stalls and tcs
#1
Staging Lane
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stalls and tcs
What is the difference between a stall and a tc, if any? I'm trying to gain a better understanding on the a4s and modding them and the stall is the main mod I hear about on here
#4
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A stall is slang for a converter. The converter has a "stall speed" that's rated in rpms. My Yank SS 3600 converter, has a stall speed of 3600 rpm, so for short they just say a 3600 stall.
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so with a higher stall speed there is more torque and hp transfered through the trans to the rear wheels? sorry if these are dumb questions, im just trying to learn as much as i can
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#8
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#14
As mentioned a "stall" is a term that was coined by guys when the internet became widely used. It is simply easier to type. So, new enthusiasts are easily confused. Think of it this way... a torque converter is a device that does exactly what the name implies. It converts engine torque into energy that is easily used by the transmission. Stall is the term that describes where the converter locks up hydraulically. Not to be confused with locking up mechanically with the converter clutch via the TCC solenoid and PCM commands.
An ideal stall speed is one that locks up when the engine is at or below it's torque curve threshold. Meaning, if your camshaft makes power at say 3,600 - 6,800 rpm, then you would want to consider a converter that stalls at 3,400 - 3,600 rpm. But, that might be a little rowdy for the street, meaning lot's of guys will become annoyed at the high stall over time and opt for a lower stalling converter. But, that's just my experience... others may vary.
For the power you are considering... I would recommend a converter that stalls in the neighborhood of 2,800 - 3,200 rpm.
And don't be so self conscious about asking seemingly mundane or elementary questions. We all had to start somewhere right? And when it boils down to it, it's your car and your money! Do your homework and ask all the questions you can before making your decision. I see so many guys who jump on the latest fad because they are too lazy to put the time in to planning a nice street machine, only to wind up with a lousy performing "also-ran" car. And then they are quick to blame the shop that did the work!
An ideal stall speed is one that locks up when the engine is at or below it's torque curve threshold. Meaning, if your camshaft makes power at say 3,600 - 6,800 rpm, then you would want to consider a converter that stalls at 3,400 - 3,600 rpm. But, that might be a little rowdy for the street, meaning lot's of guys will become annoyed at the high stall over time and opt for a lower stalling converter. But, that's just my experience... others may vary.
For the power you are considering... I would recommend a converter that stalls in the neighborhood of 2,800 - 3,200 rpm.
And don't be so self conscious about asking seemingly mundane or elementary questions. We all had to start somewhere right? And when it boils down to it, it's your car and your money! Do your homework and ask all the questions you can before making your decision. I see so many guys who jump on the latest fad because they are too lazy to put the time in to planning a nice street machine, only to wind up with a lousy performing "also-ran" car. And then they are quick to blame the shop that did the work!
#15
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As mentioned a "stall" is a term that was coined by guys when the internet became widely used. It is simply easier to type. So, new enthusiasts are easily confused. Think of it this way... a torque converter is a device that does exactly what the name implies. It converts engine torque into energy that is easily used by the transmission. Stall is the term that describes where the converter locks up hydraulically. Not to be confused with locking up mechanically with the converter clutch via the TCC solenoid and PCM commands.
An ideal stall speed is one that locks up when the engine is at or below it's torque curve threshold. Meaning, if your camshaft makes power at say 3,600 - 6,800 rpm, then you would want to consider a converter that stalls at 3,400 - 3,600 rpm. But, that might be a little rowdy for the street, meaning lot's of guys will become annoyed at the high stall over time and opt for a lower stalling converter. But, that's just my experience... others may vary.
For the power you are considering... I would recommend a converter that stalls in the neighborhood of 2,800 - 3,200 rpm.
And don't be so self conscious about asking seemingly mundane or elementary questions. We all had to start somewhere right? And when it boils down to it, it's your car and your money! Do your homework and ask all the questions you can before making your decision. I see so many guys who jump on the latest fad because they are too lazy to put the time in to planning a nice street machine, only to wind up with a lousy performing "also-ran" car. And then they are quick to blame the shop that did the work!
An ideal stall speed is one that locks up when the engine is at or below it's torque curve threshold. Meaning, if your camshaft makes power at say 3,600 - 6,800 rpm, then you would want to consider a converter that stalls at 3,400 - 3,600 rpm. But, that might be a little rowdy for the street, meaning lot's of guys will become annoyed at the high stall over time and opt for a lower stalling converter. But, that's just my experience... others may vary.
For the power you are considering... I would recommend a converter that stalls in the neighborhood of 2,800 - 3,200 rpm.
And don't be so self conscious about asking seemingly mundane or elementary questions. We all had to start somewhere right? And when it boils down to it, it's your car and your money! Do your homework and ask all the questions you can before making your decision. I see so many guys who jump on the latest fad because they are too lazy to put the time in to planning a nice street machine, only to wind up with a lousy performing "also-ran" car. And then they are quick to blame the shop that did the work!
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ok for 1, dont go cheap on a stall, it will eat your trans. secondly, if you already have a plan for engine work the best planning incorporates a full scale build. so the cam compliments the stall and gears. But headers are a good bet at any point. 1 7/8 and be done with them.