TUET 11009 T56 Magnum Installed in 02 Camaro
#1
TUET 11009 T56 Magnum Installed in 02 Camaro
A while back I was evaluating options for a 6 speed on my car as I was building up the motor. I had an LS6 383 built with forged internals and the intentions of spraying to about 550whp. This was all going into a 2002 Z28 that already had a T56, but with all the hype about a T56 magnum withstanding 700hp out of the box, I decided to do some research. Well, it doesn't bolt directly in is what I was told... and a 98-02 fbody requires the tail of the transmission be changed. Challenge accepted.
My 2002 Z28 now has 1000 miles on the fresh new motor and a brand new TUET11009 (with unmodified tail housing!) Some modifications were required, but not to the transmission itself! Here's a parts list:
TUET 11009 and yoke for DS from Amp Performance - $2909 shipped freight
Custom shifter (to move shifter back 2") - $250
Ford speedometer harness - $40
Dakota Digital Speedometer recalibration unit SGI-5 - $95
Total (before cut DS) - $3300!
It's certainly not bolt in, but I had to do only a few minor things to make this work.
1. I had to cut a small section of my floor to access the front bolt holes for the new 6 bolt shifter.
2. I had to wallow (sp) out the hole for the trans cross member forward maybe a 1/2".
3. I had to correct the speedometer reading. It read about 2/3 the actual speed with 275/40r18 tires and the original 3.42 gears. The Dakota Digital item was easy to use and I got calibration dead on in no time!
4. Cut driveshaft and have new yoke installed on transmission side. I'd have to check, but I believe my final length was 41.5" from seal to surface...
Guys, it works! I corrected my pinion angle with a $10 angle finder and a UMI adjustable torque arm, and I'm good! The transmission isn't night and day in shifting vs the T56, but it does feel better and I know it can handle the power!
I'm not here to say it's better than the rebuild kits out there, but it's not impossible and it can be more cost effective to use a common TUET11009 or TUET11012 rather than the FBody specific Magnum. I took tons of pics and documented the whole thing, so let me know if you have any questions!
My 2002 Z28 now has 1000 miles on the fresh new motor and a brand new TUET11009 (with unmodified tail housing!) Some modifications were required, but not to the transmission itself! Here's a parts list:
TUET 11009 and yoke for DS from Amp Performance - $2909 shipped freight
Custom shifter (to move shifter back 2") - $250
Ford speedometer harness - $40
Dakota Digital Speedometer recalibration unit SGI-5 - $95
Total (before cut DS) - $3300!
It's certainly not bolt in, but I had to do only a few minor things to make this work.
1. I had to cut a small section of my floor to access the front bolt holes for the new 6 bolt shifter.
2. I had to wallow (sp) out the hole for the trans cross member forward maybe a 1/2".
3. I had to correct the speedometer reading. It read about 2/3 the actual speed with 275/40r18 tires and the original 3.42 gears. The Dakota Digital item was easy to use and I got calibration dead on in no time!
4. Cut driveshaft and have new yoke installed on transmission side. I'd have to check, but I believe my final length was 41.5" from seal to surface...
Guys, it works! I corrected my pinion angle with a $10 angle finder and a UMI adjustable torque arm, and I'm good! The transmission isn't night and day in shifting vs the T56, but it does feel better and I know it can handle the power!
I'm not here to say it's better than the rebuild kits out there, but it's not impossible and it can be more cost effective to use a common TUET11009 or TUET11012 rather than the FBody specific Magnum. I took tons of pics and documented the whole thing, so let me know if you have any questions!
#3
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I'd rather go with the F body specific T56 Magnum. I did one for a guy last year for about $500 more and it was plug and play. This was in a TT GTO and the guy got to reuse his after market shift in the car with no mods at all.
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#10
My stock driveshaft was about 1.7" too long, I had to have it cut for the new yoke. *Enter magnum/shaft length joke here*
#12
Edit: Just called, it could be that the shifter if bottoming out in the cup, causing an overly firm feel. I've got a few other projects in line to be completed before testing this, but Red suggested I loosen all 6 bolts to see if it becomes softer. If so, the body was machined differently and can be remedied with a swap. Thanks for the reply, Billy!
Last edited by themealonwheels; 02-10-2012 at 10:22 AM.
