About to rebuild my front calipers...have a few questions about beeding and removal
11-28-2003, 09:39 PM
#1
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About to rebuild my front calipers...have a few questions about beeding and removal I have never bleed brakes before and certainly have never rebuilt a brake caliper but my dust boot is torn so I have to get this done. Besides, my rotors are warped again (power slots) and no time like the winter to start on projects.
Is there anyway to remove the caliper, rebuild it, then reconnect the caliper and bleed the brakes by pumping the pedal with the only fluid being lost from the quick disconnect and turning them off?
I am clueless here and having abs doesn't help set my mind at ease.
Do I need to purchase a power bleeder before I start? I want to do this correctly the first time.
After a few searches I can tell this is not a topic often discussed so any help is appreciated.
Eric Barger
www.installuniversity.com
Is there anyway to remove the caliper, rebuild it, then reconnect the caliper and bleed the brakes by pumping the pedal with the only fluid being lost from the quick disconnect and turning them off?
I am clueless here and having abs doesn't help set my mind at ease.
Do I need to purchase a power bleeder before I start? I want to do this correctly the first time.
After a few searches I can tell this is not a topic often discussed so any help is appreciated.
Eric Barger
www.installuniversity.com
11-29-2003, 06:09 PM
#2
Have you ever heard of a site called www.installuniversity.com?
Once you get the caliper reinstalled, open the bleeder screws and let them gravity bleed for a while. DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY. KEEP IT TOPPED OFF TILL YOU SEE SOLID FLUID RUNNING FROM THE BLEEDER SCREWS.
Close the screws and then bleed the brakes as normal, just to be sure there is no air remaining in the calipers.
Once you get the caliper reinstalled, open the bleeder screws and let them gravity bleed for a while. DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY. KEEP IT TOPPED OFF TILL YOU SEE SOLID FLUID RUNNING FROM THE BLEEDER SCREWS.
Close the screws and then bleed the brakes as normal, just to be sure there is no air remaining in the calipers.
12-06-2003, 07:32 PM
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Thanks for the site address. It rocks. 
Thanks, that cleared up a few things.
How do you know if there is air remaining in the calipers?
Eric
Thanks, that cleared up a few things.
How do you know if there is air remaining in the calipers?
Eric
Originally Posted by mitchntx
Have you ever heard of a site called www.installuniversity.com?
Once you get the caliper reinstalled, open the bleeder screws and let them gravity bleed for a while. DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY. KEEP IT TOPPED OFF TILL YOU SEE SOLID FLUID RUNNING FROM THE BLEEDER SCREWS.
Close the screws and then bleed the brakes as normal, just to be sure there is no air remaining in the calipers.
Once you get the caliper reinstalled, open the bleeder screws and let them gravity bleed for a while. DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY. KEEP IT TOPPED OFF TILL YOU SEE SOLID FLUID RUNNING FROM THE BLEEDER SCREWS.
Close the screws and then bleed the brakes as normal, just to be sure there is no air remaining in the calipers.
12-06-2003, 10:43 PM
#4
If you've gravity bled the brakes, do a normal bleed using pedal pressure, just like any other brake bleed.
Bleeder screw closed
1. Pump the pedal till hard and hold pressure
2. Open bleeder screw till fluid stops running
3. The pedal will slowly fall to the floor. Hold it to the floor.
4 .Close the bleeder screw.
Pepeat steps 1 through 4 till you get no air bubbles.
If you still have air, the pedal will feel mushy and be inconsistent. Just bleed some more.
Bleeder screw closed
1. Pump the pedal till hard and hold pressure
2. Open bleeder screw till fluid stops running
3. The pedal will slowly fall to the floor. Hold it to the floor.
4 .Close the bleeder screw.
Pepeat steps 1 through 4 till you get no air bubbles.
If you still have air, the pedal will feel mushy and be inconsistent. Just bleed some more.
12-08-2003, 05:57 PM
#7
Something Mitch missed (it happens....
).
If there is still air in the calipers or if you are not sure if there is, you may want to give the caliper a moderate "whack" with a rubber mallet (I use a 16 oz Snap on dead blow rubber mallet, but anything soft will usually do) to release any bubbles from the walls of the caliper (think of pouring a drink and having bubbles stuck to the glass....a light tap will knock most of them free).
Good luck!
).If there is still air in the calipers or if you are not sure if there is, you may want to give the caliper a moderate "whack" with a rubber mallet (I use a 16 oz Snap on dead blow rubber mallet, but anything soft will usually do) to release any bubbles from the walls of the caliper (think of pouring a drink and having bubbles stuck to the glass....a light tap will knock most of them free).
Good luck!
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12-08-2003, 08:21 PM
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Thanks guys. That cleared it up Mitch. I just don't want to go and kill myself during this process after I am through. :-)
I am going to order the rebuild kits this week and hopefully start on this next week.
I found my torn dust boot from a visual inspection. I wrote Mitch a long while back asking about it when I found it. I had read his write-up on my website and never thought I did enough to warrant a torn dust boot. WRONG! I only have 29,xxx miles on my Z and have never road raced the car or done any hard repeated braking (minus the 1/4 and 1/8 experiences). Well, torn dust boot!! So I am going to get everything fixed up for next season when I hope to get back into racing a bit more.
I will post some updates along the way.
Eric
I am going to order the rebuild kits this week and hopefully start on this next week.
I found my torn dust boot from a visual inspection. I wrote Mitch a long while back asking about it when I found it. I had read his write-up on my website and never thought I did enough to warrant a torn dust boot. WRONG! I only have 29,xxx miles on my Z and have never road raced the car or done any hard repeated braking (minus the 1/4 and 1/8 experiences). Well, torn dust boot!! So I am going to get everything fixed up for next season when I hope to get back into racing a bit more.
I will post some updates along the way.
Eric