Best way to go for my M6
#1
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Best way to go for my M6
I am looking into rebuilding my 6 speed this fall, I am having some problems with shifting and such, I plan to upgrade my master cylinder to a tick, but I am curious about the transmission. I havent gotten my car dyno'd yet, I am planning on it next week so I am not completely sure what I am at for torque. I would guess somewhere around the 480 range with heads\cam, intake/tb, longtubes, injectors, etc. What is the rating for how much a stock t-56 can hold? Is there any need to rebuild my transmission? I believe I am having synchronizer problems going by one of my other posts. If so what parts need to be replaced/strengthened? I have a good transmission shop close buy that can do the work so I will not be messing with it. Any advice is helpful, thanks.
#2
TECH Enthusiast
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If your going to go with a Tick master, go ahead and get their kit to do a Stage 2 rebuild. It comes with 1/2 and 3/4 syncros + all other small parts required.
I think the stage 2 kit is $ 629. A 3/4 syncro is an easy > $ 120 as I put one in my rebuild a couple yrs ago.
I think the stage 2 kit is $ 629. A 3/4 syncro is an easy > $ 120 as I put one in my rebuild a couple yrs ago.
#3
Internet Mechanic
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Over building something is not going to hurt you, may cost a few more $$$ but certainly ensure most power situations will not break it. NOW I will say that any idiot can trash a high $$$ transmission so being a good driver does matter.
Having a good clutch kit, new hydralics and the Tick Master are GREAT steps in the right direction.
Reference sponsors and see what packages they offer, often this is what you should be shooting for. Definitly getting new Synchros and Upgraded Blocker rings are a plus, as well as a Steel CLutch Fork and upgraded Pads at minimum
Having a good clutch kit, new hydralics and the Tick Master are GREAT steps in the right direction.
Reference sponsors and see what packages they offer, often this is what you should be shooting for. Definitly getting new Synchros and Upgraded Blocker rings are a plus, as well as a Steel CLutch Fork and upgraded Pads at minimum
#4
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OK, I think you had mentioned tick master cyl in one of my other posts, I did some outside research and that sounds like the best way to go. I also looked on Tick's website and the stage 2 is around $630 and this is supposed to be rated at >600 ft/lbs. Is there any other parts i need to replace other than what comes in the stage 2 package? I have heard of hardened internal gear sets and such, but i didnt see anyhting like this on their site, is any of that necessary?
#5
Internet Mechanic
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OK, I think you had mentioned tick master cyl in one of my other posts, I did some outside research and that sounds like the best way to go. I also looked on Tick's website and the stage 2 is around $630 and this is supposed to be rated at >600 ft/lbs. Is there any other parts i need to replace other than what comes in the stage 2 package? I have heard of hardened internal gear sets and such, but i didnt see anyhting like this on their site, is any of that necessary?
Depending on what the car is used for, what power, and what RPM it spins, the recommondations change. I see you getting a Level 2 rebuild IMO. Also for myself I see that in my future at some point.
#6
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OK sounds good, it is a daily driver/weekend warrior, I plan on maybe hitting a strip but my main focus is on road course. It will probably see some pretty high rpm and hard shifting.
#7
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^ to give you an example. I have read post by guys who are making serious Twin Turbo power running a 1 mile race track and they needed a aftermarket gear for 6th (which is a 0.50 ratio) that could handle the power as the stockers were melting apart.
See what I mean.
See what I mean.