big plans for my z28- any input appreciated
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big plans for my z28- any input appreciated
Hey guys, I'm kinda new here, long time lurker, but never really had much money to mod my car, but I'm doing a little better now and want to make my car sweet, and hopefully hit 11s in the 1/4.
I have my smog check in September for my 2001 Z28 M6, after that it's time to do the headers/cam/heads.
Current stuff: SLP Dual/Dual, Revalved Bilsteins, Eibach Pros, BMR Sway Bars, 17" Chrome ZR1s, powdercoated calipers, drilled powerstop rotors, limo tint......very light stuff....
What I have planned:
Good paint job-black, different from stock color, I know it will be big money
New Rear End-probably a 9", no clue what kind to get yet, with 4.10s
Headers-want something with good clearance, pacesetters maybe if they are cool
Clutch-not sure what to get, have stocker with 88K miles
Cam and Heads-dunno what to get but I want to make sure it will be able to pass smog in a couple years, and yes I'll just put stock exhaust manifolds back on for the test (unless I find a smog guy by then....)
Suspension-konis, strano springs, strano swaybars, LCAs, maybe a K-member
Rollcage
I have ideas on what I want, but I'm still researching and havn't decided on anything except the color of my car, and the suspension stuff.
So I dunno what to do first, I'd love to have a clean paint job, but not sure if it would be wise to do all the mechanical stuff first? Would it be wise to put the rollcage in before I paint the car?
BTW, I am also considering just saving up for a downpayment on a Corvette, but I really like the 4th gen F-body and I can see myself keeping my baby forever. If I go for the Corvette I'd probably just garage my Z28 and restore it down the road.
Thanks for any advice/input. Speak to me.
I have my smog check in September for my 2001 Z28 M6, after that it's time to do the headers/cam/heads.
Current stuff: SLP Dual/Dual, Revalved Bilsteins, Eibach Pros, BMR Sway Bars, 17" Chrome ZR1s, powdercoated calipers, drilled powerstop rotors, limo tint......very light stuff....
What I have planned:
Good paint job-black, different from stock color, I know it will be big money
New Rear End-probably a 9", no clue what kind to get yet, with 4.10s
Headers-want something with good clearance, pacesetters maybe if they are cool
Clutch-not sure what to get, have stocker with 88K miles
Cam and Heads-dunno what to get but I want to make sure it will be able to pass smog in a couple years, and yes I'll just put stock exhaust manifolds back on for the test (unless I find a smog guy by then....)
Suspension-konis, strano springs, strano swaybars, LCAs, maybe a K-member
Rollcage
I have ideas on what I want, but I'm still researching and havn't decided on anything except the color of my car, and the suspension stuff.
So I dunno what to do first, I'd love to have a clean paint job, but not sure if it would be wise to do all the mechanical stuff first? Would it be wise to put the rollcage in before I paint the car?
BTW, I am also considering just saving up for a downpayment on a Corvette, but I really like the 4th gen F-body and I can see myself keeping my baby forever. If I go for the Corvette I'd probably just garage my Z28 and restore it down the road.
Thanks for any advice/input. Speak to me.
#5
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What I have planned:
Good paint job-black, different from stock color, I know it will be big money
New Rear End-probably a 9", no clue what kind to get yet, with 4.10s-I highly reccomend the Midwest Chassis 9", especially if you are trying to save weight, its also great because you have all stock suspension which will all need upgraded, Eric(Owner of Midwest) gives killer discounts on adjustable rear suspension and driveshafts when you purchase his setup.
Headers-want something with good clearance, pacesetters maybe if they are cool-Pacesetters are good but if it were me id go with the Edelbrocks, its a much better header for only a bit more money.
Clutch-not sure what to get, have stocker with 88K milesI tried the Centerforce and hated it, I now a a Textralia and like it alot, soon will be installing a Tick Master cylinder to make it even better.