#15
Anyway, I now run the stock shifter (which feels great!) with a block of aluminum for a 2" offset back. It required that I cut my upper console to allow for shifts to 1,3,5 and R, but frankly, it's just nice to be able to enjoy my car again! I may plastic weld a plate in to cover the small hole, but whatever
#16
On The Tree
iTrader: (8)
Oh look at that, guess I could have updated... I ended up sending the slik stik back to Amp in AZ, who subsequently sent it to McLeod. They said they fixed it, basically the shifter was binding on itself. Off the car, I couldn't even get it to "reverse" because the springs were binding.
Anyway, I now run the stock shifter (which feels great!) with a block of aluminum for a 2" offset back. It required that I cut my upper console to allow for shifts to 1,3,5 and R, but frankly, it's just nice to be able to enjoy my car again! I may plastic weld a plate in to cover the small hole, but whatever
Anyway, I now run the stock shifter (which feels great!) with a block of aluminum for a 2" offset back. It required that I cut my upper console to allow for shifts to 1,3,5 and R, but frankly, it's just nice to be able to enjoy my car again! I may plastic weld a plate in to cover the small hole, but whatever
#17
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (28)
I put this T56 Magnum into my LS7 powered RX-7 with the same shifter (further rear offset). The TR6060 internals shift light years better than ANY '93-02 or GTO transmission I've ever driven. Loving mine with about 500 miles on it. The shifter is damn nice too.
Reverse you need to get the pigtail wire to make it work so the solenoid helps you put it into gear. Without it... you'll be doing the 2 handed method.
Also has provisions for mechanical or electronic (VSS) speedo output signal.
Reverse you need to get the pigtail wire to make it work so the solenoid helps you put it into gear. Without it... you'll be doing the 2 handed method.
Also has provisions for mechanical or electronic (VSS) speedo output signal.
#18
im currently swapping this set up in. didnt need to do anything other than order the same shifter (offset 3.480" straight backwards) and put on a UMI torque arm relocation bracket (and a few other goodies not required). however there are some wires that dont hook up and a few other questions. sent you a PM
I put this T56 Magnum into my LS7 powered RX-7 with the same shifter (further rear offset). The TR6060 internals shift light years better than ANY '93-02 or GTO transmission I've ever driven. Loving mine with about 500 miles on it. The shifter is damn nice too.
Reverse you need to get the pigtail wire to make it work so the solenoid helps you put it into gear. Without it... you'll be doing the 2 handed method.
Also has provisions for mechanical or electronic (VSS) speedo output signal.
Reverse you need to get the pigtail wire to make it work so the solenoid helps you put it into gear. Without it... you'll be doing the 2 handed method.
Also has provisions for mechanical or electronic (VSS) speedo output signal.
#19
I wanted to bump this for an update, sort of a testimonial to the transmission's strength.
If you look back, I mention a driveshaft slung on the dyno at the top of fourth gear with this tranny on a stock bellhousing. The driveshaft did tons of damage, including a shattered bellhousing. I believed that after a year of continued driving on the untouched T56 magnum, I was starting to hear a grinding noise from the output shaft. So I pulled the tranny and sent it to TDP for a rebuild.
Well here's the news, the tranny is on it's way back with NO repairs! The grinding turned out to be from the calipers in the front (misdiagnosis on my part, d'oh!) and the output/input shafts were within factory spec of straightness!
So a stock T56 magnum survived a thrown driveshaft at the top of fourth gear and a shattered bellhousing... WOW!
Also, I keep getting requests for wiring help on the Dakota Digital speedo conversion box. I'll try to take time and get something written up or pictures taken while I'm under it in the coming days.
If you look back, I mention a driveshaft slung on the dyno at the top of fourth gear with this tranny on a stock bellhousing. The driveshaft did tons of damage, including a shattered bellhousing. I believed that after a year of continued driving on the untouched T56 magnum, I was starting to hear a grinding noise from the output shaft. So I pulled the tranny and sent it to TDP for a rebuild.
Well here's the news, the tranny is on it's way back with NO repairs! The grinding turned out to be from the calipers in the front (misdiagnosis on my part, d'oh!) and the output/input shafts were within factory spec of straightness!
So a stock T56 magnum survived a thrown driveshaft at the top of fourth gear and a shattered bellhousing... WOW!
Also, I keep getting requests for wiring help on the Dakota Digital speedo conversion box. I'll try to take time and get something written up or pictures taken while I'm under it in the coming days.