what oil pump to go with????? need help
#1
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what oil pump to go with????? need help
well 383 is good to go, now do i go with a high volume or standard volume pump with a stock oil pan...and if so what length is the stock pump so i can order the correct one and why is either one better??? o yea i should spin around 8000 rpm with this motor too
thanks
thanks
#2
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I can only wonder if you are in over your head on your build. You should know with a build of your magnitude that using the stock pan on a motor even CAPABLE of 8000rpm is essentially engine suicide. You're going to need at least a 6+ quart pan to keep up with the oiling.
Whether or not you need a standard or high volume pump should be left to your engine builder. See what he recommends.
Whether or not you need a standard or high volume pump should be left to your engine builder. See what he recommends.
#3
TECH Veteran
You normally don't need an HV pump, unless your bearing clearances demand it. The advice from your engine builder is ok as long as he really knows what he is doing. Many recommend an HV pump at a whim because they don't know what they are doing.
Funny, it seems like there is a "what oil pump?" question about every other day on this board. Does anyone search before they post?
Funny, it seems like there is a "what oil pump?" question about every other day on this board. Does anyone search before they post?
#4
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Really 8000rpms, you know the computer in a 97 is only capable of at max 7200rpms right?? You going aftermarket management??
Frankly for frequent 8000rpms you probably want either a gerotor pump like Titan or a standard style one with anti cavitation grooves. The gerotor pumps are NICE but pricey, the anticavitiaion grooves ones are not a great idea on street cars that see much idle time.
I know a guy who did a 8000rpm gen 1 build this winter, had massive oiling troubles till he put in a pump with anticavitation grooves. Is a "street car" but 12-1300rpm idle, 4.56s stall north of 5000, TH400 means it sees plenty of rpms even when he is puttering through town much less on the highway.
A high volume pump at those rpms present several serious issues.
Don't know where in WI you are but maybe I will run into you at WIR or GLD.
Frankly for frequent 8000rpms you probably want either a gerotor pump like Titan or a standard style one with anti cavitation grooves. The gerotor pumps are NICE but pricey, the anticavitiaion grooves ones are not a great idea on street cars that see much idle time.
I know a guy who did a 8000rpm gen 1 build this winter, had massive oiling troubles till he put in a pump with anticavitation grooves. Is a "street car" but 12-1300rpm idle, 4.56s stall north of 5000, TH400 means it sees plenty of rpms even when he is puttering through town much less on the highway.
A high volume pump at those rpms present several serious issues.
Don't know where in WI you are but maybe I will run into you at WIR or GLD.
#5
TECH Resident
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I've read some of your other posts and I don't see why you think you'll need to TRY and spin 8k??? The I think for what you have 6800-7000 is more what you would be looking at. Maybe not even that high. Unless you plan on going with a super radical solid roller. In any case you should consult your builder and see what he thinks. Don't take this the wrong way though I don't know all of the detaiil but it just seems like 8k is not reasonable.
#6
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Good point, the friend that did the 8000rpm gen 1 build used a 215cc before porting head, is just over 400ci and the cam is I think 27x on the intake with .700+ lift. Still it does not pull to 8000 quite like he wanted. It is capable but I believe the power band falls off sooner than he had hoped. Believe he still routinely sees 7500 with it.
T&D told him to replace the shaft mounts every other year based on fatigue, I think the $400 springs are yearly. Cost associated with something like this are HIGH
T&D told him to replace the shaft mounts every other year based on fatigue, I think the $400 springs are yearly. Cost associated with something like this are HIGH