Dry Kit Jets??
#2
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The biggest shot would be no jets and about135-140rwhp.
for a 125 dry twin jets 0.038 , keep in mind that the rating on NOS 5177 is at the flywheel and not RWHP. So 125 dry is really only around 106rwhp shot.
for a 125 dry twin jets 0.038 , keep in mind that the rating on NOS 5177 is at the flywheel and not RWHP. So 125 dry is really only around 106rwhp shot.
#3
Originally Posted by 4thGENRETARD
The biggest shot would be no jets and about135-140rwhp.
for a 125 dry twin jets 0.038 , keep in mind that the rating on NOS 5177 is at the flywheel and not RWHP. So 125 dry is really only around 106rwhp shot.
for a 125 dry twin jets 0.038 , keep in mind that the rating on NOS 5177 is at the flywheel and not RWHP. So 125 dry is really only around 106rwhp shot.
#4
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And yes thats what he is saying! Sounds aweful doesnt it. I cant wait to do it myself. Only do that with the NOS nozzle, the NX and TNT flow too much more to do that safely. Look at the orfices.
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Well some poeple do it, but you would have to retard at wot and richen your AFR. In any case IMO it is better just to custom drill one set of jets with 1.2 mm bit, you'll end up with 0.044 jets which would give you same shot as no jets but with a better spray pattern. I have those and one set of 1 mm jets (0.040) for 150 and 130 dry shots respectively. TR6 or similar plugs a must and Autotap doesn't hurt.
#6
Originally Posted by 4thGENRETARD
Well some poeple do it, but you would have to retard at wot and richen your AFR. In any case IMO it is better just to custom drill one set of jets with 1.2 mm bit, you'll end up with 0.044 jets which would give you same shot as no jets but with a better spray pattern. I have those and one set of 1 mm jets (0.040) for 150 and 130 dry shots respectively. TR6 or similar plugs a must and Autotap doesn't hurt.
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you'll need colder plugs otherwise you're cruising for detonation and possible major damage.
It is not worth the risk to remove the nossles without fine tuning and making sure you get enough fuel.
NGK TR6 are cheap and one step colder, gap at 0.040.
After that you need a richer mixture around 11.5:1 and less timing like 26* at WOT (3000rpm to shift point)
It is not worth the risk to remove the nossles without fine tuning and making sure you get enough fuel.
NGK TR6 are cheap and one step colder, gap at 0.040.
After that you need a richer mixture around 11.5:1 and less timing like 26* at WOT (3000rpm to shift point)