Going back to NA LS1
#1
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Going back to NA LS1
I have been kicking the idea around of building a forged 440 LS7 but i think i might be over steeping my means.
My question is what are the limits on a LS1 block and the factory crank.
My end goal would be to make it well into the 500 range at the wheels on a forged NA LS1 through a A4 trans and still have room for the bottle at the track.
Is this goal to high for a 93 octane LS1?
My question is what are the limits on a LS1 block and the factory crank.
My end goal would be to make it well into the 500 range at the wheels on a forged NA LS1 through a A4 trans and still have room for the bottle at the track.
Is this goal to high for a 93 octane LS1?
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And yes i know this is asked a lot and i did try searching for this. I know a LS1 can make 500 horse's all day long on the right set up. That being the key word.
My goal is not just to make good power and get the car into the 10s on motor but build it to be driven on the street and have the old girl last a bit.
Also i dont want to go so big with the bore so that i cant run a decent size shoot at the strip in fear of detonation.
My goal is not just to make good power and get the car into the 10s on motor but build it to be driven on the street and have the old girl last a bit.
Also i dont want to go so big with the bore so that i cant run a decent size shoot at the strip in fear of detonation.
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You can only take an LS1 to 3.905 bore so it is very limited. It would be much easier for you to just get a LQ4/9 block and bore/stroke it to a 402.
Having said that there are a few guys on here running 10's all motor LS1 so......... It doesnt take 500rwhp to hit 10's with a good suspension setup....
Having said that there are a few guys on here running 10's all motor LS1 so......... It doesnt take 500rwhp to hit 10's with a good suspension setup....
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Thanks for the reply. So far the car has gone 11.4 at 117 on boost but i hate that the car is so inconsistent.. With the TTI 60 kit making 9 PSI and a 35 shoot working as a anti lag (not that there is a hole lot on a 60) the car is making right around 480 at the wheels and about 530 torque with 3.42 gears and 3200 stall converter. On a good run we see 1.6 60s on 315 MT DR's.
I like the idea of going back to NA since i have all but maxed out the TTI set up and upgrading it would cost about 3K and i would still be limited in the mid 500 range and still need to rebuild my motor that now has 102K on her.
I like the idea of going back to NA since i have all but maxed out the TTI set up and upgrading it would cost about 3K and i would still be limited in the mid 500 range and still need to rebuild my motor that now has 102K on her.
#7
N/A with factory crank in a 347 through a stalled A4, 500 will be tough. Most guys making those numbers are mostly running M6's. Guys with fast stock cubed cars are usaully super lites so at street weight it will be tough to hit 500 but with a perfect combo it can be done.
Maybe some AFR's or TFS with some extra work, high enough compression like right on the 12:1 which would be pushing it on pump gas, and a custom cam that compliments everything perfectly and you could probably make 500.
Like someone else said though you could build a 383, 402, or 408 and make a pretty easy 500 hp even with gm cast heads.
Maybe some AFR's or TFS with some extra work, high enough compression like right on the 12:1 which would be pushing it on pump gas, and a custom cam that compliments everything perfectly and you could probably make 500.
Like someone else said though you could build a 383, 402, or 408 and make a pretty easy 500 hp even with gm cast heads.
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#8
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It's always easy to make power when you add cubic inches. I built a N/A 402 12 to 1 with tfs heads no mods with a custom cam it makes 572 rwhp and runs 10.20's. How is your budget for this project?
#9
I live in Henderson NC, so welcome to another North Carolina member.