, all ya gotta do is find the timings happy zone, and then it is what it is. At least for WOT tuning. There's no magic buttons to push to make it make power. It's just A/F and timing. Pretty cut and dried. Idle and driveability tuning, that's a different story, but WOT tuning is pretty easy.
Just yesterday, I tuned an Fbody with a fairly stout cam (don't know the cool e-name), Patriot CNCed 243s, stalled auto, and it made 383/325 with a locked 'verter. I guess the low power in that would be my fault, eh?
Just yesterday, I tuned an Fbody with a fairly stout cam (don't know the cool e-name), Patriot CNCed 243s, stalled auto, and it made 383/325 with a locked 'verter. I guess the low power in that would be my fault, eh?
The fact still remains those are extreamly low numbers for that cam. I still have 8deg of knock retard and am running higher numbers than that with just bold ons. So yes, my vote is for the tuner.
Id say at least get with your tuner and try to find the problem, not nessasarily in the tune, but look around, you might be able to see something with hptuners (or whatever you use) that you cant tell by just looking at the engine.
#17
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Point being with the limited facts, that being a dyno sheet with an A/F graph, and that being almost perfect, how can one automatically point to a tuner? Besides the obvious, that being it's the easiest thing to do.
#19
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Here is the magic question -- what did it dyno before the Cam?I've seen a ton of low powered cars,so when you do the bolt-ons they are still low.
Take my car -260rwhp stock (99TA) With pretty much the same setup as yours -370rwhp.Some cars just dyno low.Now if you dyno'd before and said you only gained 20hp then we could say something is wrong.
Take my car -260rwhp stock (99TA) With pretty much the same setup as yours -370rwhp.Some cars just dyno low.Now if you dyno'd before and said you only gained 20hp then we could say something is wrong.