Help me with my Goal, 370-400 HP DD.
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Help me with my Goal, 370-400 HP DD.
Well about a month ago i picked up my first Fbody, the '98 z28 M6 in my sig. so far its been the best decision of my 19 year life.
Its pretty much bone stock except for the guy had a SLP Lid on it.
Its a M6
Im trying to push 370-400 rwHP without nitrous, and for a moderate price.
It will see Little to NO track time.
I live in michigan, but it will be stored in winter.
EDIT/UPDATE
So After heavy research (Yes theirs more questions, and thank you everyone who replied and replies)
I am debating on either spending a bunch of money on FULL bolt ons, or just doing Long tubes, Dual exhaust, a cam, and a tune. Will i need supporting mods for a cam? I understand that the cam should probably be the last mod, but im pretty sure ill be content with the new snappiness of my car.
Heres my REALISTIC budget build.
TSP 1-7/8" Headers+TSP true duals $1000ish.
TSP Cam-$600 (pushrods+Springs included)
Ported throttle body $100 at the most.
Havent researched cams yet, but texas-speed will help me out im sure.
My only other question is what supporting mods do i want for this setup? (what am i missing)
LS2 chain, maybe a better oil pump?
This is my first Fbody, I plan on getting all the maintenance up to date this summer, Saving some money, and dropping everything in at the same time next summer and getting a tune.
Does this seem like a good plan or is there a better route?
Its pretty much bone stock except for the guy had a SLP Lid on it.
Its a M6
Im trying to push 370-400 rwHP without nitrous, and for a moderate price.
It will see Little to NO track time.
I live in michigan, but it will be stored in winter.
EDIT/UPDATE
So After heavy research (Yes theirs more questions, and thank you everyone who replied and replies)
I am debating on either spending a bunch of money on FULL bolt ons, or just doing Long tubes, Dual exhaust, a cam, and a tune. Will i need supporting mods for a cam? I understand that the cam should probably be the last mod, but im pretty sure ill be content with the new snappiness of my car.
Heres my REALISTIC budget build.
TSP 1-7/8" Headers+TSP true duals $1000ish.
TSP Cam-$600 (pushrods+Springs included)
Ported throttle body $100 at the most.
Havent researched cams yet, but texas-speed will help me out im sure.
My only other question is what supporting mods do i want for this setup? (what am i missing)
LS2 chain, maybe a better oil pump?
This is my first Fbody, I plan on getting all the maintenance up to date this summer, Saving some money, and dropping everything in at the same time next summer and getting a tune.
Does this seem like a good plan or is there a better route?
Last edited by JohnS Z28; 07-27-2011 at 12:52 PM.
#2
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You're going to need a cam for your goal, so new pushrods and springs are also needed- $600
Headers, you could get Pacesetters coated or jet hot coated- $400 coated, $500 jet hot coated, I believe. Header bolts $100? I'd imagine you could get them cheaper.
You're going to want to run an exhaust, if you want a budget catback go with Magnaflow (very free-flowing) or if you want louder you could go with true duals dumped before the axle. TSP makes them for $400, they are popular. There are also LPP for $425 and they are stainless so no rusting/peeling. Not many people run them. Clearance has been good and bad for both true duals, just depends on how well you tuck them up.
LS6 intake is a great option if you're on a budget.
For a tuning shop, I don't know where in MI you're from but someone I know got their car tuned by a Livernois Motorsports shop and they did a shitty job and he had to go get a retune.
I would do more research about cams because if you want 370-400 REAR WHEEL hp, you'll need a decent cam. If you're shooting for flywheel hp- exhaust, intake, and tune will probably be all you'll need.
Headers, you could get Pacesetters coated or jet hot coated- $400 coated, $500 jet hot coated, I believe. Header bolts $100? I'd imagine you could get them cheaper.
You're going to want to run an exhaust, if you want a budget catback go with Magnaflow (very free-flowing) or if you want louder you could go with true duals dumped before the axle. TSP makes them for $400, they are popular. There are also LPP for $425 and they are stainless so no rusting/peeling. Not many people run them. Clearance has been good and bad for both true duals, just depends on how well you tuck them up.
