13.4 in the 1/4????
10-19-2010, 10:23 PM
#1
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13.4 in the 1/4???? i have a 99 z with lid,fast t/b,slp maf/ls6 intake,hooker l/ts,true duals dumped and tuned by frost
bmr lowers,panhard,tunnel mounted torque arm,slp frame connectors
3.73s w/ ta gridle and 18inch et streets
all this and went 13.2 w/ the best of 2.0 60ft all traps where 106ish was kinda disappointed then me and my buddy who owns a 347 95 stang who has a best of 11.8 on motor went from a low roll and i was side by side with him until i let out im not much for street racing but i let it shift into drive and then let out id say from 20 to 100 kinda impressed me cause even though i hate fords his cars fast
so im thinking its my torque convertor which is fine cause im rebuilding it soon with all the good stuff sunshell,3-4 clutchs,servos,and 3800stall
just chime in and let me know what you think thanks
bmr lowers,panhard,tunnel mounted torque arm,slp frame connectors
3.73s w/ ta gridle and 18inch et streets
all this and went 13.2 w/ the best of 2.0 60ft all traps where 106ish was kinda disappointed then me and my buddy who owns a 347 95 stang who has a best of 11.8 on motor went from a low roll and i was side by side with him until i let out im not much for street racing but i let it shift into drive and then let out id say from 20 to 100 kinda impressed me cause even though i hate fords his cars fast
so im thinking its my torque convertor which is fine cause im rebuilding it soon with all the good stuff sunshell,3-4 clutchs,servos,and 3800stall
just chime in and let me know what you think thanks
10-21-2010, 01:46 PM
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i have mickey tompsons et streets no spin at all off the line but i just found that the temp sensor broke off in the head just the plastic part which i heard could throw random misfire codes??
10-21-2010, 02:19 PM
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a good stall would really help you out . your mph seems ok for your et . do a stall and get a full tune to dial everything in and you should be on the better side of the 12's w/o a problem .. 
10-21-2010, 10:22 PM
#5
Deff need more stall but wait to match it up with a cam. The mods you have are good supporting mods, not really power makers. Once you get a tc with heads and a cam then youll be happy. Without more power a lot of those mods are more weight. The LS6 intake and long tubes are a good start.
10-22-2010, 01:36 PM
#6
Get a 4k stall and don't look back. Trust me. You don't need to wait to match it with a h/c combo. A good converter by a reputable company (Yank for example) will drive damn near stock and only require alittle more gas to get going, but be a beast at full throttle. I have a TCI 4K in my car and I drive it to work, the store, cruise, to the track and back, and its great. No problems at all.
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10-22-2010, 04:38 PM
#8
all this and went 13.2 w/ the best of 2.0 60ft all traps where 106ish was kinda disappointed then me and my buddy who owns a 347 95 stang who has a best of 11.8 on motor went from a low roll and i was side by side with him until i let out im not much for street racing but i let it shift into drive and then let out id say from 20 to 100 kinda impressed me cause even though i hate fords his cars fast
10-22-2010, 07:13 PM
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I was going to ask this same thing until i read and saw you already asked.
Alot of ppl think that just because a car traps higher that it will automatically win in a roll race. Thats not true at all though. When ppl race at the track it from a dig where most ppl dont lauch right or there powerband may be slighty high and power doesnt kick in right away as a roll race you can be in your powerband compared to the racer which makes a difference. To many variables tie into all of that and thats what makes roll racing and dig racing completely different. Trap speed at a track doesnt really mean nothing in a roll race unless its something thats a big big difference. I wont say it doesnt matter at all but its not the determining factor like most ppl think That saying anything can happen on the street is definitely true.
Alot of ppl think that just because a car traps higher that it will automatically win in a roll race. Thats not true at all though. When ppl race at the track it from a dig where most ppl dont lauch right or there powerband may be slighty high and power doesnt kick in right away as a roll race you can be in your powerband compared to the racer which makes a difference. To many variables tie into all of that and thats what makes roll racing and dig racing completely different. Trap speed at a track doesnt really mean nothing in a roll race unless its something thats a big big difference. I wont say it doesnt matter at all but its not the determining factor like most ppl think That saying anything can happen on the street is definitely true.
10-22-2010, 09:37 PM
#13
I was going to ask this same thing until i read and saw you already asked.
Alot of ppl think that just because a car traps higher that it will automatically win in a roll race. Thats not true at all though. When ppl race at the track it from a dig where most ppl dont lauch right or there powerband may be slighty high and power doesnt kick in right away as a roll race you can be in your powerband compared to the racer which makes a difference. To many variables tie into all of that and thats what makes roll racing and dig racing completely different. Trap speed at a track doesnt really mean nothing in a roll race unless its something thats a big big difference. I wont say it doesnt matter at all but its not the determining factor like most ppl think That saying anything can happen on the street is definitely true.
Alot of ppl think that just because a car traps higher that it will automatically win in a roll race. Thats not true at all though. When ppl race at the track it from a dig where most ppl dont lauch right or there powerband may be slighty high and power doesnt kick in right away as a roll race you can be in your powerband compared to the racer which makes a difference. To many variables tie into all of that and thats what makes roll racing and dig racing completely different. Trap speed at a track doesnt really mean nothing in a roll race unless its something thats a big big difference. I wont say it doesnt matter at all but its not the determining factor like most ppl think That saying anything can happen on the street is definitely true.
10-22-2010, 09:53 PM
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Yank Stall and another tune, the 18s probably killed some of the MPH, I lost right at 2mph when I went to 17s from my stock 16s.
Also what was the DA that day?
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php
Also what was the DA that day?
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php
10-23-2010, 02:11 PM
#18
Give him good DA and he will be 12s. We dont even know what the DA was for this guy yet. If it was good da then maybe theres something wrong but
heres an example...my car in 2265 da...
60'...2.092
1/8...8.580
mph...85.32
1/4...13.197
mph...106.93
My car in -1245 da...
r/t .497
60 1.958
330 5.374
1/8 8.165
mph 88.14
1000 10.586
1/4 12.638
mph 110.04
This is the same modded car
10-23-2010, 02:39 PM
#19
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WOW, I got a 98 Z with Cam only. Granted my car is mini tubbed with a 390 gear in a DANA. But heck I am running 11.94 with a 1.57 60'. Since I have a set of 806 stock no porting heads. I would think he should be a bit faster. Heck I am only running 112.43 MPH.
10-23-2010, 06:17 PM
#20
All depends on the "Density Altitude" as previously posted... My car @ 3000+ da runs 12.9's... @ 1700da it runs 12.60's... @ 500da 12.50's. Have not ran in any better air than that yet. I could easily see a ls1 car with his mods only run mid 13's if the da is 3000+. Rule of thumb is 2.5 tenth reduction for every 1000ft da you drop... but is not exact. My car picks up about that much until I get below 1500 da... traction becomes a issue at that point. Im still making more power, but the street tires wont hold.