what mod first
#1
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what mod first
i recently went to a casino with 3 friends and came out with 400 more dollares ..im lookin to spend it on suspension. the only thing i wont get is lowering springs *3 inch true duals are low*. so what suspension stuff should i get first? and why..
thank you!!
thank you!!
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The best way to start is to get some subframe connectors. Next, I'd upgrade to some good shocks. Then it would be lower control arms.
We could give better advice if you told us what your plans were for your car. Drag only, autox, street? Good handling but not extreme. You know, stuff like that.
We could give better advice if you told us what your plans were for your car. Drag only, autox, street? Good handling but not extreme. You know, stuff like that.
#6
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Originally Posted by tuffluck
shocks and springs. lower that bad boy.
Guess we missed the "reading" part....
"i recently went to a casino with 3 friends and came out with 400 more dollares ..im lookin to spend it on suspension. the only thing i wont get is lowering springs *3 inch true duals are low*. so what suspension stuff should i get first? and why.."
STB, SFC, PHB. The first 2 will stiffen the chassis so the suspension can work more effectively. The PHB will keep the rear from "doing it's own thing" in corners, making the car feel that much better.
My thoughts.
What are you doing with the car? Drag, autocross, street, etc?
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Sub-frame connectors...get the car stiffened up, then start bolting on the performance goodies.
I always recommend LG Motorsports suspension products. Do it right the first time. You will pay more up front, but less in the long run.
I always recommend LG Motorsports suspension products. Do it right the first time. You will pay more up front, but less in the long run.
#12
Sub-frame connectors for sure... maybe a decent set of LCAs to go with them. You will also want to invest in good shocks & springs (don't need to be of the lowering variety, try something like the SLP bilstein setup), and eventually a panhard and torque arm. I'd also say a bigger front sway bar and some poly bushings/endlinks for the front and rear sways.
Hmmm... all of a sudden that goes way past $400!!!
Hmmm... all of a sudden that goes way past $400!!!
#13
SFC's for sure but that's more of a chasis upgrade
than suspension. LCA's are OK but you'll get a
much bigger gain from a front sway bar and you can
get a good one for about the same money if not cheaper.
Do a search before you decide.
than suspension. LCA's are OK but you'll get a
much bigger gain from a front sway bar and you can
get a good one for about the same money if not cheaper.
Do a search before you decide.
#15
It's funny how some people start off all engine performance, whereas others like myself started out all suspension.
You say daily driver but not for winter... well if your a careful daily driver.. I'd soo recommend Nitto DRs, completely changed my car. ~$320ish
If you have a bad case of wheelhop.... LCAs.... LG G2 poly/rod killed my hop... ~$200
Subframes.... yup.... I could tell they helped out in turns and lane changes... ~$160 installed
I also got a PHB, but don't really see the point in it unless you lower / really crazy in the corners.
Shocks make a WORLD of difference... but you're talking a good $400+ on those bad boys.
You say daily driver but not for winter... well if your a careful daily driver.. I'd soo recommend Nitto DRs, completely changed my car. ~$320ish
If you have a bad case of wheelhop.... LCAs.... LG G2 poly/rod killed my hop... ~$200
Subframes.... yup.... I could tell they helped out in turns and lane changes... ~$160 installed
I also got a PHB, but don't really see the point in it unless you lower / really crazy in the corners.
Shocks make a WORLD of difference... but you're talking a good $400+ on those bad boys.
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Of all my suspension mods, the biggest change I noticed came from SFC's. I noticed my suspension now doing more of the work rather than the chassis flexing, if that makes sense. IMO, its a must on these cars unless you have some racing restrictions preventing you from installing them. If you've ever driven in a high mileage f-body with T-tops you'll know what I mean.
I also noticed an improvement with a good "performance" alignment. Some slightly negative camber (maybe -.5 for a DD) and some more positive caster really helped my high speed stability.
I also noticed an improvement with a good "performance" alignment. Some slightly negative camber (maybe -.5 for a DD) and some more positive caster really helped my high speed stability.