70 Chevelle LS2 Melba Toast
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70 Chevelle LS2 Melba Toast
I have finally started the LS2 MN12 swap in my 70. For those of who don't know Melba Toast..
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSW2RH1GX3U
I have spent the last year or so gathering parts and I got the engine set down in the car today. I have been pouring over other threads and builds and hopefully have learned a thing or two. The engine is a 2006 LS2 from a CTS-v and the transmission is a hybrid. It is the MN12 from the CTS-v but with a GTO main shaft and F-body tail housing courtesy of 85MikeTPI.
The first hiccup I had was that UPS broke my tail housing on the ride back to me...insurance claim denied. It is good to have friends though as a good buddy tig welded it good as new.
I decided a easy way to space the engine up away from the tie rods was to make a couple of plates from 3/16 steel.
Here is the cross member with the mount cut and flipped like many others have done.
Here is the "small" hole in the floor
What was not mentioned in some other threads is the reason for the size of the hole. It is not only to accommodate the T56 but also allow for the engine and trans to swing down and past the center crossmember.
I promise to try and be as proactive as I can when it come to taking and posting pics. I know I poured over all the info I could find before starting my project so it's time to "pay it forward".
Dave
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSW2RH1GX3U
I have spent the last year or so gathering parts and I got the engine set down in the car today. I have been pouring over other threads and builds and hopefully have learned a thing or two. The engine is a 2006 LS2 from a CTS-v and the transmission is a hybrid. It is the MN12 from the CTS-v but with a GTO main shaft and F-body tail housing courtesy of 85MikeTPI.
The first hiccup I had was that UPS broke my tail housing on the ride back to me...insurance claim denied. It is good to have friends though as a good buddy tig welded it good as new.
I decided a easy way to space the engine up away from the tie rods was to make a couple of plates from 3/16 steel.
Here is the cross member with the mount cut and flipped like many others have done.
Here is the "small" hole in the floor
What was not mentioned in some other threads is the reason for the size of the hole. It is not only to accommodate the T56 but also allow for the engine and trans to swing down and past the center crossmember.
I promise to try and be as proactive as I can when it come to taking and posting pics. I know I poured over all the info I could find before starting my project so it's time to "pay it forward".
Dave
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My plans also include LS1 Camaro brakes on all 4 corners. My car has a 12 bolt and I have not decided on what rear gears to run yet. I welcome input on gear selection. I also have tubular upper and lower front control arms and plan on QA1's for the front and for the back I'll do some aftermarket arms and coils. I also am going to do the Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box swap and run hydro boost as well. I can only hope to rack up as many post and comments as others I have read like Stealth71 and Kst8engineer just to name 2. Thanks for all of the info guys and I am sure I'll have as many questions as I have information.
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i love that movie just because it has a 70 chevelle,,haha,, good luck on the build, i wanna see numbers with this thing,,, and i want in ls2 in my 70 chevelle so bad...
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I was thinking 3.55 or so on the gears. I need to work on the notch for the AC compressor. I have a POA valve eliminator kit that cycles the compressor so I am going to attempt to combine the new with the old as far as that goes.
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I am planning to cut the floor pans out of a F-body in the junkyard. I also have a 72 Lemans convertible in the back yard with good front pans.
Tonight I had the engine and trans in and out 3 times to fit the A/C compressor. I notched the frame and boxed it back in. Don't make fun of my welds too much.
I also ended up cutting off half of the mounting boss for the compressor. I figure 3 bolts would hold it fine since the early FWD GM cars only had 3. Also I can just put a shorter bolt in there since I left half of the boss there.
I would really like to be driving this thing in the spring time.
Tonight I had the engine and trans in and out 3 times to fit the A/C compressor. I notched the frame and boxed it back in. Don't make fun of my welds too much.
I also ended up cutting off half of the mounting boss for the compressor. I figure 3 bolts would hold it fine since the early FWD GM cars only had 3. Also I can just put a shorter bolt in there since I left half of the boss there.
I would really like to be driving this thing in the spring time.
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I've got one of 85MikeTPI's built T56 boxes in my Z28 and it's a big improvement over the basic F-Body shifting package. Very smooth, positive shifts, the Vette 3-piece synchros and billet keys work well together.
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That compressor is from the CSTv. My buddy said he ground off the four bosses the compressor sits on to move it 1/4 inch closer in towards the crank. I may end up doing that too. I have what I think is enough clearance but a little more wouldn't hurt.
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The engine mounts are home made (kind of). I bought a set of generic ones from e-bay and they hit the A/C compressor and positioned the engine wrong. I cut the ends off of them and them redrilled and tapped the mount. I used one of the original engine mount holes to locate the forward most hole in the Chevelle engine mount. The part that you saw in the picture on top of the tire is a spacer I made from 3/16 steel to raise the engine up to clear the tie rod ends and give the AC compressor more room.
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I kind of like the Cadillac engine cover, but sadly I won't use it because I need to make a functional cowl induction air cleaner and ducting.
I really need to get some wheels. I hate the rollers I have right now plus they won't fit my LS1 brakes. I think I am going to start out with C5 Z06 wheels or some Coys maybe? I missed a good deal on some Z06 wheels a couple of weeks ago...still looking.
Last edited by Bowtie70SS; 11-02-2009 at 04:50 PM. Reason: I reorganized my pics and busted the links oops
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Went to the local U-pull and pay yard and picked up a Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box for $36 total. I lucked out and ended up finding a unit that had been replaced. I also got a power steering cooler with a return hose built in for $15. I came home and removed the JGC pitman arm and installed the Chevelle one. Turns out that even though the Jeep box is a 96 that the Chevelle steering box bolts work just fine (same threads). The Jeep box is a 12.7 to 1 ratio where the chevelle one is a 16 to 1 . It will offer a better road feel and increased steering response. Also the Jeep box appears to be a little smaller where the lines go on and will leave me a little more room with my Vette bracket setup. Now I need to hit the local hydraulic shop and get some lines made for the hydroboost, cooler and Corvette power steering pump.