JustlikethaT

I just picked up a 4.125 bore block from Erl. Im planning on running a single 88mm Precision turbo and probably around 16-18lbs of boost. Im kinda stuck on if i should go with a 4in stroke and go with a stroker or get a forged stock stroke crank and make it like a 388 or what ever.

The car is gonna be a street car mostly but still visit the track everynow and then to see where its at.

I figure the 388 would last longer and work well with the turbo but thats just my opinion. What you guys think?

COPO9560

Either option will make a ton of power with good heads. I would lean toward 4 inch stroke as there are more over the shelf parts available.

6 bolt block??

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

If you are going with turbo, hope you got the 6 bolts option, if you didn't, don't stroke it, it will surely lift up the heads, the alum blck will not be nearly as susceptible to lift the heads with the standard stroke, and you'll still make a ton of power.

JustlikethaT

Unfortunately its not a 6 bolt block, but its gonna have 1/2in head studs so hopefully that might help some.

JustlikethaT

any more info??

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Won't let you down, the heads will, GM and any after market head with the standard approx 3/8 deck thickness, "will" "lift," here's the problem, the heads don't lift the studs, the heads lift between the studs, letting the gasket free, to fail, that's the reason the 5th and the 6th bolts. The ls cldr heads are taper in the outside, making them weaker, and if that wasn't enough, to make maters worth, if you look at the heads upside down you will notice the combustion chambers, are off center tours the outside, {the weaker area} then you come and boost to great power, problem is, overheating will start to halt, all the fun, the heads will come out, to find out between studs, black exhaust trace, on the gaskets, you will know what lifted when you carefully observe, whether the black trace is between the heads and the gaskets, or is the block that lifted, if the trace is, between the gasket and the block. I seen both, lifted at the same time, and i seen just the block, and else, just the head. If you are bored, you can skip, if not, learn some more, after all, you asked. So here it goes, i install O rings on the block and on the heads and still they separated enough to get combustion gasses past the O rings on both the heads and the block side of the gaskets meaning both the block and the heads where stretching upwards, between the studs. Now, if you ask, and you are lucky, you will get this; the guys running above 24 psi in competition, run both, 6 bolts and O ring on both, heads and block, or run steel block and O ring heads only. I wished some one took the time to explain all this to me, unfortunately, i learned the hard way, and all, on my own. I had an engine out of the car no less than 4 times and changed, countless, head gaskets: so what did i learn? Do it rite, do it once, ohhh, but it will cost more.... Noooh is the cheapest, way to go. TAKE YOUR TIME, and do it RITE, the 1st time. Now the disclaimer, there's always the critics wish will say, is just a bunch of words, but those i always expect, cause nothing other than whats inside their heads, fits there, and certainly not wisdom.
So off course they will reject it, specially when they don't even have a drivers license... But the wise will rejoice.....and add wisdom, while been thankful. PS NO receiver groove if O ring one side only, receiver groove will remove the pressure from behind the O ring causing it to fail, this too happened to me, so now you remove the heads and find out the bad news, and you say, OK i remove the O ring, problem now is, you are now missing part of the head gasket support in the critical area around the bores, the fix? deck the block, and add a thicker head gasket wile the machine chop bills run up, and your motor won't stay in the car, and you just work, and pay, and no play.

You just got a praise God, for getting 5 years of learning in the class room, of the school of hard knocks, for free.

The reason, is this forum, and it's generosity, allowing me to buy and sell, free of charge to me, so i can make progress with my pride and joy, is my way to say, to ls1 tech, THANK-YOU, i appreciate you....

MERRY CHRISTMAS, to all the staff and members, and a HAPPY NEW YEAR.....

David...

COPO9560

16 to 18 lbs of boost will make a stout street motor - how much power are you looking to build?

Might want to check with ERL to see if you can swap this block for credit on a 6 bolt superdeck model. Probably the only way to hold the heads down on an engine this big with this much boost. Either that or lower your targets and still have a very fast car with 12 to 15 lbs of boost.

Ever consider NA and a little N2O? 4 bolt block would be perfect for this.

JustlikethaT

wow man i really appreciate the help. I was hoping and dreaming of making 1000whp on high boost and methanol. It probably will be driven and raced on around 15lbs-16lbs. So i think im gonna take my losses and either run like you said 15-16lbs at the most and be happy. Or spend the money to go 6bolt do it right. Im gonna call ERL tomorrow and see what they say about the exchange.

Its just so hard to get ERL on the phone its ridiculous

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

After i weight all my options, i know is heavy, but the GM LSX standard deck is hard to beat, and with the money you save, you can take a lot off weight off your car, and it will more than lift it's weight up in the air, and best of all, you'll end up with the best 440Ci out there, not to mention a real LS7/LSX engine that will put real value in your car. Come to think of it, at this point you'll realize, you don't even need a power adder, to have a pump fuel 10 secs st monsta, cause, there's real value in keeping things simple, specially on a dd. But, if boost is inn, at 440 Ci and 6 bolts combo, 6psi and you have a 1000 whp, dd. Good luck,

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Why not a 4.185 inch bore/4" stroke and bingo 440Ci, just like that.....