Andros

iTrader: (5)

Initial specs
Caster -- L 6.1 R 5.9
Camber -- L -0.8 R -1.4
Toe -- L 0 R 0.45 Total 0.45

Final specs
Caster -- L 6.1 R 5.9
Camber -- L -0.7 R -1.4
Toe -- L -0.05 R 0 Total -0.05

The guy circled the final camber settings with MAXED OUT next to it and never bothered to tell me why even though I was there looking at him the whole time. I was in a hurry so I didn't bother to ask but as I was driving to school and back home after the car still felt off. Looking at the specs not much was changed, any advice I'd appreciate. Thanks

Mike

m477

"Maxed out" means the camber adjustments are probably at the edge of their adjustment range. I don't know if this means you can't go any more negative (top of the wheels are tilted in as far as they can go) or any more positive (top of the wheels tilted out as far as they can go). You'd have to ask the alignment technician, or compare the numbers he gave you with stock alignment specs in a service manual.

I don't know what kind of mechanism is used to adjust camber on the front of the F-body. On my 240SX, I added aftermarket adjustable camber plates at the top of the front shock towers. These let you tilt the top of the springs/shocks/coilovers in and out by a few degrees. They allow for a lot more camber adjustment than the stock eccentric bolts.

http://images.google.com/images?q=tein+camber+plate

I have a different brand, but these work exactly the same and it was easier to find pictures.

The camber plates help correct for camber changes when lowering the car... and it also lets people run huge wheels on slammed cars by using extreme negative camber to tuck the top of the wheels up under the fenders.

http://images.google.com/images?q=hella+flush
http://images.google.com/images?q=extreme+camber

I'm not a fan of this personally... it's rice... but some import guys are really into it. They don't care about tire wear or handling, it's just for the looks, mainly to show off wheels with very wide lips. To each their own...

TAEnvy

iTrader: (2)

Looks like you got whats called a toe and go.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

With such a difference in left to right camber the car is gonna feel funny, and it might even pull to one side. I always try get left to right settings (camber, caster and toe) relatively close to each other i.e +/-0.1° on the camber caster and almost dead nuts perfect on the toe.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Set up with some autox in mind? Your caster is way higher than what I normally see on a lowered f-body. I can barely get 4 degrees in my car. You have some toe-out which is good autoxing but not for a primarly daily driver as it will make the car pull around and dart a bit.

How does it "feel funny"?

Andros

iTrader: (5)

The car pulls to the left and I always have to counter steer to keep it straight half the time. I got used it but its annoying and this is my first alignment since I put on Sams springs which was a long time ago as my car is too low for the majority of shops around me so I'm left with 1 place about 20 min away from me. I only went to this new shop because I was told they could center my rear since the other place wouldnt do it, Sam knows what Im talking about. The new place didnt center my axle since a guy there said its wasnt off by much.

JamRWS6

Assuming you have an adj. phb this can be done w/ simple hand tools w/ the weight on the axle.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I really don't know I have a good answer. What were your previous specs? Nothing changed in front of the car, right? Did you only have -.7 in the LF before? Wondering if the rack is off, or what.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

He has a Watts link. But the issue is you can't read if the body is off on an alignment rack because it reads the wheels. I can't see the car, I don't know how far off, if at all, it is. All someone needs to do is either slide the axle clamps left or right a touch to square it up if it's off. For that matter if it's close they could just change the length of the arms to move it over a touch. I actually find moving the clamps is easier by loosening them and tapping with a hammer to slide them.

I keep telling Michael he can do it, and that he doesn't need a rack to do it....

JamRWS6

Ahh...NM.

GMRL

Did they give you the thrust angle measurement?
Looks like the guy was lazy and only adjusted the toe.

Andros

iTrader: (5)

The initial camber was only changed by + 0.1 LF, I want the car to drive straight no autox specs for now. I'm gonna go to the other aligment place to see if they can fix this.
The guy working on my car mentioned trying to center the rear more would change the thrust angle and he didnt give me a measurement on it. The rear isnt off by much but I was told he could fix that and he didn't want to.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Having cross-camber will not help the fact the car pulls. Get that squared up. And centering the axle vs. the body won't mess up thrust angle, that's changed by changing the length of the LCA's.

I don't know what to tell you really, but you need to know that the bigger, stiffer, and stickier the tires, and the more camber you have, the more the car will pull around on rutted or crowned roads.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

IMHO, the car pulls left because there's more caster dialed in on that side of the car.

Andros

iTrader: (5)

so i went to the other place and they told me and showed me the camber is maxed out since the car is lowered there is no room to fix the camber. so i guess i have to get umi k member sooner than i thought

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Well, we sell those too, but I'm skeptical they can't get less than -1.4 from the car. My car, lowered with offset bushings in it for MORE negative camber I can only get to -1.8/1.9....

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

I have similar alignment specs on my car and they are maxed out with the adjustments.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Why you guys say maxed out, are you talking to the minimum side?

Now that said, we make Offset Delrin Upper control arm bushings that can be oriented to remove about 1/2 degree, which would put a car @ -1.4 more like -.9.

Or you can do adjustable arms, which we also carry from UMI which you can use to lengthen the upper arm too.

There are options if you have front alignment issues.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

wouldnt adjustable front a-arms fix this? I'm sure you could make the bottoms shorter and the uppers longer just enough to get it closer to zero, if thats what you're after.