Man, what control arms do I want? Too Manu to choose
07-02-2011, 07:13 PM
#1
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Man, what control arms do I want? Too Manu to choose 02 SS, lowered on eibach prokit 342rwhp/360rwtq. Have terrible wheel hop now, need to get relo brackets and LCA's.
Problem is which ones do I want?? I want to take it to the track every now and then but mainly street driving.
Tubular, non tubular, adjustable and which kind of ends?
Too many to choose from. I want the best bang for my buck! Which ones and brands?
Problem is which ones do I want?? I want to take it to the track every now and then but mainly street driving.
Tubular, non tubular, adjustable and which kind of ends?
Too many to choose from. I want the best bang for my buck! Which ones and brands?
07-02-2011, 07:39 PM
#2
Quick description of the end types:
Polyurethane; stiffer than the stock rubber, they'll prevent bushing deflection but not bushing bind. Good for mostly street cars that might see a little track use now and again.
Rod-ends; eliminates just about any suspension bind present, and won't deflect at all. The best pick for all-out performance applications; they do transmit more road noise and vibration, and will clunk (sometimes horribly) when they need to be replaced, which isn't infrequently on a street car.
Roto-Joint/etc; basically a rebuildable rod end with less NVH transmission. Supposedly the best pick for someone who wants the maximum performance without the cons of rod-ends. Can be rebuilt once they wear out, and the tension can be adjusted somewhat to be tighter or looser. Some rumours of them requiring almost constant attention, as they like to loosen up pretty quickly.
As far as adjustable vs not, you might not need adjustables, but it never hurts to have them. With rear LCAs, it will allow you to adjust the axle's location fore and aft, allowing better centering of the wheel in the wheelwell - sometimes an issue for lowered guys, or guys running bigger/wider rear tires.
I'd say tubular adjustable with poly bushings.
Polyurethane; stiffer than the stock rubber, they'll prevent bushing deflection but not bushing bind. Good for mostly street cars that might see a little track use now and again.
Rod-ends; eliminates just about any suspension bind present, and won't deflect at all. The best pick for all-out performance applications; they do transmit more road noise and vibration, and will clunk (sometimes horribly) when they need to be replaced, which isn't infrequently on a street car.
Roto-Joint/etc; basically a rebuildable rod end with less NVH transmission. Supposedly the best pick for someone who wants the maximum performance without the cons of rod-ends. Can be rebuilt once they wear out, and the tension can be adjusted somewhat to be tighter or looser. Some rumours of them requiring almost constant attention, as they like to loosen up pretty quickly.
As far as adjustable vs not, you might not need adjustables, but it never hurts to have them. With rear LCAs, it will allow you to adjust the axle's location fore and aft, allowing better centering of the wheel in the wheelwell - sometimes an issue for lowered guys, or guys running bigger/wider rear tires.
I'd say tubular adjustable with poly bushings.
07-05-2011, 12:43 PM
#5
I would recommend the non-adjustable lower control arms with polyurethane bushings for your application. Since the vehicle is mostly street driven these are a good choice. Combine them with a set of relocation brackets and will notice a huge reduction in wheel hop.
I posted two links below to take a look at. I hope this helps!
www.umiperformance.com/2015
www.umiperformance.com/2012
I posted two links below to take a look at. I hope this helps!
www.umiperformance.com/2015
www.umiperformance.com/2012
07-06-2011, 05:31 PM
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Quick description of the end types:
Rod-ends; eliminates just about any suspension bind present, and won't deflect at all. The best pick for all-out performance applications; they do transmit more road noise and vibration, and will clunk (sometimes horribly) when they need to be replaced, which isn't infrequently on a street car.
I'd say tubular adjustable with poly bushings.
Rod-ends; eliminates just about any suspension bind present, and won't deflect at all. The best pick for all-out performance applications; they do transmit more road noise and vibration, and will clunk (sometimes horribly) when they need to be replaced, which isn't infrequently on a street car.
I'd say tubular adjustable with poly bushings.
I would recommend the non-adjustable lower control arms with polyurethane bushings for your application. Since the vehicle is mostly street driven these are a good choice. Combine them with a set of relocation brackets and will notice a huge reduction in wheel hop.
I posted two links below to take a look at. I hope this helps!
www.umiperformance.com/2015
www.umiperformance.com/2012
I posted two links below to take a look at. I hope this helps!
www.umiperformance.com/2015
www.umiperformance.com/2012
07-06-2011, 06:33 PM
#7
True, rod ends will transmit more NVH, but the whole "Rod-ends are for masochists!" is a bit overplayed.
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07-07-2011, 02:49 PM
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Or you can save a bunch of money by switching to Geico and buying my never installed Hotchkis LCA's.. Fully boxed, poly/poly, brand new, and hell, Ill sell them for $100 to the first one who PM's me..
07-09-2011, 02:49 AM
#13
My suggestion is that you have the car already lowered and may want some adjustability. You can forgo the relocation brackets. My choice would be PN 2018 on our website which is the UMI adjustable lower control arms with poly bushings on both ends. I don't care for the rod ends, too noisy. clank clank clank.
I believe we have some 2018s left over from the sale we did last week along with other lower controls arms if you do not like our suggestion.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-sale-o_o.html
I believe we have some 2018s left over from the sale we did last week along with other lower controls arms if you do not like our suggestion.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-sale-o_o.html
07-09-2011, 04:19 PM
#16
And this oh if your gonna have x amount of power then you need a solid bushing is crap IMO until you reach solidly into the low 9's. Or you have a full out drag car. I wish my car didn't have the solid tq. arm bushing. I am glad I have poly/poly LCA's and they are boxed and relocated and they work very well.
