LQ4 Blazer Rod knock/rebuild
02-02-2011, 12:46 PM
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LQ4 Blazer Rod knock/rebuild A little background info on my build…
Bought an LQ4 out of a 2003 Silverado 2500 HD with a used 4L60E out of a 2500 express van for 900 bucks! Thought I was doing pretty good and decided to put this in a 2002 4 door blazer for a daily driver intending to do a few runs at the local track. As far as the motor goes, I tore down the top end and replaced the cam XR265HR-15 (212/218 .558/.563 115lsa), push rods (trick flow 7.4 rods), all gaskets I could get to , timing chain, H3 oil pan to fit the blazer cross member, and put on an LS6 Intake with injectors. Everything else as far as the motor goes was left stock. As far as the 4L60E went, I did a trans-go HD-2 shift kit and installed corvette servos. To keep it cool I used a Long's Tru-Cool 40K GVWR Trans Cooler. A custom radiator and twin cooler fans was installed as well as sanderson headers and a magnaflow exhaust. I was really happy with the outcome and smiled every time I started it up for a drive.
Now after the long intro, I have a rod knock… or what seems to be a rod knock.
I was driving down the highway at around 65-70 mph and started to hear a ticking sound. I looked down and noticed my oil pressure around 20 psi. I pulled over and stopped it and towed it back to my house. Oil has tiny specks of shavings in it, and I still haven’t got to do my first oil change. Now I realize that this could be a lifter, or bearings… probably bearings, but after I got shavings all over the inside of the motor I figured I should do a complete teardown and rebuild it. This was my first build and it now sucks that I am pulling it out before I even reached 200 miles.
As of right this second I really don’t have any questions because I haven’t pulled it out yet, I am on my way into the garage now. Once I find the culprit, I will be looking for suggestions on what should be done as I have never touched the lower end of a motor. Once I get it tore apart ill post pics and look for insight from the professionals.
Bought an LQ4 out of a 2003 Silverado 2500 HD with a used 4L60E out of a 2500 express van for 900 bucks! Thought I was doing pretty good and decided to put this in a 2002 4 door blazer for a daily driver intending to do a few runs at the local track. As far as the motor goes, I tore down the top end and replaced the cam XR265HR-15 (212/218 .558/.563 115lsa), push rods (trick flow 7.4 rods), all gaskets I could get to , timing chain, H3 oil pan to fit the blazer cross member, and put on an LS6 Intake with injectors. Everything else as far as the motor goes was left stock. As far as the 4L60E went, I did a trans-go HD-2 shift kit and installed corvette servos. To keep it cool I used a Long's Tru-Cool 40K GVWR Trans Cooler. A custom radiator and twin cooler fans was installed as well as sanderson headers and a magnaflow exhaust. I was really happy with the outcome and smiled every time I started it up for a drive.
Now after the long intro, I have a rod knock… or what seems to be a rod knock.
I was driving down the highway at around 65-70 mph and started to hear a ticking sound. I looked down and noticed my oil pressure around 20 psi. I pulled over and stopped it and towed it back to my house. Oil has tiny specks of shavings in it, and I still haven’t got to do my first oil change. Now I realize that this could be a lifter, or bearings… probably bearings, but after I got shavings all over the inside of the motor I figured I should do a complete teardown and rebuild it. This was my first build and it now sucks that I am pulling it out before I even reached 200 miles.
As of right this second I really don’t have any questions because I haven’t pulled it out yet, I am on my way into the garage now. Once I find the culprit, I will be looking for suggestions on what should be done as I have never touched the lower end of a motor. Once I get it tore apart ill post pics and look for insight from the professionals.
Last edited by xxcov3rxx; 03-03-2011 at 08:32 PM.
02-02-2011, 05:13 PM
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Motor is out and after dinner i will tear down the bottom end. I made some beginner mistakes and i guess thats how i am going to learn. Pics tell a thousand words...
Last edited by xxcov3rxx; 03-03-2011 at 08:32 PM.
02-02-2011, 11:37 PM
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found the main problem...
So from here i guess i just need help with the direction that i need to take this in. I am going to see if i can get the crank reground along with the rods and if that doesn't work its back to the drawing board.
i plan on a new oil pump, lifters, lifter guides, and all bearings replaced. is there anything else or any suggestions that anyone might have that would help for performance or longevity?
So from here i guess i just need help with the direction that i need to take this in. I am going to see if i can get the crank reground along with the rods and if that doesn't work its back to the drawing board.
i plan on a new oil pump, lifters, lifter guides, and all bearings replaced. is there anything else or any suggestions that anyone might have that would help for performance or longevity?
Last edited by xxcov3rxx; 03-03-2011 at 08:33 PM.
02-03-2011, 03:43 AM
#4
Sorry to hear about that man,that's a sweet blazer though,look into Clevite H rod and main bearings,also Katech rod bolts,we all learn some how,usally by breaking stuff lol,when ya get that truck running again let us know what it runs,kinda of a sleeper lol
02-03-2011, 07:01 AM
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Ohh she was a sleeper! nice and quiet at idle with the dual 2.5" magnaflow 30" muffler and can be loud anytime i want with DMH cutouts. Thanks for the advice! i really haven't ever needed to post here till now. everything else i have found by searching.
and 20x8 and 20x9 irocs are in the future 255/35 front and 285/30 rear!!
and 20x8 and 20x9 irocs are in the future 255/35 front and 285/30 rear!!
