subwoofer question
01-13-2011, 01:13 AM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NEW ORLEANS
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
subwoofer question I need help asap should i keep my one 10 which is a puny walmart pioneer and change it or get two punch1 twelves. What sounds better and what would you do thanks!
01-13-2011, 08:37 AM
#4
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Colchester, IL
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello, I'm new to the forum but I think I can help.
When it comes to subwoofers (subs/drivers) the amount of air that is displaced by the driver will result in the amount of bass you get. Obviously 2-12" subs will displace more air than 1-10" sub so it will feel LOUDER simply by the amount of air displaced. But the answer you are looking for may not be loud but rather clarity. 10" drivers can articulate most frequencies better than a larger driver because of the cone surface area being moved by the voice coil. If you could look at the frame structure of 3 different sized drivers, of the same series, from the same manufacturer, you will find that they all use the same structure with a different sized basket based on the size of the woofer. So a 10", 12", and 15" sub will all use the same voice coil, magnet, and tinsel lead (where sound is connected). This means that the same "motor" is driving 3 different sized "vehicles" so obviously the smaller the "vehicle" (ie; the cone structure) the more efficient it will be.
Subwoofers, as well as all speakers in general, are rated by not only power handling but also efficiency. Most subs will be around 88db - 90db with the occasional 92db efficiency. A lot of people get confused by that rating and think that's how loud the speaker is which is somewhat true but that rating is 2 fold. Your efficiency is calculated by applying 1 watt of power and measuring it's output at 1 meter distance. The higher the efficiency number is, the less power you need to achieve the maximum output but in exchange you lose power handling capability. If you have a 1000 watt amplifier and you connect it to a subwoofer with a 92db efficiency with a power handling of 500 watts, you are likely going to end up with a paper weight. "Smart" manufacturers will underrate the power handling of the sub but those same manufacturers also underrate their amplifiers so your choice of combination must be carefully selected.
You also want to decide what you want to achieve with the system. If you're looking to be the loudest guy in town then sell your car, buy an old Geo Metro and invest about $10,000 in a new system. If you're looking for quality sound, usually less is more. Spend your money on a good quality set of components and not on a really expensive sub.
Also, F-Bodys are naturally loud because of the hatchback design. A quality single 10" sub with a small amp will outperform the highs very quickly.
What is the current set up you have as far as the deck (CD Player), the amplifier, the highs, and the size of power wire running to the back and I'll try and help you achieve what you want without spending a ton of money.
When it comes to subwoofers (subs/drivers) the amount of air that is displaced by the driver will result in the amount of bass you get. Obviously 2-12" subs will displace more air than 1-10" sub so it will feel LOUDER simply by the amount of air displaced. But the answer you are looking for may not be loud but rather clarity. 10" drivers can articulate most frequencies better than a larger driver because of the cone surface area being moved by the voice coil. If you could look at the frame structure of 3 different sized drivers, of the same series, from the same manufacturer, you will find that they all use the same structure with a different sized basket based on the size of the woofer. So a 10", 12", and 15" sub will all use the same voice coil, magnet, and tinsel lead (where sound is connected). This means that the same "motor" is driving 3 different sized "vehicles" so obviously the smaller the "vehicle" (ie; the cone structure) the more efficient it will be.
Subwoofers, as well as all speakers in general, are rated by not only power handling but also efficiency. Most subs will be around 88db - 90db with the occasional 92db efficiency. A lot of people get confused by that rating and think that's how loud the speaker is which is somewhat true but that rating is 2 fold. Your efficiency is calculated by applying 1 watt of power and measuring it's output at 1 meter distance. The higher the efficiency number is, the less power you need to achieve the maximum output but in exchange you lose power handling capability. If you have a 1000 watt amplifier and you connect it to a subwoofer with a 92db efficiency with a power handling of 500 watts, you are likely going to end up with a paper weight. "Smart" manufacturers will underrate the power handling of the sub but those same manufacturers also underrate their amplifiers so your choice of combination must be carefully selected.
You also want to decide what you want to achieve with the system. If you're looking to be the loudest guy in town then sell your car, buy an old Geo Metro and invest about $10,000 in a new system. If you're looking for quality sound, usually less is more. Spend your money on a good quality set of components and not on a really expensive sub.
Also, F-Bodys are naturally loud because of the hatchback design. A quality single 10" sub with a small amp will outperform the highs very quickly.
What is the current set up you have as far as the deck (CD Player), the amplifier, the highs, and the size of power wire running to the back and I'll try and help you achieve what you want without spending a ton of money.
01-13-2011, 09:18 AM
#5
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NEW ORLEANS
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
subwoofer Hello, I'm new to the forum but I think I can help.
When it comes to subwoofers (subs/drivers) the amount of air that is displaced by the driver will result in the amount of bass you get. Obviously 2-12" subs will displace more air than 1-10" sub so it will feel LOUDER simply by the amount of air displaced. But the answer you are looking for may not be loud but rather clarity. 10" drivers can articulate most frequencies better than a larger driver because of the cone surface area being moved by the voice coil. If you could look at the frame structure of 3 different sized drivers, of the same series, from the same manufacturer, you will find that they all use the same structure with a different sized basket based on the size of the woofer. So a 10", 12", and 15" sub will all use the same voice coil, magnet, and tinsel lead (where sound is connected). This means that the same "motor" is driving 3 different sized "vehicles" so obviously the smaller the "vehicle" (ie; the cone structure) the more efficient it will be.
