Need your help/opinions
08-03-2011, 11:29 PM
#1
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Need your help/opinions Ok, this weekend I got my motor put in and started working on it again tonight. As it sits now the motor and trans are in with the headers bolted on the motor, and nothing is attached to the kmember. Within 10 min, I found some problems that I need your opinion on what to do. Things about my build that are contributing to these problems, moroso oil pan with kickouts, ap1ap2 stainless headers (lpp gen 1's i guess), tubular kmember, abs delete with line lock. Now there obviosly isn't a huge quality issue here except maybe the headers but plenty of people have used them with sucess. So the issue is between the combination of parts and the order I decided to do things without knowing/ realizing the issues. So here they are:
Issue one:
With the kickouts in the pan, the oil level sensor is thousandths away from the headers. So I think it will melt it to leave it alone, but I can't pull the sensor out and put in a plug b/c there isn't enough room. Possible solution without pulling motor or headers is just cut the sensor back and not use the sensor.
Issue two:
Since i decided to wait and put the a-arms on the k-member in the car, I can't get the vertical bolt in. The header passes too close to the k-member to get the 4" bolt in the hole. Possible solution without pulling motor or headers is just put bolt in upside down.
Issue three:
This one is common with these headers, the first primary comes too close to the steering shaft. this is generally solved by moving the column over and maybe denting the primary. I hope moving the column will work b/c it is going to be tough denting the primary with it in the car.
Issue four:
This really is just asking your opinion on if you think the wiring/linelock is too close and if it should be moved. If i move it I would just move it up higher on the shock tower. See issue threes picture.
I listed the possible fixes without pulling the motor or removing the headers. My other option would be to pull the motor back out remove the headers and slide the bolt in and clearance the primary for the steering shaft and change out the oil level sensor for a plug. The reason I would pull the motor is that I can pull it out faster than I can unbolt and remove the headers in car.
Also I have a set of newish coated pacesetters, so i could also put those back in. My problem with those are that with the fresh motor I will probably end up fouling out the o2's, they aren't stepped, they aren't stainless, and they have v-bands so i would have to run open headers until i get the y-pipe made.
So im asking you guys what you would do in my situations. let me know what you would do, and maybe you can think of something I didn't.
Thanks
Issue one:
With the kickouts in the pan, the oil level sensor is thousandths away from the headers. So I think it will melt it to leave it alone, but I can't pull the sensor out and put in a plug b/c there isn't enough room. Possible solution without pulling motor or headers is just cut the sensor back and not use the sensor.
Issue two:
Since i decided to wait and put the a-arms on the k-member in the car, I can't get the vertical bolt in. The header passes too close to the k-member to get the 4" bolt in the hole. Possible solution without pulling motor or headers is just put bolt in upside down.
Issue three:
This one is common with these headers, the first primary comes too close to the steering shaft. this is generally solved by moving the column over and maybe denting the primary. I hope moving the column will work b/c it is going to be tough denting the primary with it in the car.
Issue four:
This really is just asking your opinion on if you think the wiring/linelock is too close and if it should be moved. If i move it I would just move it up higher on the shock tower. See issue threes picture.
I listed the possible fixes without pulling the motor or removing the headers. My other option would be to pull the motor back out remove the headers and slide the bolt in and clearance the primary for the steering shaft and change out the oil level sensor for a plug. The reason I would pull the motor is that I can pull it out faster than I can unbolt and remove the headers in car.
Also I have a set of newish coated pacesetters, so i could also put those back in. My problem with those are that with the fresh motor I will probably end up fouling out the o2's, they aren't stepped, they aren't stainless, and they have v-bands so i would have to run open headers until i get the y-pipe made.
So im asking you guys what you would do in my situations. let me know what you would do, and maybe you can think of something I didn't.
Thanks
08-04-2011, 06:09 AM
#2
Issue 1: Had the same problem. Deleting the low oil sensor is one of the standard issues with the eBay SS headers and at one point was well-documented in the giant LPP thread that got canned. I left the sensor in the pan and disconnected.
Issue 2: Put the bolt in upside down. It won't hurt anything.
Issue 3: Also well-documented in that thread, moving the steering column is the ideal solution. Along with minor grinding of the linkage and dinging of the header primary that's about your best bet. I've also seen where some people have modified the motor mounts to lift the engine up half an inch to help with the clearance (if you're good with a welder of course).
As for the line lock, I would DEFINITELY not have it that close to the header primary. Not only for the sake of the solenoid itself, but new, contaminant-free brake DOT 3 fluid boils at ~400 degrees F (the presence of moisture in the fluid drastically reduces the boiling point to as low as ~285 degrees F). Header surface temps easily exceed that, and with it that close in proximity you're asking for trouble. If the fluid boils you'll get severe, probably dangerous, brake fade and the hydraulic properties of the fluid become null and void, since the boiled off brake fluid (now vapor) is compressible. Considering the highest EGTs you'll see are at WOT (like after a run at the strip), you'll want to make sure your brakes work at 100+mph.
Short version - either move it, insulate it, or both!
The Pacesetters are known to fit very well so that would alleviate some of your issues, but like you mention you'd have to make a few compromises. You likely wouldn't see a performance difference between the two so that shouldn't really be a deciding factor. The O2s you can deal with by running without them for a few heat cycles at idle to help burn off some of the interior contaminants prior to installing them - no biggie there. Personally I'd make the stainless headers work.
Hope this helps.
Issue 2: Put the bolt in upside down. It won't hurt anything.
Issue 3: Also well-documented in that thread, moving the steering column is the ideal solution. Along with minor grinding of the linkage and dinging of the header primary that's about your best bet. I've also seen where some people have modified the motor mounts to lift the engine up half an inch to help with the clearance (if you're good with a welder of course).
As for the line lock, I would DEFINITELY not have it that close to the header primary. Not only for the sake of the solenoid itself, but new, contaminant-free brake DOT 3 fluid boils at ~400 degrees F (the presence of moisture in the fluid drastically reduces the boiling point to as low as ~285 degrees F). Header surface temps easily exceed that, and with it that close in proximity you're asking for trouble. If the fluid boils you'll get severe, probably dangerous, brake fade and the hydraulic properties of the fluid become null and void, since the boiled off brake fluid (now vapor) is compressible. Considering the highest EGTs you'll see are at WOT (like after a run at the strip), you'll want to make sure your brakes work at 100+mph.
Short version - either move it, insulate it, or both!
The Pacesetters are known to fit very well so that would alleviate some of your issues, but like you mention you'd have to make a few compromises. You likely wouldn't see a performance difference between the two so that shouldn't really be a deciding factor. The O2s you can deal with by running without them for a few heat cycles at idle to help burn off some of the interior contaminants prior to installing them - no biggie there. Personally I'd make the stainless headers work.
Hope this helps.