Cam and Heads-dunno what to get but I want to make sure it will be able to pass smog in a couple years, and yes I'll just put stock exhaust manifolds back on for the test (unless I find a smog guy by then....)You are honestly better off finding a smog guy, its really not finding em, its paying for them. I made good numbers with my PRCs but if I had it to do over again id go with either Trick FLows or AFRs and added the FAST 92mm later, a mid 230s cam can easily be tuned for good street manners and make good numbers, check out my setup.
Suspension-konis, strano springs, strano swaybars, LCAs, maybe a K-memberI like the strano springs alot but its not the only way to make an F body handle well, 02NBMWS6 has BMR springs with konis and his car rides like a dream
RollcageWolfe makes nice roll bars but keep in mind to make it NHRA legal you need to weld in the center bar and loose most use of the backseat. Im going for a Mild steel 6pt because its alot cheaper and I can weld it in myself. If you are going to paint it though you could pull all the interior out and install it then your rollbar will match the car perfectly.
Good paint job-black, different from stock color, I know it will be big money
New Rear End-probably a 9", no clue what kind to get yet, with 4.10s-I highly reccomend the Midwest Chassis 9", especially if you are trying to save weight, its also great because you have all stock suspension which will all need upgraded, Eric(Owner of Midwest) gives killer discounts on adjustable rear suspension and driveshafts when you purchase his setup.
Headers-want something with good clearance, pacesetters maybe if they are cool-Pacesetters are good but if it were me id go with the Edelbrocks, its a much better header for only a bit more money.
Clutch-not sure what to get, have stocker with 88K milesI tried the Centerforce and hated it, I now a a Textralia and like it alot, soon will be installing a Tick Master cylinder to make it even better.
Cam and Heads-dunno what to get but I want to make sure it will be able to pass smog in a couple years, and yes I'll just put stock exhaust manifolds back on for the test (unless I find a smog guy by then....)You are honestly better off finding a smog guy, its really not finding em, its paying for them. I made good numbers with my PRCs but if I had it to do over again id go with either Trick FLows or AFRs and added the FAST 92mm later, a mid 230s cam can easily be tuned for good street manners and make good numbers, check out my setup.
Suspension-konis, strano springs, strano swaybars, LCAs, maybe a K-memberI like the strano springs alot but its not the only way to make an F body handle well, 02NBMWS6 has BMR springs with konis and his car rides like a dream
RollcageWolfe makes nice roll bars but keep in mind to make it NHRA legal you need to weld in the center bar and loose most use of the backseat. Im going for a Mild steel 6pt because its alot cheaper and I can weld it in myself. If you are going to paint it though you could pull all the interior out and install it then your rollbar will match the car perfectly.
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Midwest Chassis 9" with truetrac and 3:70 gear
TFS 215 or AFR 205 heads (budget vs. power has allot to do with the purchase of heads)
a good 224 cam (224 cams have passed smog) TR and AFR make a nice 224 cam
Pacesetter headers are good, Kooks and ARH are the best
LS7 clutches are a popular cheaper upgrade.
FAST 92mm intake manifold
Nick Williams 92mm TB
i have and like my Strano/Koni setup
why are you getting a rollcage?
TFS 215 or AFR 205 heads (budget vs. power has allot to do with the purchase of heads)
a good 224 cam (224 cams have passed smog) TR and AFR make a nice 224 cam
Pacesetter headers are good, Kooks and ARH are the best
LS7 clutches are a popular cheaper upgrade.
FAST 92mm intake manifold
Nick Williams 92mm TB
i have and like my Strano/Koni setup
why are you getting a rollcage?
#9
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If I were to build a head/cam camaro, I would port the stock 241s to flow around 300cfm.
Get a nice 232/234 cam with around .610 lift. Get some edelbrock stepped headers. Make a nice y-pipe with a flowmaster merge to a 4" magnaflow race muffler. Get a textralia, and a 9'' rear. I would keep the LS6 manifold. Get an FTP lid, port the stock throttle body, and do a speed density tune.
That's pretty much it! Plus people will think its only a cam only car.
Get a nice 232/234 cam with around .610 lift. Get some edelbrock stepped headers. Make a nice y-pipe with a flowmaster merge to a 4" magnaflow race muffler. Get a textralia, and a 9'' rear. I would keep the LS6 manifold. Get an FTP lid, port the stock throttle body, and do a speed density tune.
