Few questions about my procharger setup...
#1
Few questions about my procharger setup...
Ok so I have stepped into the world of FI. I have always been a all motor/small nitrous shot kinda guy. Well I got bored with the current setup. Even tho it has been trouble free for about a year now with a lot of hard passes and street pulls. But I have recently purchased a D1SC procharger kit. It came with a eBay FMIC, ATI race BPV, upgraded filter, and the 8 rib kit. It didnt come with a SDCE tho. I'm hoping I wont run into to much belt slip. The kit came pullied to make 16psi on a 347. A 3.4 blower pulley, and not to sure what the crank pulley size is. But it measures roughly 7 3/4". How much boost will I be looking at with my set-up I've listed below? And if anyone has any idea what pulley sizes it will take for me to get to 700+hp, lmk please! If I will need new pulley's where can I get them?
Here is a little info on what the setup consist of.
2000 Camaro SS
404 LS2 10.8-1 CR.
254/257 .621/.621 111+2 on LSL lobes
Patriot stage III heads
FAST 92/92
Kooks 1 7/8-2" headers to a 3" Kooks y pipe with a 4" outlet/4"cutout
Here is a little info on what the setup consist of.
2000 Camaro SS
404 LS2 10.8-1 CR.
254/257 .621/.621 111+2 on LSL lobes
Patriot stage III heads
FAST 92/92
Kooks 1 7/8-2" headers to a 3" Kooks y pipe with a 4" outlet/4"cutout
#4
TECH Regular
iTrader: (9)
The Procharger 8 rib crank pulley with a 3.4" pulley already redlines the blower at 6700 RPM. So unless you are shifting significantly below that a smaller pulley would only over spin the blower. Also you will have belt slip issues trying to overspin the blower on the standard 8 rib kit.
With your higher compression I'd say the 3.4 would be more air than you need. I'm around 700 with a 383 and a 3.85" pulley. I know a guy that just did mid 700's with a 347, 3.7" pulley, and meth. Your biggest issue is probably the cam you have bleeding off boost, losing some of the air that could be used to make power.
With your higher compression I'd say the 3.4 would be more air than you need. I'm around 700 with a 383 and a 3.85" pulley. I know a guy that just did mid 700's with a 347, 3.7" pulley, and meth. Your biggest issue is probably the cam you have bleeding off boost, losing some of the air that could be used to make power.
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
http://www.reichardracing.com/
Reichard makes custom pulleys that have more grip than standard pulleys, but also have been reputed to wear out your belt faster.
You can get stock pulleys from Bob at EPP.
You can also get a stock pulley coated by Carbonite Racing. I'm still doing some research on them. Trying to see who's actually running their coated pulleys.
http://www.carbiniteracing.com/
Your balancer pulley diameter is 7.625" if I remember correctly. Hopefully someone else will chime in and confirm that.
You also have to factor in what RPM that head unit is capable of spinning. You take the crank pulley diameter divided by the blower pulley diameter. Then multiply that number by the gear ratio in your head unit(4.10 for D-1SC). Then multiply that number by the max rpm you are going to spin your motor to. The D-1SC has a max impeller speed of 62,000rpm.
So if you take 7.625/3.4 times 4.10 times 6700 you get 61,606rpm.
Reichard makes custom pulleys that have more grip than standard pulleys, but also have been reputed to wear out your belt faster.
You can get stock pulleys from Bob at EPP.
You can also get a stock pulley coated by Carbonite Racing. I'm still doing some research on them. Trying to see who's actually running their coated pulleys.
http://www.carbiniteracing.com/
Your balancer pulley diameter is 7.625" if I remember correctly. Hopefully someone else will chime in and confirm that.
You also have to factor in what RPM that head unit is capable of spinning. You take the crank pulley diameter divided by the blower pulley diameter. Then multiply that number by the gear ratio in your head unit(4.10 for D-1SC). Then multiply that number by the max rpm you are going to spin your motor to. The D-1SC has a max impeller speed of 62,000rpm.
So if you take 7.625/3.4 times 4.10 times 6700 you get 61,606rpm.
Last edited by TurboAv; 01-11-2010 at 08:47 PM.
#6
Damnit! Well do you guys think I will possibly hit my goal of 700hp with the pulley's I have now? If its already maxed out I dont see what else I can do...I just dont see this thing making 16psi with my big motor and free flowing exhaust...Maybe 10 or 12? But will that be enough...
#7
12 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
Prochargers LOVE open exhaust (I know mine does lol). I picked up over 70rwhp with my cut out being opened. I dont know about making 16 psi with the compression of your motor. I think less boost will get you to 700+. Prolly around 10-14ish will get ya there. I made 754rwhp with a 370ci and 3.4 pulley.
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#9
Yeah I know the compression isnt that good for a lot of boost. But I've seen some stock LS7's and LS6/2's pushing 14 or so psi. Surely my forged internal motor can handle it. Guess I'll want to run a meth kit for some added octane? Just going to make sure my tuner makes it fat and low timing I guess lol.
#12
TECH Regular
iTrader: (9)
How much power are you making NA on your current motor? That will give you a rough idea on how much boost you'll need to hit 700.
