Clunk with S60 and UMI torque arm
#1
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Clunk with S60 and UMI torque arm
S60 with truetrac and UMI tunnel mounted TA. Quick question: does anyone else get a clunking on engagement/disengagement of the clutch. I figured since the TA is bolted to the body, I'm feeling gear lash from the T56 and the rear. Its especially noticeable when you blip the throttle repeatedly. Just want to make sure that's normal.
Thanks,
James
Thanks,
James
#2
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I've heard of a lot of guys complain of this problem on the street especially with a M6.
I'm running the UMI TA relocation crossmember with an A4. It's mainly a bracket car so I don't really notice a problem.
I'm running the UMI TA relocation crossmember with an A4. It's mainly a bracket car so I don't really notice a problem.
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S60 with truetrac and UMI tunnel mounted TA. Quick question: does anyone else get a clunking on engagement/disengagement of the clutch. I figured since the TA is bolted to the body, I'm feeling gear lash from the T56 and the rear. Its especially noticeable when you blip the throttle repeatedly. Just want to make sure that's normal.
Thanks,
James
Thanks,
James
#5
I just put a umi torque arm on a pretty much stock m6 with a 10 bolt and hear the same sort of a clunk. I can sit there going from first to reverse just bumping the clutch and hear a clunk each time. Does eliminating the extra bushing (tailshaft to crossmember) from the gear slack noise path really make it that much louder?
#7
I have the same set up with a TH400 and a spool. Going into reverse it bangs hard. Nothing is loose, and I guess whatever it is will bite me some day.
Al 95 Z28 S60, UMI arm and tunnel mount.
Al 95 Z28 S60, UMI arm and tunnel mount.
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#9
FormerVendor
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A few things will cause a clunk.
1. Make sure the pivot brackets in the front are tight, if there is any slope in these brackets it will clunk when the arm pivots.
2. Where the torque arm mounts to the rear end this bracket is much larger than factory and will hit the tunnel of the car when the suspension compresses (launch, hard shift ect) If the vehicle is lowered this will be worse, if you have an aftermarket rear end this will be much worse because of the rear end size. The solution is to clearance the tunnel some with a hammer, this gives the torque arm more room to travel. Also making sure the rear end is centered under the car is a good idea, if it is not it needs centered which will gain clearance. If you have an S60 the torque arm has two sets of mounting holes... you can trim off the first set and slide the arm into the next set. This moves the arm away from the tunnel.
I hope this helps,
Ryan
1. Make sure the pivot brackets in the front are tight, if there is any slope in these brackets it will clunk when the arm pivots.
2. Where the torque arm mounts to the rear end this bracket is much larger than factory and will hit the tunnel of the car when the suspension compresses (launch, hard shift ect) If the vehicle is lowered this will be worse, if you have an aftermarket rear end this will be much worse because of the rear end size. The solution is to clearance the tunnel some with a hammer, this gives the torque arm more room to travel. Also making sure the rear end is centered under the car is a good idea, if it is not it needs centered which will gain clearance. If you have an S60 the torque arm has two sets of mounting holes... you can trim off the first set and slide the arm into the next set. This moves the arm away from the tunnel.
I hope this helps,
Ryan