Subwoofers, as well as all speakers in general, are rated by not only power handling but also efficiency. Most subs will be around 88db - 90db with the occasional 92db efficiency. A lot of people get confused by that rating and think that's how loud the speaker is which is somewhat true but that rating is 2 fold. Your efficiency is calculated by applying 1 watt of power and measuring it's output at 1 meter distance. The higher the efficiency number is, the less power you need to achieve the maximum output but in exchange you lose power handling capability. If you have a 1000 watt amplifier and you connect it to a subwoofer with a 92db efficiency with a power handling of 500 watts, you are likely going to end up with a paper weight. "Smart" manufacturers will underrate the power handling of the sub but those same manufacturers also underrate their amplifiers so your choice of combination must be carefully selected.
You also want to decide what you want to achieve with the system. If you're looking to be the loudest guy in town then sell your car, buy an old Geo Metro and invest about $10,000 in a new system. If you're looking for quality sound, usually less is more. Spend your money on a good quality set of components and not on a really expensive sub.
Also, F-Bodys are naturally loud because of the hatchback design. A quality single 10" sub with a small amp will outperform the highs very quickly.
What is the current set up you have as far as the deck (CD Player), the amplifier, the highs, and the size of power wire running to the back and I'll try and help you achieve what you want without spending a ton of money.
When it comes to subwoofers (subs/drivers) the amount of air that is displaced by the driver will result in the amount of bass you get. Obviously 2-12" subs will displace more air than 1-10" sub so it will feel LOUDER simply by the amount of air displaced. But the answer you are looking for may not be loud but rather clarity. 10" drivers can articulate most frequencies better than a larger driver because of the cone surface area being moved by the voice coil. If you could look at the frame structure of 3 different sized drivers, of the same series, from the same manufacturer, you will find that they all use the same structure with a different sized basket based on the size of the woofer. So a 10", 12", and 15" sub will all use the same voice coil, magnet, and tinsel lead (where sound is connected). This means that the same "motor" is driving 3 different sized "vehicles" so obviously the smaller the "vehicle" (ie; the cone structure) the more efficient it will be.
Subwoofers, as well as all speakers in general, are rated by not only power handling but also efficiency. Most subs will be around 88db - 90db with the occasional 92db efficiency. A lot of people get confused by that rating and think that's how loud the speaker is which is somewhat true but that rating is 2 fold. Your efficiency is calculated by applying 1 watt of power and measuring it's output at 1 meter distance. The higher the efficiency number is, the less power you need to achieve the maximum output but in exchange you lose power handling capability. If you have a 1000 watt amplifier and you connect it to a subwoofer with a 92db efficiency with a power handling of 500 watts, you are likely going to end up with a paper weight. "Smart" manufacturers will underrate the power handling of the sub but those same manufacturers also underrate their amplifiers so your choice of combination must be carefully selected.
You also want to decide what you want to achieve with the system. If you're looking to be the loudest guy in town then sell your car, buy an old Geo Metro and invest about $10,000 in a new system. If you're looking for quality sound, usually less is more. Spend your money on a good quality set of components and not on a really expensive sub.
Also, F-Bodys are naturally loud because of the hatchback design. A quality single 10" sub with a small amp will outperform the highs very quickly.
What is the current set up you have as far as the deck (CD Player), the amplifier, the highs, and the size of power wire running to the back and I'll try and help you achieve what you want without spending a ton of money.
01-13-2011, 09:21 AM
#6
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you trying to get louder or go for sound quality? As said, a quality 10" will sound good with the right box and correct power to it. A single 10" will also allow you to keep your ttop well available since you can fit the sub in a stealth box.
Trending Topics
01-13-2011, 10:23 AM
#8
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Look into a stealth setup for a 10" and get a decent amp to push the sub. Lot of people have those setups and they could tell you a good pairing to use, I've never had a stealth box so my input would be just what I've read/heard from others and I'm sure you'd rather hear first hand knowledge.
01-13-2011, 10:29 AM
#9
I've got infinity kappa 6.5 with components in the doors, infinity kappa 6.5 In the sail panels, same 6x9 in the rear hatch with 2 kicker cvr 12's they are dual voice coil. Oh it definetly gets the job done. Oh the small speakers run through a 1000 watt four channel performance teknique amp. And the subs get 2400 through a performance teknique monoblock. And all that to a clarion eq and pioneer crossover to a Jensen in dash DVD. Only thing that is missing is a epicenter for more bass tuning.
01-13-2011, 04:02 PM
#10
Teching In
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Port Orchard, WA
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got a pair of Alpine R12s powered by an Alpine M-1000 mono amp. I would much rather have a 15" and a 10" because I love the extreme bass the 15" can deliver but I don't want to lose that lower-mid-bass. I'm pretty happy with mine. 2 12's beats 1 10 any day.
01-13-2011, 10:31 PM
#11
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not necessarily. A lot of factors come in to play and for sound quality a 10" would compliment average speakers and not drown them out as much as two 12's may. And are you talking about running both a 10" and 15" at the same time..?
01-14-2011, 10:21 AM
#14
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Stockton, CA
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
theres nothing wrong with pioneer I think they make pretty good subs in terms of quality get a good box decent amp...a turtle shell or monoblock, a box maybe from q-logic or MTX is fine and just have good component..I have 2- 12's in a Q-logic box custom..(paid 145.00 for the box only) on my vert and to tell you the truth it rattles the living **** outta my vert trunk and my brothers hardtop..Now my brother has a type R 10 inch with those ebay single box behind the driver side. and it sounds 10x cleaner than my 2- 12's on low to mid volume but I just blow him away with mine being louder.
01-16-2011, 08:31 AM
#19
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If it's a true 1500w then make sure you at least do the Big 3 to help with your electrical. And if you continue to see voltage drop look into upgrading some stuff, but you should only see a noticeable drop when playing full tilt.