Buying an 04 CTS-V tomorrow... Need input...
02-21-2010, 05:24 PM
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Buying an 04 CTS-V tomorrow... Need input... Ok, finally found the deal i've been looking for! The car isnt 100% flawless but it is in great shape and the price is right for that reason. Its going to be my daily/toy/project so i dont mind having to put some work into it because when its done, it will be perfect and the way i want it for what i would buy a newer, super clean low mileage V for so id rather go this route. Motor will eventually be pulled and replaced with a built one. The rear will eventually be built as well so im not worried about that for now.
Its a clear title black 04 V(2nd owner car) with 100k miles, black/tan interior (really wanted black/black but its flawless so i dont mind), moonroof, lots of new parts replaced recently under warranty just before it expired a couple months ago including all the rear end bushings, new brakes, new fuel pump/filter, new oil pump, new complete moonroof and motor assembly because the stock was beginning to leak a little and the dealer replaces them instead of repairing them, new clutch, etc. Mods wise, the car is mostly stock but has a K&N intake on it and a Magnaflow catback and a skip shift eliminator. It comes with an extra 04/05 rear diff with low miles on it which i plan to pull apart to put 4.10 gears, posi-trac, diff brace and all that good stuff before replacing the current stock one with it. The car has some exterior flaws so I'm going to have the entire car stripped down and satin blacked for the complete murdered look by a buddy of mine.
My plans are to do Trickflow 225cc Heads, HPE S-cam, Fast 92/92 intake, TB, Mass air and an LS7 clutch and flywheel, Kooks LT's, O/R X, Cutouts and keep the Mag catback for quiet cruising and a good dyno tune. Even with 100k miles, the shortblock should be strong enough to hold up for a good while considering the whole top end would have been replaced with all this new stuff. Ive seen people spray 180k mile LS1's running as low as 10's in the 1/4 without any issues. Just has to be done right. Considering going with a Nitrous kit myself and running 100-150 shot on it. When the motor goes (if it does), ill put a built 408 or 427 shortblock in it and port the heads and go with a bigger cam if needed, built T-56 and built solid rear and have it all ready for nitrous or boost, whatever my heart desires at that time.
Keep in mind... these are eventual plans that wont be happening right away. For now, it will be a mildly modded daily driver with all the cosmetic changes being done first.
Now, i know i have said quite a bit (Prob TMI) but is there anything else i should need to do for now? I know the rears are weak so i wont be beating on it until i get the extra one ill have beefed up and installed but is there anything else i should be worried about or that i should need to do being it has 100k on it? Bushings? Motor mounts? Anything suspension wise? Etc?
Thanks for the help guys!!
Its a clear title black 04 V(2nd owner car) with 100k miles, black/tan interior (really wanted black/black but its flawless so i dont mind), moonroof, lots of new parts replaced recently under warranty just before it expired a couple months ago including all the rear end bushings, new brakes, new fuel pump/filter, new oil pump, new complete moonroof and motor assembly because the stock was beginning to leak a little and the dealer replaces them instead of repairing them, new clutch, etc. Mods wise, the car is mostly stock but has a K&N intake on it and a Magnaflow catback and a skip shift eliminator. It comes with an extra 04/05 rear diff with low miles on it which i plan to pull apart to put 4.10 gears, posi-trac, diff brace and all that good stuff before replacing the current stock one with it. The car has some exterior flaws so I'm going to have the entire car stripped down and satin blacked for the complete murdered look by a buddy of mine.
My plans are to do Trickflow 225cc Heads, HPE S-cam, Fast 92/92 intake, TB, Mass air and an LS7 clutch and flywheel, Kooks LT's, O/R X, Cutouts and keep the Mag catback for quiet cruising and a good dyno tune. Even with 100k miles, the shortblock should be strong enough to hold up for a good while considering the whole top end would have been replaced with all this new stuff. Ive seen people spray 180k mile LS1's running as low as 10's in the 1/4 without any issues. Just has to be done right. Considering going with a Nitrous kit myself and running 100-150 shot on it. When the motor goes (if it does), ill put a built 408 or 427 shortblock in it and port the heads and go with a bigger cam if needed, built T-56 and built solid rear and have it all ready for nitrous or boost, whatever my heart desires at that time.
Keep in mind... these are eventual plans that wont be happening right away. For now, it will be a mildly modded daily driver with all the cosmetic changes being done first.
Now, i know i have said quite a bit (Prob TMI) but is there anything else i should need to do for now? I know the rears are weak so i wont be beating on it until i get the extra one ill have beefed up and installed but is there anything else i should be worried about or that i should need to do being it has 100k on it? Bushings? Motor mounts? Anything suspension wise? Etc?
Thanks for the help guys!!
Last edited by NeverSatisfied02; 02-21-2010 at 05:34 PM.
02-21-2010, 06:36 PM
#5
Not much in the gearing options, and nothing you can do to the internals will help make the diff stronger. The issue is more the casing and mounting then the guts.
On your short list should be a short shifter and some new rear axles to help with the wheel hop.
On your short list should be a short shifter and some new rear axles to help with the wheel hop.
02-21-2010, 06:44 PM
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And yeah, i forgot to say that.
