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Tubular 5.0 k member, longtubes

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Old 01-25-2010, 09:52 PM
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Default Tubular 5.0 k member, longtubes

i did search, didn't find much. has anybody successfully ran (or seen) a tubular 5.0 k member, with an lsx in it with longtube headers???

looks to me like this oil pan would work, you wouldn't have to notch it like the f-body oil pans...

http://www.sdpc2000.com/details/gm-f...parts/19212593

k-member is a teamz.

if it's been done, what headers worked???
or if you have seen this attempted, and fail, post that too. thanks
Old 01-25-2010, 11:14 PM
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I have a AJE with Dynatech headers and a f car oil pan fit perfect. No cutting or grinding.

Tim
Old 01-26-2010, 12:27 AM
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the truck pan is way too close to the floor. I ended out swapping it out with the camaro pan. Im running 351w headers with ls flanges on them. 1 3/4" headers were $100 from a local guy.
Old 01-26-2010, 10:04 AM
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We used a slightly modified 5.0 tubular k-member and, KOOKS headers, fbody oil pan. It can be done. We could have got away without modifying the k-member, but didn't want to dimple the $700 headers.
Old 01-26-2010, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by GlennNo50
We used a slightly modified 5.0 tubular k-member and, KOOKS headers, fbody oil pan. It can be done. We could have got away without modifying the k-member, but didn't want to dimple the $700 headers.
i dont blame you, i dont think i could ever spend $700 on headers....i know, call me a cheap azz
Old 01-26-2010, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by GlennNo50
We used a slightly modified 5.0 tubular k-member and, KOOKS headers, fbody oil pan. It can be done. We could have got away without modifying the k-member, but didn't want to dimple the $700 headers.
this is good news for me, do you have any pictures? what did you have to clearance on the k member? what did you do for motor mounts?
Old 01-26-2010, 10:37 AM
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another few questions here, is it true that when replacing the rod bolts on a cracked cap rod, you can simply replace one at a time and have no issues? also, those of you who replaced the rod bolts in your lq9's did you use arp part number 134-6006 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-6006/ or 134-6026 http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=ARP-134-6026
Old 01-26-2010, 12:24 PM
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From what I have been told with ARP bolts the rod must be resized. Katech are a direct replacment

Tim
Old 01-26-2010, 02:19 PM
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thanks. just got this off another forum

Originally Posted by 331-stang
I called ARP, they said that it is recomended to have the rods resized , but he also said "he is required to tell people that for law suit purpose's", and has had customers use the one bolt at a time replacement with good results .
Old 01-26-2010, 02:25 PM
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we have used aje k members a few times with zero issues with an f body oilpan

the kooks lsx swap headers are really close to the k member and we have had to pull the engine over a little bit to get everything to clear and not touch anywhere

however the kooks longtubes will not work with straight exhaust right out of the collector with the aje crossmember for a TH400 you have to modify the drivers side for this to work

when asking aje about this issue they said it is because the kooks longtubes are much longer for better results when just running open headers they said other brands if you put a bend in the exhasut you would be bolting to the header it clears fine becaus the collector is not as long as with the kooks

just an fyi on the kooks longtubes for lsx swap in a fox
Old 01-26-2010, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by E-Works
we have used aje k members a few times with zero issues with an f body oilpan

the kooks lsx swap headers are really close to the k member and we have had to pull the engine over a little bit to get everything to clear and not touch anywhere

however the kooks longtubes will not work with straight exhaust right out of the collector with the aje crossmember for a TH400 you have to modify the drivers side for this to work

when asking aje about this issue they said it is because the kooks longtubes are much longer for better results when just running open headers they said other brands if you put a bend in the exhasut you would be bolting to the header it clears fine becaus the collector is not as long as with the kooks

just an fyi on the kooks longtubes for lsx swap in a fox
thanks, just to clear things up with everybody i am wondering about tubular k members for 302/351s. not 4.6 or sbc/lsx swap k members.
Old 01-26-2010, 03:23 PM
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it prolly wont work so good with the rack & pinion location as to get the f body oil pan to clear the rack and the k member you will have to raise the engine and the centerline of the crank will be about 2 inches higher than it wold have been with a 302

for the price you can get an aje for wich is right about 375 you can sell the 302 one for prolly 200 and u have zero issues

i did just that for my car and sold some other ford parts to pay for the new aje k member and crossmember for the 4l60e
Old 01-26-2010, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GlennNo50
We used a slightly modified 5.0 tubular k-member and, KOOKS headers, fbody oil pan. It can be done. We could have got away without modifying the k-member, but didn't want to dimple the $700 headers.
so i found how you guys have been adapting them... what i really want to know is what you did to the k member to get the headers to fit?
Old 01-26-2010, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by GlennNo50
We used a slightly modified 5.0 tubular k-member and, KOOKS headers, fbody oil pan. It can be done. We could have got away without modifying the k-member, but didn't want to dimple the $700 headers.
Glenn, i read through all your posts, and see you guys used the MM k member, and had clearance issues on the passenger side. where did you have to clearance? i've highlighted 2 spots in these pictures... which one was in the way?


Old 01-27-2010, 08:05 AM
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Our k-member doesn't look much like that one. We may have a D&D or even something else now that I think of it. It is pretty old. The part on pic 1 is not on our k-member. But our clearance issue was with the area in pic 2. Actually looks like the area where 1 and 2 meet was the problem area.
Old 01-27-2010, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by R0B0T
so i found how you guys have been adapting them... what i really want to know is what you did to the k member to get the headers to fit?
We just cut/ground out a 3 inch long section and then welded a 3/8" thick piece of flat stock on the side and on the bottom.



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