That's pretty much it! Plus people will think its only a cam only car.
#10
i make 453 whp @ 6600 rpm in my H/C 346.it is forged bottom end and professional products 85mm intake with stock ported TB.
in my full weight m6 car with 4.10 gears i have bested a 11.43 @ 119 on motor. 1.61 60'
they are ported 243s with stock size valves and a custom speced camshaft.
i also run cats and pass smog without issue.
in my full weight m6 car with 4.10 gears i have bested a 11.43 @ 119 on motor. 1.61 60'
they are ported 243s with stock size valves and a custom speced camshaft.
i also run cats and pass smog without issue.
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Most important thing is set a goal and have a plan for the car. Decide what you want out of it. Are you trying to build a full weight street car, stripped down drag car, something in between? Do you plan on going to the track often, Is this your only transportation, do you drive 40 miles to work everyday? Plan on sticking with the stock bottom end. Is boost or N20 in your future?
Buying parts twice sucks, establish what you want out of the car and what you'll be using it for then we can help you develop a plan of action and prioritize your mod list
Buying parts twice sucks, establish what you want out of the car and what you'll be using it for then we can help you develop a plan of action and prioritize your mod list
#13
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I was thinking LS6 heads would work good, I guess there must be a stage 3? 2.5 sounds lovely enough if it can pass smog.
For a cam I was thinking a 224, 114 lsa, like the thunder racing cam. Heard that was a great overall cam that can pass smog.
What kind of rear-suspension parts do I need? I forgot to say I already have an adjustable panhard rod but don't care if I need a new one. Probably need the lower control arms.
About the smog guy-I'm not even going to try asking anyone here yet, because that would seem shady. Maybe eventually I can meet some of you guys in real life. Check out your cars, go for a ride, see your cars feel....2 years+ should be enough time to find a 'smog guy'.
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Midwest Chassis 9" with truetrac and 3:70 gear
TFS 215 or AFR 205 heads (budget vs. power has allot to do with the purchase of heads)
a good 224 cam (224 cams have passed smog) TR and AFR make a nice 224 cam
Pacesetter headers are good, Kooks and ARH are the best
LS7 clutches are a popular cheaper upgrade.
FAST 92mm intake manifold
Nick Williams 92mm TB
i have and like my Strano/Koni setup
why are you getting a rollcage?
TFS 215 or AFR 205 heads (budget vs. power has allot to do with the purchase of heads)
a good 224 cam (224 cams have passed smog) TR and AFR make a nice 224 cam
Pacesetter headers are good, Kooks and ARH are the best
LS7 clutches are a popular cheaper upgrade.
FAST 92mm intake manifold
Nick Williams 92mm TB
i have and like my Strano/Koni setup
why are you getting a rollcage?
Gear ratio? Why do you suggest 3.70? I will consider that. My friend had 3.73s in his pretty much stock Formula and it felt A LOT better than my 3.42s.
So those 2 different heads you suggest- how much of a power difference with all other mods being the same for both setups? And the big question, will the big flower pass smog?
Headers- the most important thing to me is clearance. If the Kooks or AHR had the best clearance, I'd get them.
LS7 Clutch is one of my top considerations for clutch, because it would hopefully have good feel.
The intake manifold is something I wasn't planning on doing. Smog legal?
I want a roll cage because I am thinking it would stiffen the chassis up. And for safety reasons. When no one's around on the road, my car gets driven hard. I may do the 5-point seatbelt. But I'm not sure I'm doing the roll cage, just thinking about it.
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If I were to build a head/cam camaro, I would port the stock 241s to flow around 300cfm.
Get a nice 232/234 cam with around .610 lift. Get some edelbrock stepped headers. Make a nice y-pipe with a flowmaster merge to a 4" magnaflow race muffler. Get a textralia, and a 9'' rear. I would keep the LS6 manifold. Get an FTP lid, port the stock throttle body, and do a speed density tune.
That's pretty much it! Plus people will think its only a cam only car.
