LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Looks like it saves about 200 bucks. JY 5.3 build at around 700rw. Im assuming it would be just fine but looking for some results otherwise I'll just be a guinea pig.

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

Their is a really in depth thread about these in the GenIII section, IIRC. Ill see if i can dig it up, the general response will be dont waste your money, and people will argue about engineering and metalurgy (spelling?) etc.

ANd how companies like ARP etc, have full time engineers and they test their stuff, etc. etc. etc.

Also, the replies ive read, alot of people broke the studs just tightening down the nuts on top. DO yourself a favor, dont buy them.

in the end, after you pop you JY motor, guess what, you get to reuse them on the rebuild. (arp etc.).

Ill see if i can dig up that thread.

EDIT: here you go..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...tuds-ebay.html

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

buy once, buy right!

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I haven't tried using anything but ARP, but I can tell you that when it comes to wheel studs, ARP are clearly superior. Bob

willizm

iTrader: (10)

Save some money to have a potential bigger headache later? Not worth it to me. Just pony up the money for some quality headstuds like ARP. I found a legit vendor on ebay that was a couple bucks cheaper than texas speed.

turbocamaro125

iTrader: (3)

I used them on them ls1 with 102k miles on it with a s480 turbo on 10psi prolly 650rwhp
brute speed blower cam fast 102/102 never had a problem with them...would I use them again yes but what im building now I wont. I have a buddy who is using them(4.8 ls9 cam s472 turbo) from this guy http://myworld.ebay.com/abad71camaro...9.l2754...they arent what is in the picture... I dont remember the name on the box but they are alot better quality then the ones pictured. Procompelectronics.com is the name but the dont list for ls motors but the studs were cold rolled instead on tapped....

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

I used the cheap studs on the ls2 that I maxed out my f1 procharger 22psi of boost and 20deg of timing, stock ls2 gaskets and never lifted or hurt a head.
I just built another engine for a buddy using the same studs spraying a 250 on a lq9 11:1 engine.
I believe in them
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-Cylinder...item2eb997a70d

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

i use the same studs aswell, ive used over 20 sets an none with problems

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

uh oh the evil ebay stuff! i really wanted to try them but did hear a couple of horror stories with them breaking and back out at the last second... I decided head studs wasnt the place i wanted to cheap out on right now on a daily driver... if this was a project car i probably would have got them! i got some arp studs for like 240 bucks off of jegs using their online price match. also just got the 6 point nuts because 12 point is pointless extra money.

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

Where most people break them is they try to torque the stud itself down, Once they bottom out there is no place to go but break, We tighten our studs down then give a lil bump to them, then we install the nuts

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Doesn't ARP tell you to run the stud down till it bottoms out, then back it out an 1/8 turn? That's what I did and didn't have any issues.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

We usually do the studs to like 8 lbs with loctite.

turbocamaro125

iTrader: (3)

same here^^^^

slowlsx

iTrader: (28)

So it seems the eBay studs are breakin during install, sounds like mechanical error to me!

Anybody ever had them actually mess up with boost?

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

I've seen goodluck, and badluck with the ebay head studs...

- dudeman on here ran 9.0s with ebay head studs.

- Was helping a friend put heads on and two of them broke while torquing them down on the first pass.

I would not risk it. Go with ARP.

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

what procedure did you do, IE how was the stud installed, etc?

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

Cleaned the block, ran the studs down till they bottomed out, put the head on and went to torque them and two broke on the first pass. (I believe it was the first pass, I can't remember. May have been the second pass)

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Finger tight is what they recommend - whatever you do, don't torque them down. The studs are designed to be pulled on in tension only - if you torque them in place, you'll be adding a torsional load that's not supposed to be there, and it could cause issues.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Maybe that was it. Even if I backed them off an 1/8 of a turn, as soon as you start to run a nut onto the stud, it's going to turn the stud that last 1/8 of a turn and seat the stud.