Help estimating what my car should have made on the dyno
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Help estimating what my car should have made on the dyno
The car I recently bought was dynoed but it was only spun to 6100 RPM's in fear of the springs not being correct. I am wondering what the cam should peak at and if it would have made higher numbers if spun to around 7000. I can see on the dyno that the HP was still rising. It put down 407 HP at 6100 and 395 TQ at 4700. The specs on the engine are -
383 LT1 eagle forged crank, forged pistons and rods
ported LT1 heads (flow 270/190) by jordan musser
ported runner LT4 intake (modified to mate up to LT1 head)
42lb green top ford injectors
custom grind cam by alan futral 238/245 .595 intake .575 exhaust
all new valvetrain components
crane springs
comp lifters
comp 1.6rrs
MSD wires with stainless guide
all emissions stuff deleted
Racetronix complete plug and play fuel pump kit
383 LT1 eagle forged crank, forged pistons and rods
ported LT1 heads (flow 270/190) by jordan musser
ported runner LT4 intake (modified to mate up to LT1 head)
42lb green top ford injectors
custom grind cam by alan futral 238/245 .595 intake .575 exhaust
all new valvetrain components
crane springs
comp lifters
comp 1.6rrs
MSD wires with stainless guide
all emissions stuff deleted
Racetronix complete plug and play fuel pump kit
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What did Alan tell you to spin the motor to?? Where did he say peak power would be with that cam??
I dont think your numbers are bad at all, you may find another 15-20hp going to 6800rpms
I dont think your numbers are bad at all, you may find another 15-20hp going to 6800rpms
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I bought this car with the motor already built. It was built back in "07.
Im not sure of the compression or the LSA. I dont know if the guy who did all this will even remember.
Im not sure of the compression or the LSA. I dont know if the guy who did all this will even remember.
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Im nearing completion of this car now (total restoration except the engine components), and Ive lightened it up a few hundred pounds. I found out a little more info on my car. The previous owner was an active member here from 2004-2009, his screen name is got HP?. Looking through his old posts I found the LSA for the cam.
"alan at Futral designed my cam for my 383.....238/245 .580/.591 on 112 with some of his handpicked lobes .........i said i wanted as large a cam as i could go while still maintaining good vacuum for brakes on the street, and wanted power from 3500-7000. cant wait to see what numbers it puts down."
The only thing I will add now is an electric water pump. Is there any way to find out the CR on an assembled engine? Im still wondering how much HP an TQ was left when he only spun the engine to 6100, and what the total numbers should be after the EWP install. (See first post for more specs) Car is a 6 speed, still 10 bolt, LS1 DS. Thanks.
BTW, its the orange car in my avatar, and I only have about $4200 invested in the whole car including paint (I'm a body man by trade)
"alan at Futral designed my cam for my 383.....238/245 .580/.591 on 112 with some of his handpicked lobes .........i said i wanted as large a cam as i could go while still maintaining good vacuum for brakes on the street, and wanted power from 3500-7000. cant wait to see what numbers it puts down."
The only thing I will add now is an electric water pump. Is there any way to find out the CR on an assembled engine? Im still wondering how much HP an TQ was left when he only spun the engine to 6100, and what the total numbers should be after the EWP install. (See first post for more specs) Car is a 6 speed, still 10 bolt, LS1 DS. Thanks.
BTW, its the orange car in my avatar, and I only have about $4200 invested in the whole car including paint (I'm a body man by trade)
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Thanks Puck. If its that cheap I will probably dyno it once I get the correct valve springs. Some that will handle the lift with no problem. It runs amazing, and always has in the 3 years Ive had it. The only thing I have added engine wise is the over the radiator intake, and EWP will be added here soon. I bought this car for a measly $3100 with the engine in it, and it ran great. Just needed the valves adjusted and a few odds and ends. Funny thing is, its pretty much exactly what I have wanted to build but never had the money to do so.
BTW, is Alan or Futral motorsports still around? What happened to them? What about Jordan Musser, the guy who ported the heads?
BTW, is Alan or Futral motorsports still around? What happened to them? What about Jordan Musser, the guy who ported the heads?
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How bad would it be to pull one spring assembly and get it checked at your local machine shop? I'm betting with the attention to that build that the springs are correct. Very good chance they are the usual dual Cranes (number slips my mind at the moment) which are a great spring. I've been running mine with a cc503 and 1.7:1 rockers for quite a while now.
It's a whole lot easier to R&R one spring than 16. Not to mention cheaper. Check your pushrods to make sure they are good ones....and that your rocker geometry is correct while you are in there.
Should be good for a few pulls after that.
If you do have to buy new springs......I wouldn't get beehives. I know a lot of people love them and have great success.....and I do believe that a lot of problems with breakage comes from installer error....but I still prefer the insurance of a dual spring against dropping a valve.
Also....you would be able to just change springs and keep your existing retainers and locks from the Crane's you have now.
It's a whole lot easier to R&R one spring than 16. Not to mention cheaper. Check your pushrods to make sure they are good ones....and that your rocker geometry is correct while you are in there.
Should be good for a few pulls after that.
If you do have to buy new springs......I wouldn't get beehives. I know a lot of people love them and have great success.....and I do believe that a lot of problems with breakage comes from installer error....but I still prefer the insurance of a dual spring against dropping a valve.
Also....you would be able to just change springs and keep your existing retainers and locks from the Crane's you have now.
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More interesting stuff I found. He was also on camaroz28.com, and heres a post that shows the dyno graph. They discuss a small dip in power.and the consensus is the engine has the wrong valve springs. http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-...r-rpms-529101/
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How bad would it be to pull one spring assembly and get it checked at your local machine shop? I'm betting with the attention to that build that the springs are correct. It's a whole lot easier to R&R one spring than 16. Not to mention cheaper. Check your pushrods to make sure they are good ones....and that your rocker geometry is correct while you are in there.
Should be good for a few pulls after that.
Should be good for a few pulls after that.
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If you do have to buy new springs......I wouldn't get beehives. I know a lot of people love them and have great success.....and I do believe that a lot of problems with breakage comes from installer error....but I still prefer the insurance of a dual spring against dropping a valve.
Also....you would be able to just change springs and keep your existing retainers and locks from the Crane's you have now.
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The engine builder chimes in at the bottom of this post if anyone recognizes him. Doesn't look active anymore. Apparently he had a 420 cid 9 sec. NA 95 T/A - http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sout...3-sale-456037/
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Wow...haven't heard these names in a long time. I think Alan or Futral motorsports is out of business or is just doing side work. Jordan Musser is driving for some team driving a fifth gen Camaro last time I heard.
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What about D'Agostino racing lol. They are the guys who tuned it. Somewhere in central/south Fl. I bought this car in Sarasota. Its got all kinds of out of business parts!
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Nothing wrong with that. I've got heads from CNC Cylinder Heads that was also out of FL on my 97. I've heard nothing but good things about them....and they have been fine for me. No dyno or track numbers though......so my opinion of them means nothing to most on here because of that.
Is that the same D'Agostino that was really big on the "Super Street" NMCA racing series (10.5" tire cars) back in the glory days of street car racing?
Is that the same D'Agostino that was really big on the "Super Street" NMCA racing series (10.5" tire cars) back in the glory days of street car racing?