Poor Driveability after cam install = Bigger hole in throttle blde?
#1
Poor Driveability after cam install = Bigger hole in throttle blde?
Hey whats up everybody, I just installed a Comp Cam 224/230 on a 114LSA .581/ .588 Lift. I have driven the car a few times and when I am driving it seems fine but as soon as i get to a stop light the car wants to stall on me and i have to foot brake it and keep it at 1000RPM. Also after i have it parked and then go to reverse out of a spot it also wants to stall out. When i have it in park it idles just fine. My question is should i drill a slightly bigger hole in the throttle blade or will tuning be a better solution? I thought a 224/230 wasnt a huge cam but i might be wrong so i'm hopin someone with experience can give me some good advice. Also who is a good, quick turn around tuner? I was thinking texas speed because they will update the tune within a year for free (because i have a vigilante 3600 stall thats gettin installed later.) Anyway thanks in advance for the help I know somoene on here got some good advice.
#3
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Hey whats up everybody, I just installed a Comp Cam 224/230 on a 114LSA .581/ .588 Lift. I have driven the car a few times and when I am driving it seems fine but as soon as i get to a stop light the car wants to stall on me and i have to foot brake it and keep it at 1000RPM. Also after i have it parked and then go to reverse out of a spot it also wants to stall out. When i have it in park it idles just fine. My question is should i drill a slightly bigger hole in the throttle blade or will tuning be a better solution? I thought a 224/230 wasnt a huge cam but i might be wrong so i'm hopin someone with experience can give me some good advice. Also who is a good, quick turn around tuner? I was thinking texas speed because they will update the tune within a year for free (because i have a vigilante 3600 stall thats gettin installed later.) Anyway thanks in advance for the help I know somoene on here got some good advice.
#4
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1) If the car hasn't been tuned, I would be VERY careful driving it because the timing needs and fueling needs of a cam'd vehicle are significantly different from stock. You can damage your engine!
2) The right parts working together go a long way. Stock converters weren't meant to work with an after market cam that requires higher RPMs to idle. If it's tuned and you're still on the stock converter, you'll likely get a nice "thud" everytime you put the car in gear due to the tight nature of the stock converter.
My advice is, get the converter installed and get the car tuned first. If you have to drive it, do so while being very soft on the throttle (i.e. less than 25% throttle).
2) The right parts working together go a long way. Stock converters weren't meant to work with an after market cam that requires higher RPMs to idle. If it's tuned and you're still on the stock converter, you'll likely get a nice "thud" everytime you put the car in gear due to the tight nature of the stock converter.
My advice is, get the converter installed and get the car tuned first. If you have to drive it, do so while being very soft on the throttle (i.e. less than 25% throttle).
#5
I guess im goin to get mail order tune for now unless dyno shop, ost in portersville pa can get me in for next week. on a side note a hear some sewing machine action in my valve covers. i used 7.4 inch pushrods but im wondering if i should have went longer like 7.425"