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What should do to ge this thing shifting better?

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Old 02-14-2010, 12:52 PM
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Default What should do to ge this thing shifting better?

I just bought a M6 making 408 rwhp on motor. It has 36K on the clock, "if it is correct"
I was told it has a SLP short throw shifter and a "stage 3"

I am going to pull the T-56 and get it shifting better, it shifts OK but it seems a little rough going into 2nd and 6th.

What do you recommend for freshing it up as far as new syncro's I am thinking and where do I get the steel shift fork upgrade kit that I read about on here?

Can anyone recommend a good rebuild manual or DVD?

I have rebuilt the M-21 in my Chevelle years ago so I am nota total Newbie

I will post pics of the clutch when I get it out and measure the disc thickness, to determine if they need replaced.

What about a good aftermarket Throw out bearing?

Is there anything I can do to the short throw SLP shifter (such as better bushings) or is there a better shifter out there, that would be the better route?

Thanks in advance
Old 02-14-2010, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by adrynalinjunkie
I just bought a M6 making 408 rwhp on motor. It has 36K on the clock, "if it is correct"
I was told it has a SLP short throw shifter and a "stage 3"

I am going to pull the T-56 and get it shifting better, it shifts OK but it seems a little rough going into 2nd and 6th.
What do you mean by rough?? Do you get gear clash as you're shifting into those 2 gears?? Rarely does 6th gear exhibit any problems.

What do you recommend for freshing it up as far as new syncro's I am thinking and where do I get the steel shift fork upgrade kit that I read about on here?
I got my rebuild kit from thegearbox.org. They have OEM Tremec parts, good prices, and good service. You'll want a kit with blocker rings, fork pads, snap rings, and synchro keys. If you need new synchro hubs themselves, they are separate, and quite expensive. Often times you can just replace the blocker rings and it will shift like new. You'll know if the synchros themselves are still good once you take it apart, you have to check the engagement teeth. They should be in the shape of a house with a point on top, not square or worn down.

They also sell the steel 3-4 shift fork upgrade.

Can anyone recommend a good rebuild manual or DVD?
Here is the OEM Tremec manual. This is what I used, and it was very good:

http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English...ice_Manual.pdf

Just print it out and you should be good to go.

I have rebuilt the M-21 in my Chevelle years ago so I am nota total Newbie
Good that you have experience. However, be warned that the T56 is much more complex than a Muncie or Saginaw, they are a totally different animal. However, if you have good mechanical skills, the proper tools, and the service manual, you should be okay.

I will post pics of the clutch when I get it out and measure the disc thickness, to determine if they need replaced.

What about a good aftermarket Throw out bearing?
Just change the entire slave cylinder while you are in there. New GM slave cylinders come with the TO bearing already installed. You can get one from one of the sponsors, I think WS6Store has them.

Is there anything I can do to the short throw SLP shifter (such as better bushings) or is there a better shifter out there, that would be the better route?

Thanks in advance
Personally I like my Pro 5.0, its extremely precise and very well built. It makes the car a pleasure to drive. However, I've never tried the SLP, so I can't directly compare the two. Recently a lot of guys have been going with the MGW shifters which are supposed to be very good, but I haven't tried one perspnally.
Old 02-14-2010, 08:46 PM
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Priceless info! Thanks bro! That will save me many hours of searching through threads in this mega forum
Old 02-14-2010, 08:49 PM
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I wouldn't call it gear clash, it just didn't shift like the 2010 I test drove, of coarse that one was $30,000 more than I paid for this one also
Old 02-14-2010, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by adrynalinjunkie
I wouldn't call it gear clash, it just didn't shift like the 2010 I test drove, of coarse that one was $30,000 more than I paid for this one also
So was it just "notchy"?? Or difficult to engage the gear?? Was there any audible grinding noise upon gear engagement??

The 2010 Camaros have a remove shifter linkage, which is much more isolated (less feel) than the direct shifter style that our cars use. This may be the difference you are feeling.
Old 02-15-2010, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Wesmanw02
So was it just "notchy"?? Or difficult to engage the gear?? Was there any audible grinding noise upon gear engagement??

The 2010 Camaros have a remove shifter linkage, which is much more isolated (less feel) than the direct shifter style that our cars use. This may be the difference you are feeling.
No audible noises, "Notchy" is the word I was looking for.
I just want the smoothest shifting I can for a Daily Driver Like this.
Old 02-15-2010, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by adrynalinjunkie
No audible noises, "Notchy" is the word I was looking for.
I just want the smoothest shifting I can for a Daily Driver Like this.
I would just try a different shifter then, such as the Pro 5.0 or MGW. I have a Pro 5.0, its a great shifter, but you still may find it too notchy. The MGW is getting rave reviews, might want to try one of those first before you tear into the trans.
Old 02-15-2010, 06:40 PM
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If you say its notchy, could be the fluid. My car has mobile 1 ATF and its notchy when its cold. How is it shifting? If its hard to get in gear, could need new hydraulics, check out the tick master cyclinder, its a work of art and pretty much solves the hydraulics problems that plague these cars. I have one and I love it.



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