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How are activating your transbrake/nitrous?

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Old 03-07-2004, 12:23 AM
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Default How are activating your transbrake/nitrous?

( I havent got my 400 in yet so bare with me )

My problem is this that since my N20 is on a FT switch w/ the transbrake do you floor the Throttle and hold the TrnsBrk button till you are ready to launch? Or do u do it part throttle because the transbrake only goes up so high?

do you have your button for the Tbrake on the shifter? or steering wheel ( ie aftermarket style )


Thanks

Jason
Old 03-07-2004, 07:03 AM
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Unless you are using a window switch, or a relay to keep the FT switch from turning on the N2O, you will have to only go to part throttle. I am right in the middle of wiring this up. I also installed a 3 step to keep the rpm from hitting the stall. I have the trans brake wired so that the motor will only go to 3500 while it's on. The window switch is set to activate at 4200 and shut off at 7000. It's not good to hold the motor at the stall for too long due to the fact that the fluid temperature will raise at a rate of 50 to 75 degrees per second. I tried the steering wheel mounted switch, but changed to a 75 amp momentary toggle mounted behind the shifter.
Old 03-07-2004, 09:22 AM
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This is really simple guys. Throw a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) Bosch Relay into the picture. There is a normally open and a normally closed contact on it. All you do is wire the normally open side to the trans brake. The normally closed contact is what feeds the 12v to your relays for your nitrous setup. You can get really crafty by adding a TPS, etc. But, the relay for the trans brake is where all the power comes from. That keeps you from spraying while on the brake.

The other thing you can do is work with a window switch set 100 RPM or so above your stall speed on the brake. If your brake locks up at 4000, set it to 4100.
Old 03-07-2004, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DERTY
This is really simple guys. Throw a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) Bosch Relay into the picture. There is a normally open and a normally closed contact on it. All you do is wire the normally open side to the trans brake. The normally closed contact is what feeds the 12v to your relays for your nitrous setup. You can get really crafty by adding a TPS, etc. But, the relay for the trans brake is where all the power comes from. That keeps you from spraying while on the brake.

The other thing you can do is work with a window switch set 100 RPM or so above your stall speed on the brake. If your brake locks up at 4000, set it to 4100.
Right on! Mr. Boak, this is the way you should go. It allows you to stall up and keep your nitrous disarmed. That'll avoid a potentially fatal combination (for your car, that is). While the brake is on, the nitrous cannot arm, but don't forget the manual arming switch between the SPDT solenoid and the nitrous solenoids.

The TPS idea is good, too, but I would be leary of the RPM switch. If anything lets loose while your on the brake, like 'vertor bolts, flywheel, flywheel bolts, or the trans, the nitrous will terminate your engine. With the solenoid, as long as the brake is on, the nitrous is positively disabled.

What's next, Jason? Have you thought about a turbo... Muuuuahahahahaha...

SC-



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