Get a nice 232/234 cam with around .610 lift. Get some edelbrock stepped headers. Make a nice y-pipe with a flowmaster merge to a 4" magnaflow race muffler. Get a textralia, and a 9'' rear. I would keep the LS6 manifold. Get an FTP lid, port the stock throttle body, and do a speed density tune.
That's pretty much it! Plus people will think its only a cam only car.
Another vote for textralia clutch. It's between that and the LS7 right now, that could change.
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Interesting, so can the tfs 215 heads pass smog?
I was thinking LS6 heads would work good, I guess there must be a stage 3? 2.5 sounds lovely enough if it can pass smog.
For a cam I was thinking a 224, 114 lsa, like the thunder racing cam. Heard that was a great overall cam that can pass smog.
I was thinking LS6 heads would work good, I guess there must be a stage 3? 2.5 sounds lovely enough if it can pass smog.
For a cam I was thinking a 224, 114 lsa, like the thunder racing cam. Heard that was a great overall cam that can pass smog.
most companies that offer a stage 3 ls6 head, usually have larger seats installed with 2.05+ intake valves 1.58+ exhaust valves...coupled with an aftermarket camshaft, the engine is not going to be very smog friendly at low rpms...
a cam like the usual 224 style grinds will pass smog no problem... however if you are thinking about ls6 heads i would reccomend a stock valve size or evn a 2.02 valve... a cam of that size is going to peak somewhat early..an oversize valve is not necessary at that point...
even if you dont port the head, ls6s respond very well to a good valve job, bowl blend... you can easily get 270 cfm on the intake size with the valve job and stock valve...
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i make 453 whp @ 6600 rpm in my H/C 346.it is forged bottom end and professional products 85mm intake with stock ported TB.
in my full weight m6 car with 4.10 gears i have bested a 11.43 @ 119 on motor. 1.61 60'
they are ported 243s with stock size valves and a custom speced camshaft.
i also run cats and pass smog without issue.
in my full weight m6 car with 4.10 gears i have bested a 11.43 @ 119 on motor. 1.61 60'
they are ported 243s with stock size valves and a custom speced camshaft.
i also run cats and pass smog without issue.
Most important thing is set a goal and have a plan for the car. Decide what you want out of it. Are you trying to build a full weight street car, stripped down drag car, something in between? Do you plan on going to the track often, Is this your only transportation, do you drive 40 miles to work everyday? Plan on sticking with the stock bottom end. Is boost or N20 in your future?
Buying parts twice sucks, establish what you want out of the car and what you'll be using it for then we can help you develop a plan of action and prioritize your mod list
Buying parts twice sucks, establish what you want out of the car and what you'll be using it for then we can help you develop a plan of action and prioritize your mod list
I want to go to the track once in a while- maybe a few times a year.
It's my only car, but will save some money to buy a beater if it becomes necessary.
I drive about 15 miles to work everyday, hit some light-moderate traffic for about 5-10 minutes on the freeway.
The guy above you reminded me that I may be upgrading the bottom end. I like the idea of nitrous, and understand the engine is going to need to be stronger. I don't ever plan on boost- but nitrous, yes.
I don't know if this post is clear enough for you or anyone to figure out what I want. Thanks for the help, and making me think about what kind of car I want it to be.
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Why do you have a Camaro if you like the Trans Am?
#19
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That 9" sounds good if it's light. I want my car to be light as possible, and may get some lightweight suspension stuff too, eventually. K-member, upper A-arms.
What kind of rear-suspension parts do I need? I forgot to say I already have an adjustable panhard rod but don't care if I need a new one. Probably need the lower control arms.
About the smog guy-I'm not even going to try asking anyone here yet, because that would seem shady. Maybe eventually I can meet some of you guys in real life. Check out your cars, go for a ride, see your cars feel....2 years+ should be enough time to find a 'smog guy'.
What kind of rear-suspension parts do I need? I forgot to say I already have an adjustable panhard rod but don't care if I need a new one. Probably need the lower control arms.