Which short throw do yall like? Ive heard of a couple that are basically just a modified stock shifter but i dont know much about them. Aftermarket wise, i figured a B&M ripper or Hurst would be my main options unless MGW makes one for the V.
Which axels should i need?
Im going to lower the car for now on stock springs. Just going to cut a full coil off the rear and 3/4 off the front...
02-21-2010, 10:04 PM
#7
Just did a B&M yesterday and i love it, cheapest option besides stock modified but well worth it IMO.
Pay for springs also I wouldnt cut stock springs when you can buy H&Rs for 270 and your gonna need spacers as well. MGW and hurst dont make shifters for the V......you have B&M, Katech, UUC, and a couple others.
Also just did a Hendrix drivers side axle and that eliminated the hop on completely dry roads.
Pay for springs also I wouldnt cut stock springs when you can buy H&Rs for 270 and your gonna need spacers as well. MGW and hurst dont make shifters for the V......you have B&M, Katech, UUC, and a couple others.
Also just did a Hendrix drivers side axle and that eliminated the hop on completely dry roads.
Last edited by itsslow98; 02-21-2010 at 10:09 PM.
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02-21-2010, 11:50 PM
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Just did a B&M yesterday and i love it, cheapest option besides stock modified but well worth it IMO.
Pay for springs also I wouldnt cut stock springs when you can buy H&Rs for 270 and your gonna need spacers as well. MGW and hurst dont make shifters for the V......you have B&M, Katech, UUC, and a couple others.
Also just did a Hendrix drivers side axle and that eliminated the hop on completely dry roads.
Pay for springs also I wouldnt cut stock springs when you can buy H&Rs for 270 and your gonna need spacers as well. MGW and hurst dont make shifters for the V......you have B&M, Katech, UUC, and a couple others.
Also just did a Hendrix drivers side axle and that eliminated the hop on completely dry roads.
And ok. Im a fan of H&R coils myself. I want it low though and i hear the Eibachs ride like crap and dont lower it enough. I was told the stocks ride great when you cut em because they keep the same spring rate as stock... just shorter.
And ok. How much was that axel kit? Ill prob do that asap.
02-22-2010, 12:23 AM
#9
Make sure to order the shifter bushings, ill Pm yout he info.
Axle kit was 349 plus shipping but id just pay the like 40 or whatever to have them assemble it, its not that hard but worth the money IMO as I did it myself and would have rather just had it to slide right in. Hendrix Engineering makes it and so does Gforce, but Im a fan of Hendrix they know their stuff and are good to deal with.
Axle kit was 349 plus shipping but id just pay the like 40 or whatever to have them assemble it, its not that hard but worth the money IMO as I did it myself and would have rather just had it to slide right in. Hendrix Engineering makes it and so does Gforce, but Im a fan of Hendrix they know their stuff and are good to deal with.
02-22-2010, 11:00 AM
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Make sure to order the shifter bushings, ill Pm yout he info.
Axle kit was 349 plus shipping but id just pay the like 40 or whatever to have them assemble it, its not that hard but worth the money IMO as I did it myself and would have rather just had it to slide right in. Hendrix Engineering makes it and so does Gforce, but Im a fan of Hendrix they know their stuff and are good to deal with.
Axle kit was 349 plus shipping but id just pay the like 40 or whatever to have them assemble it, its not that hard but worth the money IMO as I did it myself and would have rather just had it to slide right in. Hendrix Engineering makes it and so does Gforce, but Im a fan of Hendrix they know their stuff and are good to deal with.
Would you suggest to do both sides or just 1? I see they sell it both ways online?
I just want to do whatever it takes to stop the wheelhop.
02-22-2010, 01:14 PM
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Good luck with ur purchase man! I need a STS BAD that should definitely be the first mod!!
itslow98 I had looked for the BM shifter before online and couldnt find it. Where did you get urs??
itslow98 I had looked for the BM shifter before online and couldnt find it. Where did you get urs??
02-23-2010, 10:04 PM
#13
atlantic speed has the b&m on ebay. and the instructions that came with them were pretty good IMO. Install wasnt bad except you need a gtood drill bit to drill out the rivets on the stock shifter. And you need small ahnds if you dont wanna drop the exhaust lol, my hands are all jacked up because i didnt drop it.
I talked to Thomas at Hendrix and he said all you need is the drivers axle, people are **** about some things so if they want one for the passenger they buy it but one is all you need.
I talked to Thomas at Hendrix and he said all you need is the drivers axle, people are **** about some things so if they want one for the passenger they buy it but one is all you need.
02-24-2010, 11:44 AM
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Oh, it most definitely will be since its cheap and makes a huge difference. Heads/cam is going to take some time to save for but not too long. I want to get all the little details out of the way first before getting to the big things.
02-24-2010, 11:45 AM
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atlantic speed has the b&m on ebay. and the instructions that came with them were pretty good IMO. Install wasnt bad except you need a gtood drill bit to drill out the rivets on the stock shifter. And you need small ahnds if you dont wanna drop the exhaust lol, my hands are all jacked up because i didnt drop it.
I talked to Thomas at Hendrix and he said all you need is the drivers axle, people are **** about some things so if they want one for the passenger they buy it but one is all you need.
I talked to Thomas at Hendrix and he said all you need is the drivers axle, people are **** about some things so if they want one for the passenger they buy it but one is all you need.