LS6 intake is a great option if you're on a budget.
For a tuning shop, I don't know where in MI you're from but someone I know got their car tuned by a Livernois Motorsports shop and they did a shitty job and he had to go get a retune.
I would do more research about cams because if you want 370-400 REAR WHEEL hp, you'll need a decent cam. If you're shooting for flywheel hp- exhaust, intake, and tune will probably be all you'll need.
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thanks for the input
The guy also said he had a cat back on it, but ive never been under it to check, i dont know if i want true duals yet...alot of money.
lansing michigan by the way.
The guy also said he had a cat back on it, but ive never been under it to check, i dont know if i want true duals yet...alot of money.
lansing michigan by the way.
#4
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Just got my chrome bbks and they are about to be installed. They came with header bolts and gaskets that look ok but I am going to try and reuse my stock ones. **** painted and coated hookers and pacesetter there are tons of threads on here about how shitty they look after about a year of being on they rust to **** but that doesnt bother you then go ahead. Get a decent catback like hooker,slp, or tsp rumbler. Yours is a 98 so get a ls6 intake. Search the forums on here for it you can usually find one for a reasonable price. Do some cam research do you daily drive the car or is it a weekend cruiser? Your going to need springs, rods, oil pump, timing chain, might as well replace the lifters as well. Then get it tuned and you should be close to 400.
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It sounds like you are on a budget so here's what I would suggest.
Pacetters LT's and ORY from Texas Speed with the catback that you currently have if you can't afford stainless headers.
LS6 intake-$300, good for 10-15 hp.
Do not get the SLP induction, rather get an SSRA, FTRA or the chris1313 ram air. These have proven to perform well.
If you have an automatic, definitly get a stall. This would be the single most notciable mod of all.
After this is all installed, get a tune. You won't be making 370-400, but the car will be very quick and should be pretty fun.
Pacetters LT's and ORY from Texas Speed with the catback that you currently have if you can't afford stainless headers.
LS6 intake-$300, good for 10-15 hp.
Do not get the SLP induction, rather get an SSRA, FTRA or the chris1313 ram air. These have proven to perform well.
If you have an automatic, definitly get a stall. This would be the single most notciable mod of all.
After this is all installed, get a tune. You won't be making 370-400, but the car will be very quick and should be pretty fun.
#7
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I'd also suggest you do a ton of research before buying ANYTHING. I've seen many people who will buy something and not be happy with it after a couple months. Try to buy used unless you're dying to have new parts. Be smart and plan ahead, don't get carried away. Also if you plan on running a cam (which is probably necessary for your goal) I would gather up all of the parts you plan on putting on the car and drop the engine to put it all on at the same time. It'll be a breeze once you have the engine disassembled and out of the car. While you have the engine out you might as well clean up all the grime and gunk in the engine bay and on the engine.
RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH
RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH
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If I could go back and change my mods, I'd not get underdrive pulleys. I dont think they added much and the freaking alternator pulley squeaks for the first 10 minutes from a cold start and is SUPER annoying.
But if you want 370-400 to the street youre gonna have to get a cam for sure. 400 to the wheels is a lot of power. Also with that much power your gonna need suspension mods or might as well not have that much power...gonna be expensive to get there.
I have about 3-4k in mine and im at 342hp/360tq at the wheels...obv depends if your doing it yourself or not too. I had someone do the labor on my mods.
But if you want 370-400 to the street youre gonna have to get a cam for sure. 400 to the wheels is a lot of power. Also with that much power your gonna need suspension mods or might as well not have that much power...gonna be expensive to get there.
I have about 3-4k in mine and im at 342hp/360tq at the wheels...obv depends if your doing it yourself or not too. I had someone do the labor on my mods.
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If I could go back and change my mods, I'd not get underdrive pulleys. I dont think they added much and the freaking alternator pulley squeaks for the first 10 minutes from a cold start and is SUPER annoying.