About the smog guy-I'm not even going to try asking anyone here yet, because that would seem shady. Maybe eventually I can meet some of you guys in real life. Check out your cars, go for a ride, see your cars feel....2 years+ should be enough time to find a 'smog guy'.
The Midwest 9" weighs the same without oil as the 10 bolt with oil, so you are talking gaining a few lbs., its the best deal and its well built.
Come out to our meets sometime, GM Muscle meets every couple weeks in Corona, alot of the guys in the club have different setups, I have a H/C/I/9" T/A, Wicked Muscle has a Cam and intake car that moves pretty good, RZuff has a badass blown 62x+ rwhp C5 vette, 02NBMWS6 has a built 403ci SS, CamaroJunky has a bolt on SS with n20 that moves pretty good, Geovette has just about the only auto car that shows up all the time and runs pretty quick 10.70 on the bottle. Lots of setups and we are all willing to help out.
#20
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Another Midwest Chassis 9" vote. Looks like that's my final decision.
Gear ratio? Why do you suggest 3.70? I will consider that. My friend had 3.73s in his pretty much stock Formula and it felt A LOT better than my 3.42s.
I have 4.10s and love it, gets it off the line quicker on the track.Its not bad once you get used to it, but yea, Midwest is the way to go!
So those 2 different heads you suggest- how much of a power difference with all other mods being the same for both setups? And the big question, will the big flower pass smog?
AFR and Trick flow are both good, keep in mind with trick flow you need to run valve cover spacers and MUST buy aftermarket roller rockers.
Headers- the most important thing to me is clearance. If the Kooks or AHR had the best clearance, I'd get them.
I have ARHs and they have awesome clearence but the Edelbrocks have good clearence and are a bit cheaper, I probably would have bought them if I had known how nice they were.
LS7 Clutch is one of my top considerations for clutch, because it would hopefully have good feel.
Not sure if the LS7 will hold with h/c/i and nitrous, you are talking close to 600rwhp on a 125 shot, but you cant beat the price of that clutch.
The intake manifold is something I wasn't planning on doing. Smog legal?
May be better sticking with an LS6, its stock but if you sand off the FAST logo and paint it with semi-gloss alot of smog shops probably wouldnt know the difference.
I want a roll cage because I am thinking it would stiffen the chassis up. And for safety reasons. When no one's around on the road, my car gets driven hard. I may do the 5-point seatbelt. But I'm not sure I'm doing the roll cage, just thinking about it.
Its a good idea, just adds some weight. If you were to put some T/A seats you could just loop the harness under the headrest, and they are more comfortable.
Gear ratio? Why do you suggest 3.70? I will consider that. My friend had 3.73s in his pretty much stock Formula and it felt A LOT better than my 3.42s.
I have 4.10s and love it, gets it off the line quicker on the track.Its not bad once you get used to it, but yea, Midwest is the way to go!
So those 2 different heads you suggest- how much of a power difference with all other mods being the same for both setups? And the big question, will the big flower pass smog?
AFR and Trick flow are both good, keep in mind with trick flow you need to run valve cover spacers and MUST buy aftermarket roller rockers.
Headers- the most important thing to me is clearance. If the Kooks or AHR had the best clearance, I'd get them.
I have ARHs and they have awesome clearence but the Edelbrocks have good clearence and are a bit cheaper, I probably would have bought them if I had known how nice they were.
LS7 Clutch is one of my top considerations for clutch, because it would hopefully have good feel.
Not sure if the LS7 will hold with h/c/i and nitrous, you are talking close to 600rwhp on a 125 shot, but you cant beat the price of that clutch.
The intake manifold is something I wasn't planning on doing. Smog legal?
May be better sticking with an LS6, its stock but if you sand off the FAST logo and paint it with semi-gloss alot of smog shops probably wouldnt know the difference.
I want a roll cage because I am thinking it would stiffen the chassis up. And for safety reasons. When no one's around on the road, my car gets driven hard. I may do the 5-point seatbelt. But I'm not sure I'm doing the roll cage, just thinking about it.
Its a good idea, just adds some weight. If you were to put some T/A seats you could just loop the harness under the headrest, and they are more comfortable.