TDC and Lash?'s
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TDC and Lash?'s
Hey everyone, currently the heads are getting worked on at the shop, in the mean time is it ok to spray fogging oil over the block and cover up with plastic bags so i wont see rust?
Now i didnt do anything specific to the crank the engine to a specific position before i started tear down when replacing the headgasket. Im reading about how to set lash on shbox's website (http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves) he mentions about each cylinder being at TDC. I have no idea how to go about doing this. I just thought it was going to be as easy as setting the valves to 0 lash, lube them up and putting the covers back on.
Thanks for any help
Now i didnt do anything specific to the crank the engine to a specific position before i started tear down when replacing the headgasket. Im reading about how to set lash on shbox's website (http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves) he mentions about each cylinder being at TDC. I have no idea how to go about doing this. I just thought it was going to be as easy as setting the valves to 0 lash, lube them up and putting the covers back on.
Thanks for any help
#2
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Perfectly fine to use fogging oil just as long as you clean it off the deck, cylinders and pan rails before applying gaskets.
There are several methods to adjust valves. One is to have all cylinders at TDC and adjust both intake/exhaust, however that can be tedious and really is not necessary. The other method is to put number 1 at TDC and adjust certain valves, do one revolution and adjust the rest (as numbered on shoebox's website) and another is EOIC. I made a video that pertains mostly to adjusting a solid roller application, but the concept is still the same for a hyd. roller as specified in the video:
http://youtu.be/VPOaAsuzhsE
There are several methods to adjust valves. One is to have all cylinders at TDC and adjust both intake/exhaust, however that can be tedious and really is not necessary. The other method is to put number 1 at TDC and adjust certain valves, do one revolution and adjust the rest (as numbered on shoebox's website) and another is EOIC. I made a video that pertains mostly to adjusting a solid roller application, but the concept is still the same for a hyd. roller as specified in the video:
http://youtu.be/VPOaAsuzhsE
#3
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Maybe a stupid question but im gonna start off slow with your vid, which again i appreciate by the way. To use the remote start, do i need to put all the spark plugs and wires back together along with the exhaust manifolds?
My other stupid question, whats the difference between an exhaust lifter and an intake rocker arm?
Thanks Brian
My other stupid question, whats the difference between an exhaust lifter and an intake rocker arm?
Thanks Brian
#4
an intake rocker is is a rocker arm on the intake side of the piston/valve/cylinder you are working on, an exhaust lifter is a lifter (between the camshaft lobe and pushrod) on the exhaust side.
weather these are what he means, no clue, but thats what they are lol
weather these are what he means, no clue, but thats what they are lol
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so i believe i have finally figured out the difference, on the driver side starting at the number 1 cylinder, it basically goes exhaust, intake, exhaust, intake right?
What do you guys think of this video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI
What do you guys think of this video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI
#7
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OK check this out......here's your easiest way to do this........turn the motor over by hand or with a bump button.......start with cyl number one......when the exhaust valve begins to open do your lash on the intake valve.....when the intake valve begins to return from full lift/open do the lash on the exhaust valve...........this will ensure that you are on the dead bottom of the lobe and it will also be the easiest thing to look at at do