2kblackgtp

iTrader: (12)

I was driving on the highway last week. The roads were empty so i decided to have a little fun with the car. at around 70, i put it in third and went WOT. at redline, i shifted into 4th and suddenly there was a loud pop. I instinctly threw the clutch back in and put it in neutral. my friend laughed and told me i missed 4th. i told him i didnt think so. I put it in 6th and it caught for a second, then made a grinding noise and free revved. i dropped it in 5th, same deal. got to the side of the road going through each gear as i got over, they all do this. If i let off the clutch slightly and get on the gas very slightly, just enough for it to start catching, the car will moves a little, but anything more than that and it makes a nasty grinding noise from around the clutch/trans area and stops moving. I had it towed home, and am in the process of taking the trans out.

I ordered an ls7 clutch and flywheel, guessing the clutch may be the issue, and either way, while the trans is out i may as well replace the clutch with something a little more potent. My question is, judging by what i said happened, does this seem to be the issue?

Also, I have the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and and a pilot bearing. I assumed the clutch kit would come with an alignment tool and a throwout bearing but i suppose not. Aside from these things, is there anything else I will need to do the clutch? Anyone have any tips, tricks, advice on removal of trans, clutch, and reinstallation etc? this crap is kind of a headache compared to few other clutches i have done before in my opinion. Thanks in advance!

ElChiefWS602

iTrader: (1)

I would add a slave, master cyl. (Tick if you have the $$$) and remote bleeder to your parts list. Check your rear main seal (they are $20), I always replace mine when I drop the clutch and trans. I would add a new rubber tranny mount and a poly torque arm mount.

Check your trans fluid when you drain it. If has particles in it you probably have some internal damage. Another step I would take since the trans is out is to remove the tailshaft housing and check the magnets. If there are chunks of metal on them you have a problem.

Removal tips.

Tools:

1. Long extensions
2. Swivel sockets
3. Fly wheel holding tool
4. Trans jack (harbor freight and summit sell the floor type)
5. Pilot bearing puller (rent from Autozone)

Stuff I remove:

1. Torque arm
2. Y-pipe (optional but gives a lot of room)
3. Console
4. Shifter
5. All electrical connections
6. Driveshaft
7. Trans cross member

This is just a quick summary.

Let us know if you have questions.

2kblackgtp

iTrader: (12)

Here is a dumb question. Is there a specific reason for tacking a master and slave cylinder to that list? The car only has 60k on it, and has the newer style slave. I am kind of pressed for time on getting the car back together, the money isn't the problem. Would it be a good idea to just get a master and slave from autozone or pep boys or something? I am selling my other car friday and need this car for work by monday.. So shipping time on parts plays a factor.

Jon5212

iTrader: (2)

This is not a clutch issue, you blew something up in the transmission.
edit: At least everything you mentioned I bet 99% its the transmission.

ElChiefWS602

iTrader: (1)

60k is a lot of miles on stock hydraulics. I did my first clutch swap at approx. 28k miles. Didn't change the hydraulics and it never shifted right. Peddle would stick floor and all those other problems you hear about. At a minimum I would change the slave, pretty standard when doing a clutch.

2kblackgtp

iTrader: (12)

Do you have a guess at what in the transmission failed? I definately didn't want to hear that cause I've been fearing it bad.

Also, I called the dealer and they said for the 5.7 there are 2 throw out bearings, one is 30 somethin mm and thr other is 60 something. Anyone have any insight as to which one is correct? He claims I couldn't know unless I measure the old one

Jon5212

iTrader: (2)

As far as I know there is only 1 pilot bearing for the LS1, should come with the clutch kit. As far as what in the transmission failed I'm not sure, but if the transmission was fine and the clutch was gone it should go into gear and not grind. The clutch would just make noise.

2kblackgtp

iTrader: (12)

Throw out bearing. The pilot bearing didn't come with the kit but I knew to buy it anyway. The throwout bearing is what the guy is saying there are 2 different sizes of...
It doesn't grind putting it into gear, its when I start disengaging the clutch. Maybe its possible I stripped the splines of the clutch? I'm really at a loss and hoping nothing is wrong with the trans.

FST SS

I had the same problem when my clutch went out. It would go in gear but make a lot of grinding noise and not move when I let the clutch out. i would change the master cylinder with a Tick unit but you can do that down the road if you don't have time now but with everything apart it would be easier to put the remote bleeder line on now.

2kblackgtp

iTrader: (12)

That is very reassuring to hear. thank you. This will be stupid but what does an adjustable master cylinder do? I personally dont know how i feel about it because its more for me to tinker with and screw up on my car...

FST SS

have you ever ran your car at WOT through the gears and get to 4th and try and shift into 4th and the clutch pedal will not disingauge the clutch? A Tick adj. master cylinder will let more hydraulic fluid flow to the slave cylinder to disingauge the clutch faster. I think I explained it right.

Jon5212

iTrader: (2)

Yup I read your post wrong. I only know of 1 throw out bearing for the LS1, didn't know there were different ones. You really just need to drop the transmission out and look at it. But if the noise is when you start taking your foot off the clutch pedal in gear its only one of two things. Either your clutch disc broke, or your transmission is broke. Especially if the car is not wanting to move. Try this... what does it do if you leave it in neutral and you let the clutch pedal out all the way?

2kblackgtp

iTrader: (12)

Well, I got in touch with tick performance today and got an adjustable master, slave with a to bearing, and remote bleeder line. So no more worries about the correct throw out bearing... and i'd just like to say, the guys at tick performance are awesome!

I'm not sure what it does right now, cause i didnt try it before and i've already got the trans fluid drained so i dont want to start the car = / at least i know that if it is the trans, i still have a pretty nice clutch setup lol

I have all the tranny to bellhousing bolts off but i cant get the trans off for the life of me, it wont even budge after beating it with a rubber deadblow hammer, and cant reach the topmost bellhousing bolts. I'm at a total standstill. anyone have any ideas?

brianfromhawaii

iTrader: (3)

umm the tranny should kinda tilt down with the engine, get an impact wrench with a wobley end on it and zip them off

2kblackgtp

iTrader: (12)

hate to say it but the tranny and motor arent tilting much, maybe 2 or 3 inches. should i loosen the motor mounts maybe? I am kind of hesitant to do this though cause my luck the motor and trans will drop out together on my face ha ha

what confuses me is i still have stock motor mounts, if they were poly i would understand...

ElChiefWS602

iTrader: (1)

To get the top 2 bolts get a set of long extensions (2'and 3') and some swivel sockets. Did you remove the y-pipe? It is not necessary but it gives a lot more room. The first time getting those top 2 bolts is tough.

See next post first.

ElChiefWS602

iTrader: (1)

AM I understanding this right? You have all the trans to bell houisng bolts off?

If that is the case and you can't get the trans to seperate spray some penetrating oil where the 2 parts meet, especially by the dowels. Let it sit for a while and come and wiggle the heck out of it. Repeat as necessary.

A tip for reinstalling it to put anti seize on the dowels.

Leave the bell housing to motor bolts in until you get the tranny out.

2kblackgtp

iTrader: (12)

the dowels were stuck in there because of some corrosion. I finally pulled it and checked the tranny, it appears to be ok. The clutch however is messed up pretty hard from what I see. I feel alot better about knowing this

Black35thz28

whats the update?