BTW the ATI Procharger 8 rib pulley is 7.625", but all the other information TurboAv gave is very good.
Really if you swap the cam for one that will build/hold the boost better than what you have you should be able to pull of 16 PSI on the motor. A lot depends on the cam at that point. Bigger is not always better when it comes to these combinations.
BTW the ATI Procharger 8 rib pulley is 7.625", but all the other information TurboAv gave is very good.
Really if you swap the cam for one that will build/hold the boost better than what you have you should be able to pull of 16 PSI on the motor. A lot depends on the cam at that point. Bigger is not always better when it comes to these combinations.
#15
Got a few more questions for you guys...
First off, what is everyone using to cut their bumpers with? Dremel? In the past when I was into riding 4-wheelers we used hacksaws to "race" cut our plastic fenders. Then went back and smoothed them with a file. Has anyone tried that? Let me hear some techniques.
Also when I bolted the blower on it only used 5 bolts. One big bolt, and 4 of the smaller bolts. Is that enough? Btw the blower has been clocked and the outlet is going towards the driver side.
Also on the passenger side by the horns, there is a black canister looking thing. I've seen it called a vacum canister? What is that, and what happens if I remove it? If I have to keep it where's a good place to mount it?
Thanks guys
First off, what is everyone using to cut their bumpers with? Dremel? In the past when I was into riding 4-wheelers we used hacksaws to "race" cut our plastic fenders. Then went back and smoothed them with a file. Has anyone tried that? Let me hear some techniques.
Also when I bolted the blower on it only used 5 bolts. One big bolt, and 4 of the smaller bolts. Is that enough? Btw the blower has been clocked and the outlet is going towards the driver side.
Also on the passenger side by the horns, there is a black canister looking thing. I've seen it called a vacum canister? What is that, and what happens if I remove it? If I have to keep it where's a good place to mount it?
Thanks guys
#17
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
iTrader: (50)
Not that its THAT big of a deal, but the crank pulley diameter is actually 7.65". And yes, EPP makes a bigger crank pulley, but its for the GTO, it won't fit the fbodies. I'd also recommend a blower specific cam like the EPP one, or something like the SC series from speed inc. Your compression is pretty high as you know, so a meth kit would be a great investment. I like my alkycontrol kit.
I used a 3" cutoff wheel to cut my bumper when I did my horizontal FMIC. And also that vacuum canister is needed for your HVAC controls, and can be relocated. I relocated mine by the p/s headlight bracket. There are also other methods to curing belt slip if you should run into that. I've been running an extra idler pulley on mine, and it works wonders! https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rap-fbody.html
The blower does only use 5 bolts to bolt to the bracket (Altho I'm running only 4 right now still, and no issues with my F1).
You can attach the fan to the front of the radiator (or the front of the condenser if you still have it) with special plastic fan attachment ties that go thru the core fins, or I've even used regular zip-ties and that works fine as well.
I used a 3" cutoff wheel to cut my bumper when I did my horizontal FMIC. And also that vacuum canister is needed for your HVAC controls, and can be relocated. I relocated mine by the p/s headlight bracket. There are also other methods to curing belt slip if you should run into that. I've been running an extra idler pulley on mine, and it works wonders! https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rap-fbody.html
The blower does only use 5 bolts to bolt to the bracket (Altho I'm running only 4 right now still, and no issues with my F1).
You can attach the fan to the front of the radiator (or the front of the condenser if you still have it) with special plastic fan attachment ties that go thru the core fins, or I've even used regular zip-ties and that works fine as well.
Last edited by ChevyChad; 01-14-2010 at 02:52 PM.
#18
Thanks Chad!
I know the cam isn't great, but it's staying in there until I Dyno it and if I don't make the numbers I want, I'll swap her out. I didn't think about using zipties for the fan, but where would one get those plastic clips you speak of? Also I'm not running AC, so no condensor. I think I'll just zip tie it up out of the way.
And about the meth kit. I want to run meth for sure. Just don't want to spend the money on a alkycontrol kit lol. I've found several snowmeth kits for sound $200 used. But most of them are the stage 1 kits. And are activates by a hobbs switch. I don't think those kits have and adjustability such as ramping it in. Will somthing like one of those "base" kits be ok?? Thanks again
I know the cam isn't great, but it's staying in there until I Dyno it and if I don't make the numbers I want, I'll swap her out. I didn't think about using zipties for the fan, but where would one get those plastic clips you speak of? Also I'm not running AC, so no condensor. I think I'll just zip tie it up out of the way.
And about the meth kit. I want to run meth for sure. Just don't want to spend the money on a alkycontrol kit lol. I've found several snowmeth kits for sound $200 used. But most of them are the stage 1 kits. And are activates by a hobbs switch. I don't think those kits have and adjustability such as ramping it in. Will somthing like one of those "base" kits be ok?? Thanks again
#19
11 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
I went with the cooling mist varicool 2 and love it. The controler is tunable for almoast anything. I would run 14ish or so psi with methanol inj. 700 should be pretty easy for that setup seeing as how theres 347's running 16-18psi making 740+ to the wheels. Look at some of EPP's project cars and you'll see what the possibilities are. I would change the cam as everyone else said, $400 more for a specific cam isnt a bad investment.