1sicss

iTrader: (3)

So I was gonna buy some 243's from a guy on here but he was further away than I originally thought. As I was driving to get them. I was also wondering if 317's is a good idea to put on my motor with the mods in my sig. just looking for a better flowing head than my stock 98 ls1 heads. If I can bolt these up to my engine is there anything I have to do to the 317's as in milling them for proper CR and gaskets and also can I take the PAC1218's off my ls1 heads and run these on the 317's.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Honestly I wouldn't even go through the trouble and expense to put stock 243s on, much less the 317s which are going to drop compression unless you mill them a good bit.

Head swaps have a lot of cost other than just the heads themselves (machine work, bolts, gaskets, fluids, etc).

1sicss

iTrader: (3)

thunderstruck definately understand your point. Not interested in 317's no more after I talked to Texas Speed thanks john but still definately interested in some good priced 243's though.

JPH

iTrader: (2)

Well a stock #243 head with a new "really good" valve job and a .015 mill will do wonders over the #317 head any day. SCR is his friend here and the #243s would still be a good choice matched up with his boltons and cam for now.

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

Just but some 243s or 799s off an LS2 or truck motor and have them rebuilt

1sicss

iTrader: (3)

So I'm getting some 799's tonight probably get them resurfaced and valve job and back cut. Another question or questions, how much should be milled and where what do I have to do to get the coils working for these heads being that they are going on my 1998 ls1 camaro or do I have buy new valve covers? Or is there a conversion kit? Ideas anyone?

redtan

iTrader: (5)

So for you it's either spending $3,000 on aftermarket heads or bust? What about the person that just wants a little bit more power and bump in compression and doesn't have thousands to spend on heads? What about the fact that by going with such radical heads then the cam will probably have to be swapped further adding to the cost of aftermarket heads.

Besides labor, headswaps are not that much more expensive than the heads themselves. Fluids are $70, headgaskets $50 and bolts another $80. If you need machine work besides some basic cleaning then the heads have a problem. Like if you need the deck resurfaced because it's not flat well then that's a bad head not something regularly associated with head swaps.

I don't think the fact that you have to spend another $200 should deter someone from doing a good headswap to some 243s and instead should go ahead and drop another $3000 on some aftermarket heads.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

You complete misread what I wrote. "stock" is the key word in that sentence

I am completely bang/buck budget oriented. If you refer to my sig I am running home ported 799 heads on my car. I have $250 in the heads and called up a favor from a friend for the carbide cuts and I did the sanding rolls. Had them shaved .010" for $45. I got used ARP bolts for $80 and found someone selling Felpro head gaskets (pair) for $28 shipped. I even waited until the car was due for an oil change

Do not forget the car is going to need a tune for the heads. Another cost. And contrary to the opinion you posted about machine costs, it doesn't mean they have "issues" but I would never in a million years install a used aluminum head on anything of mine without having them surfaced. Period. I haven't found a place yet that will do a mill or surface job for less than $20/head and that's my "friend" price.


I would either leave the car alone, port the 243 heads, or have the 243 heads ported. I would not take stock 243 or 799 heads and put them on my car unless it was already apart for something else.

It is too much of a chore and all the other costs besides the heads add up to make it not worth the ~15-20 rwhp gains because it says to me the car is not a ***** out track car (or you would be doing professionally ported heads)and the benefits of the stock heads won't be noticeable on the street after a week of driving.