02firehawkT/A

iTrader: (2)

Sup guys. I'm really thinking about throwing a cam into my Firehawk in the near future and then leaving it alone for good. I'm not gonna be going to a huge cam, but not a baby cam either- something in the middle that will for the most part keep driveability the same but add a good amount of power. The cars running the 4L60e, and I'm wondering if I'll need to put money into the drivetrain/tranny for the added power? My goal would be to hit around 380-400 rwhp with the cam and mods in my sig. I know this is possible because there are so many good mild cams out there these days. Any reccomendations you guys think I would need so I don't have to jump off a building after my rear end breaks? Lol.. car is a street car BTW.. no track around me but I do get on it a lot on the freeways and do a (probably not good) good amount of street racing.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Abuse anything, and you will find yourself going broke. Do you need to upgrade your drivetrain? No. Is it a good idea? yes. Just remember our cars rearends cant even hold stock horsepower without puking their brains out. But some get lucky. Now you adding power will most def. put more stress on drivetrain parts. Theres no doubt about it. It will be only a matter of time before something fails.

02firehawkT/A

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice. Does this include the limited-slip 3.23's that came on the Firehawks?

Basically my question is this: is it highly reccomended for a cam-only/bolt on f-body to have transmission/drivetrain upgrades? And if so what are the first things that should be done?

I understand that it is always a good idea to upgrade- but the thing is I'm on a budget. Basically, it is isn't highly reccomended for it to be done.. it ain't getting done. Also consider this: the car is an A4 which is much less harsh on the rear, plus I very very rarely ever launch from a dig as I don't race at a track ().

Quick Sh0t xMLx

The rear end will probably be alright especially since you don't race at the track but the stock 4L60E is going to take a **** on you.

00MaroonZ28

iTrader: (3)

The rear end will be fine. The autos aren't nearly as hard on it as a manual. 4l60's are turds. I'd look into a built one down the road, but you should be ok for a while depending on how many miles are on it right now.

02firehawkT/A

iTrader: (2)

I'm coming up on 88k miles on the auto. That being said, it does shift perfectly without any problems whatsoever. What would you guys reccomend for a build and how much does it typically cost?

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Does a bear **** in the woods?

JK JK If you don't beat the heck out of the car after the cam you "should" be ok for a while. Start stompin on the fun pedal and you can kiss that trans goodbye sooner than later.

dannyz

Not always.
28 bottles of nitrous here, 1.65-1.71 60' times for 11's going on 4 years now. 423.5 rwhp.
Get a good tranny cooler, regular fluid changes, don't delete tq mgmt, and keep your shift points at 6,000 rpms.
Should last for some time, assuming your trans is in good shape to begin with.
Now, to get the full benefit of a larger cam, your gonna have to spin a bit past the stock shift points.
Lot of folks seem to start having their issues once that engine starts seeing 6500 + rpms on a regular basis.

02firehawkT/A

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info.. I would keep the shift points around 6k. I don't need to spin the engine into oblivion, like I said my plans for it are to be primarily a sleeper for the street with a small/medium sized cam. Are you on the stock rear also?

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I had my cam and stall installed at 94k. Since, the car just recently turned 100k. I have a 230 cam, a tci 3500 stall, and the best trans cooler I could find. I have currently had no problems. However, my car hasn't seen the track. I do play in it whenever I get it out, but its mostly babied. Shift point is set at 6700.

The factory 4l60 is definately not the best. I do think though if you drive with some sense, and stay on top of maintenance, that it will hold up and give you enough time to atleast save for another one.

dannyz

Yessir, I am on the stock 10 bolt.
Gears have been changed from the original 2.73's to 3.42's.
Thats it though.

dnkynrbk

iTrader: (34)

I would do 3:42 gears and get a lv2 4l60e from performabuilt.

David Q

Stock trans and rear end will last as long as the tires are spinning. It will be hard on the wheel bearings though. Parts usually dont start breaking until you start running slicks or good DR's.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

This is also true. Even with my mild setup, the stall blows the tires off pretty easy. My buddy took his to the track and had never had any problems unitl he used someones 26" slicks. He didn't make it past the 60'..

dannyz

Hard on wheel bearings????
Lmao.

dannyz

His wheel bearings failed after using 26" slicks?
And just how did that happen?

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I was talking about the rear..

Anniversary "Z"

iTrader: (26)

If your getting a cam, don't forget a valve spring upgrade and I'd say get a stall (3500ish) T/A Girdle to help your rear last and start setting $$ aside for the tranny.

4L60's are junk!!! I used to have a boneyard full of them til the price of aluminum went up I love my th400

David Q

It sure is, smoking the tires down all the time sure is hard on a set of bearings, but if it hooks say good by to a ring and pinion.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Get a good trans cooler and tune and they should last a long long time.

Auto rear ends will take you a long way, especially if you don't go to the track it should last as long as any other rear. Trans is a toss up but if it is in good shape now chances are you will get another 25k+ as long as you take care of it.