Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Is it me or is the rubber seal supposed to just come right out in one piece? Must be the origional cause it's coming out piece by piece. Don't know what to do at this point.

And from the looks of things the new seal on the right doesn't even look the same. Note the top left. Pulled that spring out from the old seal. Does it go back in the new or no? Getting frustrated.........

shbox

Your old seal is apparently dry rotted. Just scrape/pry it all out. You don't reuse anything from the old seal. The p/n of your seal is the 97 version. The 93-96 seal is 10088158. The RMS housing is a different p/n for 97, as well. Why/how they are different, IDK.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Appreciate the heads up on the part #! What's another trip to the local parts store. At the rate I'm going it's sure as hell not going to be the last.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Pepboys actually had the right seal kit. It's Felpro #40520 but at this point I'll take it. My question is, I don't recognize the top left gasket.

96TransAmboosted

iTrader: (8)

I never use that gasket, i use the RMS and the half paper gasket and i like to use a little RTV on the paper to hold it into place

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

I just read through a few searches that said the teflon seal from Felpro leaks. Greeeeaaaat.

Oh did I mention that I broke the lower left bolt too. Lucky it didn't break in the block. Took me 20 minutes to get it out. 35 ft-lbs my ***. Either the manual is wrong or the bolt was so damn fatigued after almost 20 years. Welp, off to Ace again in the morning.

I'm just ******* winning like Charlie Sheen with this build.

food nd cars

I never felt safe torquing little bolts like that past ~25 ft lbs. I usually just go til its tight but not too tight.

shbox

Not sure where you got the torque spec, but it is 11 lb. ft. for the little bolt and nuts. There's no way a little bolt like that would take 35.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I have a teflon seal in mine and it doesn't leak. I think those seals are to be installed dry.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

BINGO!!



My LT1 is a '96, I've owned it since October of '95. I store the car for the winter, but start it up 2-3 times over the winter. Nonetheless, I've developed a rear main leak twice, over the years, possibly due to the lack of daily usage keeping the seal oiled. I have replaced the rear main seal both times. I now have the teflon seal, with no issues.

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

^ This. The teflon seal is to be INSTALLED DRY. In addition, make sure everything is CLEAN and free of burrs. I'm in the middle of changing mine now.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

So no dab of oil around the inside ring?

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

Absolutely not.

Teflon is a slick material. It provides its own lubricity.

The only thing adding a dab of oil around the ring will do is create a leak path.

Only install the RUBBER seals wet.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

ABSOLUTELY!!


Furthermore, leave the "protective plastic sleeve" in place until AFTER you have the seal in place, on the crank. Then CAREFULLY, slide the sleeve out.....

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

^ This did not work worth a SH*T. The sleeve made the install WAY too tight, and the sleeve broke. Then, I tried again with the broken sleeve (this would allow the sleeve to stretch more to get over the crank). Got it on, but the sleeve was too far in (lost inside). Had to pull it again and remove the sleeve, and just carefully, mindfully installed the housing w/seal over the crank. It's not hard to do without the plastic sleeve or a tool, you just have to be careful.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

The sleeve really isn't made to go over the crank journal. Just, more or less butt up against it for a smooth transition between sleeve to crank. I used the sleeve and it went on easily.

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

Might be nice if that point would have been made on the documentation from Fel-Pro.

And thanks for a legit answer, I was expecting something smarty-assy...oh wait, nevermind, you're not gregrob.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

To the best of my recollection, when I installed my teflon seal, I slipped the seal in place, with the plastic sleeve going over the crank hub....

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

That could possibly work too. I'd just rather do it right without the sleeve. For some reason it just seemed easier that way. Just have to be careful.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

One thing you guys need to be aware of. Comparatively speaking, the rubber seal will tolerate a little more "abuse" during the installation, without leaking afterward. The teflon seal, however, is far more "fragile".

Therefore, the plastic sleeve is in place to allow you, the installer, to slide the seal successfully over any roughness that might be present on the exposed portion of the crank, outside of the seal itself, without damaging the seal.


This is basically a similar situation to the water pump drive shaft seal, where you need to get the WP seal successfully over the splines, without damaging it.....