BobSS

ok so i have a few questions

1. how much horsepower can the rear end take on an a4?

2. how much horsepower can the 4l60e take before it fails?

3. and if my car's stock rear end (in the area of 330rwhp) can hold the power well, would adding slicks to it add to the chances of the rear end failing upon launch? i have stock stall now but what about a 3200 or say a 3600?

any input is appreciated!

myk

iTrader: (4)

1. Stock power can break it.

2. Stock power can break it.

3. Slicks will cause the car to explode...

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

the rear on the autos tend to be more forgiving then on the m6 cars. but the 10 bolt is still weak and can break by just looking at it wrong. ive had great luck with mine running et streets and a vig3600. rear hasnt snapped yet and i would say its probably done about 50-60 passes

Firehawk853

sometimes people get lucky with the stock rear ends and some don't get so lucky. If it breaks replace it, if it works, run with it.

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

I have full bolt ons with drag radials and so far so good. I know it will go eventually but meanwhile I will have fun with it.

NAAllTheWay

yea like said above, stock power can break both rear end and trans......and WILL break after (x) amount of passes/ (x) amount of abuse....with stock power this will take quite a while....adding horsepower just speeds up the process, the more horse/torque that you add.....the more the process speeds up......(ex) ..300whp=300 launches...400whp=130 launches...500whp=3 launches....... the numbers i just made up are by no means entirely accurate, but an idea....also every rear end is different, one may break on stock hp, while there has been 10 bolts 4l60E's deep into the 10's with no issue. so it just depends....and the more you hook, the more damage you do...300whp on a slick will do more damage than 350whp on crap tires.

Z-Convert

Horsepower doesn't break stuff torque does...

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

The stock 10-bolt will last a long time behind an A4 car, even a high HP A4 car, if you reduce weight and eleminate wheel hop. You can expect many 10 second passes out of that rear if you set the car up properly as described.

The 4L60E is hurt mostly by high rpms, and heat. Horsepower isn't really the killer. A 4L60E will last longer behind a 450rwhp car shifting at 5500rpm than it will behind a 350rwhp car shifting at 6500rpm. If you plan to stay at stock power levels/stock shift rpms and just get a higher stall, (and I'd suggest you add a cooler no matter what your power level), then assuming the trans is working properly now and doesn't already have 100k on it, you should still get many 10s of thousands of miles of *street* use out of it. If you plan to make decent power and raise the shift points, and/or the trans already has 100k+ miles on it, and/or you plan to race it constantly, you'll likely need a rebuild in short order once you start racing the car...even with just a higher stall TC.

PS. Reducing weight will also help the 4L60E live longer. And, if you go with a top quality rebuild (like FLT in Woodale, IL) it'll handle just about anything you can throw at it.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Perfectly quiet rear A4 car. Add DR's + 417rwhp/383 rwtq + 30 1/4 mile passes = noise and metal on magnet at 30k fluid change. The 60E shifts like butter on 2-3/3-4 shifts but still lays down rubber on 1-2 shifts. Just can't decide which to do first tranny or rear....Prolly tranny cause I can baby the rear and don't want any broken hard parts to take out my SS3600 with it....

WhiteOak's LS1

for the tranny- keep the rpms lower(around 6000 max)
for the rear end- stop wheel hop and get a stronger cover

Ive been lucky soo far (fingers crossed)

Ohh and proper maintanence for both helps too