But if you want 370-400 to the street youre gonna have to get a cam for sure. 400 to the wheels is a lot of power. Also with that much power your gonna need suspension mods or might as well not have that much power...gonna be expensive to get there.
I have about 3-4k in mine and im at 342hp/360tq at the wheels...obv depends if your doing it yourself or not too. I had someone do the labor on my mods.
But if you want 370-400 to the street youre gonna have to get a cam for sure. 400 to the wheels is a lot of power. Also with that much power your gonna need suspension mods or might as well not have that much power...gonna be expensive to get there.
I have about 3-4k in mine and im at 342hp/360tq at the wheels...obv depends if your doing it yourself or not too. I had someone do the labor on my mods.
#15
im in the same boat as you. my 2000 z28 has 135k miles on it though. i do want a cam but i dont know how much longer my engine is going to last (hopefully a while). headers and true duals are still going to be a must for me though.
#16
As for your 400HP goal, I don't remember you listing if you have an A4 or an M6. But if you have the automatic, be careful. 400 crank HP is about the limit these auto's can hold before stuff starts to break. Don't get me wrong, they are tough tranny's, they came out of the 6.0 trucks of the same day, but 400HP in a racing application on the auto is too much for it without some upgrades to the tranny itself.
#17
Don't worry about your engine. From what I've heard and read from fellow LS1 engine owners, they say that as long as you keep up on the maintenance on these things, you can almost beat them to death. They were meant to take some abuse. Many LS1 owners have seen well over 200K miles. I've had mine from 40,000 miles to 67,000 miles, not one mechanical problem with anything under the hood. Very reliable car as far as I am concerned.
As for your 400HP goal, I don't remember you listing if you have an A4 or an M6. But if you have the automatic, be careful. 400 crank HP is about the limit these auto's can hold before stuff starts to break. Don't get me wrong, they are tough tranny's, they came out of the 6.0 trucks of the same day, but 400HP in a racing application on the auto is too much for it without some upgrades to the tranny itself.
As for your 400HP goal, I don't remember you listing if you have an A4 or an M6. But if you have the automatic, be careful. 400 crank HP is about the limit these auto's can hold before stuff starts to break. Don't get me wrong, they are tough tranny's, they came out of the 6.0 trucks of the same day, but 400HP in a racing application on the auto is too much for it without some upgrades to the tranny itself.
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$300- used ls6 intake
$350- pacesetter coated lt headers and y-pipe
$75- P&P TB
$150-$350- tune
You don't need to buy header bolts, reuse your old ones. Being an A4 that will probably not get you to 350rwhp but it will be close. If your goal is to outrun people on the street being an A4 your best friend will be a stall.
$350- pacesetter coated lt headers and y-pipe
$75- P&P TB
$150-$350- tune
You don't need to buy header bolts, reuse your old ones. Being an A4 that will probably not get you to 350rwhp but it will be close. If your goal is to outrun people on the street being an A4 your best friend will be a stall.
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$300- used ls6 intake
$350- pacesetter coated lt headers and y-pipe
$75- P&P TB
$150-$350- tune
You don't need to buy header bolts, reuse your old ones. Being an A4 that will probably not get you to 350rwhp but it will be close. If your goal is to outrun people on the street being an A4 your best friend will be a stall.
$350- pacesetter coated lt headers and y-pipe
$75- P&P TB
$150-$350- tune
You don't need to buy header bolts, reuse your old ones. Being an A4 that will probably not get you to 350rwhp but it will be close. If your goal is to outrun people on the street being an A4 your best friend will be a stall.
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$300- used ls6 intake
$350- pacesetter coated lt headers and y-pipe
$75- P&P TB
$150-$350- tune
You don't need to buy header bolts, reuse your old ones. Being an A4 that will probably not get you to 350rwhp but it will be close. If your goal is to outrun people on the street being an A4 your best friend will be a stall.
$350- pacesetter coated lt headers and y-pipe
$75- P&P TB
$150-$350- tune
You don't need to buy header bolts, reuse your old ones. Being an A4 that will probably not get you to 350rwhp but it will be close. If your goal is to outrun people on the street being an A4 your best friend will be a stall.