JoeMack

iTrader: (18)

Had to pull the trans the other day and found the Textralia in this condition. I'm pretty sure that with the power level that I am at it should not be looking like this. I didn't' even get a chance to get one full run at the track (motor broke) with the current power level (sig). Was at 425 hp. Should Textralia cover this under warranty?

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

I pulled mine at 5-6k and it was worse than that. It was worn to the point that the rivets were rubbing on the flywheel, and I have much less power than you. This has happened to several others as well and to answer your question, no they will not cover anything. They might offer to sell you new parts for it though

SOMSS1LE

My buddy just had to replace his as well, these clutches had big praise in the beginning but now everyone is having this same issue.

purdueranger

iTrader: (11)

I have 9k miles on mine and it's doing fine on the bottle.

Are you guys slipping the clutch at all when you take off?

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

It's possible they just had a bad batch, or several. But lately it seems like they have a bigger problem. Most of the people that say their Tex is still fine haven't taken it out and checked it. Most of the time they will still perform well even when the disk looks toasted. I just took a hair of material off a few rivets and put it back in. Though I wouldn't advise anyone else do that, it's right at 10k today and still cutting 1.6 60's and shifting flawlessly.

hugger1975

iTrader: (3)

I have had zero problems.
Call them, they were always very fair.

JoeMack

iTrader: (18)

I am in contact with them now.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Good luck. I am curious to know how my used Tex will hold up at the track.

Your clutch doesn't look bad at all to me.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

Hope you have better luck then I did. They claimed to be the most rebuildable, but I could never find anyone that would sell rebuild parts or new clutch discs. The online store that sold my buddy the clutch swore he didn't so he couldn't be held accountable. Went back to Spec and have never been happier! Great customer service and they are always willing to help you out AFTER the sale

99TransAmLS16Spd

iTrader: (8)

That clutch doesn't look too bad. Mine was worse at 3k, I had a little more power though.

Good luck with everything on that. Textralia's customer service in the U.S. is sub par right now. It's unfortunate, because the Australian parent seems to be good people, and helped me out.

Also, keep in mind that the clutch brand new has very little friction material-to-rivet height difference.

LS1ROPER

iTrader: (21)

Took my Tex down this weekend behind stock engine looks good at 2500 miles no complaints. Hopefully I will say the same when I my 408 project going this weekend.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I have a Tex oz-700 Z-grip that runs perfect. These clutches seem to allow a larger window of engagement and people who are not as good at driving to slip it a bit more then Spec or a RAM persay.

IMO of seeing over 10 clutches of various brands, that looks like a driving issue, not a power issue.

If I do take mine out I will have pics. I drive a manual car every day so I never get rusty and it has been over a year in the car (maybe 6k due to winters and being sick) So I will be interested to see as well.

RsSean

iTrader: (27)

Wow that sucks big ones. Sorry to hear I hope they work with you

Pulse_GTO

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to see what your clutch looks like. I hope thay can take care of you.

thechef

iTrader: (13)

most clutch problems are really driver error, most of these aftermarket clutches are NOT ment to be slipped its a quick release, it is very painfull to witness people driving these cars when i see them out on the road or leaving the shop

JoeMack

iTrader: (18)

UPDATE

Textralia asked me to measure the total thickness of the disc. I got from between .297-.301. They said, brand new, they are .314. So I removed between .013-.017 in 6k miles and should be able to go down to .267. They also said, that do to the friction material they use, my flywheel looks normal. I guess I will be putting it back in and keep my fingers crossed and wallet ready.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

if I ever take mine out i will measure mine.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the update, OP. Sounds like you're good for a while longer. I will agree with Chef that from what I've seen (including my own personal experience when I first bought a stick car however many years back), driver error - ie slipping and/or riding the clutch too much - is the major contributor to premature clutch wear and failure, especially when you're riding or slipping the clutch too slowly on launches at the track and on the street. These aftermarket clutches are NOTHING like the OEM clutches that come in the cars and are not meant to be ridden or even slipped very much. Quick releases on the launch will give you a LOT more life out of your clutch.

Another contributing factor to premature clutch wear is an improperly disengaging clutch/hydraulic setup, especially on these cars. If your clutch isn't disengaging properly, and MANY people have this issue, then you can waive goodbye to any sort of normal clutch life.

Bottom line, even in a setup that's working properly, these aftermarket clutches are made to handle big power/torque and hard launches, NOT to be driven anything like a stock clutch is. If you are driving the car and/or launching it even close to the same way as you did your stock clutch, you will burn it out within a few thousand miles. I've done it, I've seen it done, and I've learned from these experiences with great success so far.

Oh yeah, and I currently have a Textralia OZ700 Z-grip that I beat the hell out of on the street AND and on the track. It's got about 10,000 miles on it right now, probably 50-60 hard, hot-lapped track launches (4500-6000 RPM on bias-ply ET Streets in a full weight, 3,500 pound car), and the other 10,000 miles are from hard driving on the street. I bought this car and beefed it up to beat the hell out of it and I do. 10,000 miles (knock on wood so far) is already impressive considering how much I race it and it still grabs as hard as day one; never a soft pedal or hint of slip. My brother went for a ride two nights ago and couldn't believe how hard the clutch grabbed on some speed shifts to third and fourth on the highway.

REALLY pay attention to how quickly you release the clutch when driving and racing it. It will make all the difference if your setup is functioning and disengaging properly. It takes some getting used to but it's worth it if you don't want to be pulling the trans and buying a new clutch every 5,000 miles.

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

I've got about 6k on mine too, probably 50+ passes and 5 bottles worth of spray passes. Its a great street clutch. Has held up fairly well at the track, mostly 1.6 60's a few 1.5's when conditions are good. It does now slip going into 4th at the top end about 50% of the time if I make a pass on the spray. Does fine on a motor pass.

I'll probably yank it this winter for a new clutch and give the Tick master a shot, along with a few other things (blowproof bellhousing for one). Have to remember to take pictures.

But thus far I'd say it really is a great street clutch, been running it since summer of '05 when my Spec 3 welded to the flywheel at the track with a fraction of the abuse the Tex has taken. I just think maybe the 700 lb*ft rating of the OZ is a bit optimistic, as I'm making ~550ish on the 100 shot of the spray.

THENASCAR

iTrader: (19)

lots of hot spots on it, almost looks like you ride the clutch or it was staying engaged sucks man hope it all works out