lymlyt96

iTrader: (1)

Just took my first real test drive with the supercharger on and everything runnin right, but didnt even make it around the corner the fuse for the fuel pump popped, I replaced it, got on it pretty hard and it popped again now as soon as the pumps are turned on the fuse blows out. I have dual walbros running into a single hotwire kit. I know its recommended to run two kits or make sure the second pump has its own fused power line going to the front but I'm looking for confirmation that the single wire could be my problem and I need to run another wire to the second pump most likely with a hobbs switch.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

It's pretty obvious that the current fuse rating is too low to support the load. The wire size[s] may also come into the mix.
No need to run both pumps if the fuel requirement is not high enuf. A Hobbs would cure that.
A large main feed,[10 comes to mind], 2 relays, 1 pump & relay on the Hobbs,[trigger side], and 20A fuses would be my method of curing the problem.

MAKE SURE the ground side is good to go, also.
Never hurts to do a volt drop test on the system, either......

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

You should have a second separate feed to the additional pump, or at minimum a wire/relay setup rated for over 30amps.

Also, the factory connector through the top of the sender is also not rated for the current draw of 2 pumps. Modifications should be performance here as well.

lymlyt96

iTrader: (1)

I didnt install the 2nd pump but from looking at the wires coming out of the sender the grounds are tied together inside the tank and the power for the second pump is spliced into the 40a relay from the hotwire kit. I'm just gonna take the sender out and re-run the 2nd pumps wires out of the sender, ground neg to chassis in back and run the + up front to a 20 fuse and hobbs switch. If I do this would I still need to run it through a relay?

lymlyt96

iTrader: (1)

Update: I ran a 10ga fused line to the back into a 40a relay and now neither one of the pumps turn on. Here's how I hooked up the relay, the power wire from the front is going into '30 the 2nd pumps power wire is going into '87 I spliced into the stock harness ground and put that wire in '86 and spliced into purple wire on the stock harness and ran that into '85 that's all I did but apparently I'm missing something because even when I tried to jump the pump from the prime connector nothing happened. Am I missing something or should I try something totally different? Just to be thorough my assumptions were that the gray wire is the 1st pumps power the black is the ground and the purple is the remote/switched wire.

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

Purple wire is the level sensor.

lymlyt96

iTrader: (1)

So which wire am I supposed to tap into for "key on"?

lymlyt96

iTrader: (1)

So I changed the wiring on the relay I now have 85 as a chassis ground and 86 spliced into the gray power wire from 1st pump. The pumps turned on but when I started the car the fuse blew after about 5 secs but only the fuse from the first pump blew so is this an indication that the first pump is bad or should I go in the tank and check the wires inside and make sure nothing is pinched. I'm just tryin to save myself n extra trip to the parts store I have to go get a fuel line disconnect tool to get the sender out but if I need a pump I wanna get that while I'm there.

lymlyt96

iTrader: (1)

Pulled the pumps out and the ground wire was broken also my float is broken so it looks like im gonna be getting a new sender

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

If you are looking for a complete setup let me know. I can save you a lot of grief with a plug-n-play kit. Fully assembled, tested & includes all wiring.

lymlyt96

iTrader: (1)

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