Car pops out of 3rd gear
#1
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Car pops out of 3rd gear
I did a search and couldnt really find the answers Im looking for so here goes...
My TA has 85k on the ticker and this past summer ive had problems with it popping out of third gear. It doesnt do it all the time and most times when i put it back in third it will stay there.
What i can tell you is this... I replaced the clutch in May. Everything with that is going great 10k later. In the process of replacing the clutch i lost the two spring shims from my pro 5.0. I have since replaced them with make-shift ones (i dont know if this could be a cause or not).
What should I look at? What can I try in order to fix it?
My TA has 85k on the ticker and this past summer ive had problems with it popping out of third gear. It doesnt do it all the time and most times when i put it back in third it will stay there.
What i can tell you is this... I replaced the clutch in May. Everything with that is going great 10k later. In the process of replacing the clutch i lost the two spring shims from my pro 5.0. I have since replaced them with make-shift ones (i dont know if this could be a cause or not).
What should I look at? What can I try in order to fix it?
#4
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Well, popping out of 3rd gear, AND your shifter is messed up....look at your shifter stops. It might not be going all the way into 3rd gear (hitting stops)
Now, if those are OK, than I would say a key issue, except it is not doing it in 4th, right? So, more than likely it is not a key (possible, but slim).
Could be a fork pad, but same thing...if not doing it in 4th, problay not.
Sooooo, I would lean towards engagement teeth/synchro 3rd gear.
IN ANY case, if it is NOT your shifter stops, tranny needs to be opened up to find out 100%, as this is NOT a hydraulic or clutch issue, I am 100% sure on that.
Now, if those are OK, than I would say a key issue, except it is not doing it in 4th, right? So, more than likely it is not a key (possible, but slim).
Could be a fork pad, but same thing...if not doing it in 4th, problay not.
Sooooo, I would lean towards engagement teeth/synchro 3rd gear.
IN ANY case, if it is NOT your shifter stops, tranny needs to be opened up to find out 100%, as this is NOT a hydraulic or clutch issue, I am 100% sure on that.
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Well, popping out of 3rd gear, AND your shifter is messed up....look at your shifter stops. It might not be going all the way into 3rd gear (hitting stops)
Now, if those are OK, than I would say a key issue, except it is not doing it in 4th, right? So, more than likely it is not a key (possible, but slim).
Could be a fork pad, but same thing...if not doing it in 4th, problay not.
Sooooo, I would lean towards engagement teeth/synchro 3rd gear.
IN ANY case, if it is NOT your shifter stops, tranny needs to be opened up to find out 100%, as this is NOT a hydraulic or clutch issue, I am 100% sure on that.
Now, if those are OK, than I would say a key issue, except it is not doing it in 4th, right? So, more than likely it is not a key (possible, but slim).
Could be a fork pad, but same thing...if not doing it in 4th, problay not.
Sooooo, I would lean towards engagement teeth/synchro 3rd gear.
IN ANY case, if it is NOT your shifter stops, tranny needs to be opened up to find out 100%, as this is NOT a hydraulic or clutch issue, I am 100% sure on that.
Hmmm... sounds expensive
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Well, all depends on how much work YOU can do. If you can yank tranny yourself. Then there is some saved. Most shops charge @ $200-$400 to rebuild, PLUS parts. If ALL you wanted was to replace teh problem, and say WORSE case scenario, 3rd gear synchro AND 3rd gear itself was problem, looking at @ $250 in parts.
But, say it is a Fork Pad... @ $50 for a set of bronze pads, 1-4. (NO reason to go back stock nylon)
Billet keys @ $80 for 3/4
Just synchro @ $120
3rd gear @ $125
So, if you break it down, you could get it fixed rather cheap.
#7
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Here's an article about popping out of gear (link to original): http://www.wcengineering.com/articles/popout.html
Just another idea that I read about.
"External Issues
External issues can be linkage problems or mounting problems. Linkage problems are easy to diagnose and can typically be duplicated. Worn engine/transmission mounts can allow the assembly to move and cause strain on the linkages which can cause the pop-out. This is a little more difficult to find.
Internal Issues
Internal issues are caused by a few items, but the most common one is worn bearings. The helical-cut gears used in production cars put great strain on the bearings. Helical gears are used because they run much more quietly than straight-cut gears. (However, helical gears are much more expensive to produce, so we know cost isn't the factor here.) The two shafts that are engaged with helical-cut gears are always trying to force each other apart along the axis of the shafts. This force is transferred to the bearings and then onto the case. Once the bearings begin to wear, the shafts develop a small amount of play and can then move along their axes. Since the engagement forks and their respective hubs also move in a motion along the axis of the shafts, any movement is going to effect gear engagement. The shift hubs are normally free to move along the shafts and once pushed or pulled into an engagement position they are held in place by only small 'detent' springs. These springs need to apply only a minimal force to hold the hubs in place, but if the shaft was to move along its axis, such as in a 'power on, power off' application, the detent springs have no chance of holding the hubs in place."
Just another idea that I read about.
"External Issues
External issues can be linkage problems or mounting problems. Linkage problems are easy to diagnose and can typically be duplicated. Worn engine/transmission mounts can allow the assembly to move and cause strain on the linkages which can cause the pop-out. This is a little more difficult to find.
Internal Issues
Internal issues are caused by a few items, but the most common one is worn bearings. The helical-cut gears used in production cars put great strain on the bearings. Helical gears are used because they run much more quietly than straight-cut gears. (However, helical gears are much more expensive to produce, so we know cost isn't the factor here.) The two shafts that are engaged with helical-cut gears are always trying to force each other apart along the axis of the shafts. This force is transferred to the bearings and then onto the case. Once the bearings begin to wear, the shafts develop a small amount of play and can then move along their axes. Since the engagement forks and their respective hubs also move in a motion along the axis of the shafts, any movement is going to effect gear engagement. The shift hubs are normally free to move along the shafts and once pushed or pulled into an engagement position they are held in place by only small 'detent' springs. These springs need to apply only a minimal force to hold the hubs in place, but if the shaft was to move along its axis, such as in a 'power on, power off' application, the detent springs have no chance of holding the hubs in place."
Last edited by PewterScreaminMach; 10-01-2009 at 10:43 AM.