Generation IV External Engine - Kooks 2in. headers hitting steering shaft

First of all I searched and came up with ZIP. I was hoping somebody could point me in the right direction. I recently installed a pa-racing k-frame and a-arms and Kooks 2 in. headers they are hitting my steering shaft right at the top of the fat part, can I grind the top part of that down safely or does anyone have any ideas, or maybe does one of the vendors sell a custom shaft.
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab57/1phatasp/photobucket-28586-1322929224136.jpg

why dont you just put a ding in the headers? thats what most people do dosnt really restrict flow.

and why 2 inch headers what kind of a build do you have

why dont you just put a ding in the headers? thats what most people do dosnt really restrict flow.

and why 2 inch headers what kind of a build do you have

Fuck that.

I'm sure them 2" headers aren't cheap so there isn't any need to be banging them in. If they can't make them to fit send them back or buy a different brand. There are many different brands so isn't a need to be putting up with BS

well my thing is why do you even need 2 inch headers, your probably way overkill and you are going to lose alot of mid range power and not at the gain of any up top

i just went out and looked at my kooks 1 7/8 on my car to see how close they were so i knew where they hit exactly on your situation and they are not even close to my shaft? Steering shaft that is.A 1/8 inch is not that much bigger i can put my finger at least between the steering shaft and the header. i blame the crossmember.

why dont you just put a ding in the headers? thats what most people do dosnt really restrict flow.

and why 2 inch headers what kind of a build do you have

$1000 ceramic coated header, that ain,t happening.


What I realy want to know if someone makes a shaft without the fat part in it? (Does,nt that sound technical)?

I have the pa racing k member as well, tsp 1.75 headers had a clearance issues as well. Mine was rubbing on the number 1 primary tube. Did you make the shaft your self? My manual rack came with 2 u joints and a shaft that I had to cut.

After no one really haing the same problem, I bough a solid round stock that fit snugly in the u joint.cut to the correct length. After I had that done I put the solid stock on a lave and milled the o.d. down till it cleared. Sounds like a lot of work but it clears and it make me fell a lot safer than what the manual rack came with.

You can also try on the driver where rack bolts to the k member rear e long gate the holes so you can slide the entire rack to the left of the car to give you more room

I have the pa racing k member as well, tsp 1.75 headers had a clearance issues as well. Mine was rubbing on the number 1 primary tube. Did you make the shaft your self? My manual rack came with 2 u joints and a shaft that I had to cut.

stock shaft

After no one really haing the same problem, I bough a solid round stock that fit snugly in the u joint.cut to the correct length. After I had that done I put the solid stock on a lave and milled the o.d. down till it cleared. Sounds like a lot of work but it clears and it make me fell a lot safer than what the manual rack came with.

You can also try on the driver where rack bolts to the k member rear e long gate the holes so you can slide the entire rack to the left of the car to give you more room

I,ll check that out. I was thinking about trying the BMR manual steering rack,they say it,s moved over to give more clearance. Do you street drive yours? how is it with the manual steering?

i just went out and looked at my kooks 1 7/8 on my car to see how close they were so i knew where they hit exactly on your situation and they are not even close to my shaft? Steering shaft that is.A 1/8 inch is not that much bigger i can put my finger at least between the steering shaft and the header. i blame the crossmember.

^^^ I agree. I have the 1 7/8 stepped to 2" Kooks and mine aren't even close either. Something isn't right.....

why dont you just put a ding in the headers? thats what most people do dosnt really restrict flow.

and why 2 inch headers what kind of a build do you have

I would understand not wanting to put a dent in the header. I'm sure they cost a pretty penny.
He has a blower. I'm sure he'll put the bigger primaries to good use.

Yes I street drive the car, on 275 nittos up front. I am still working on issuses with it.

Driving and normal everyday stuff is fine, but u try turn the wheel at a dead stop on concrete you have to bow up on the wheel to turn it.

Would I got back to power steering if I could, more than likely I would. It has been a eng. Your own manual rack with "bolt in" parts.

I would understand not wanting to put a dent in the header. I'm sure they cost a pretty penny.
He has a blower. I'm sure he'll put the bigger primaries to good use.

That what I was thinking. I try and upgrade as much as I can, when I can, and did,nt see any reason to do that part again. It,s not going t happen this year but there,s a blown stroker in the future.

Yes I street drive the car, on 275 nittos up front. I am still working on issuses with it.

Driving and normal everyday stuff is fine, but u try turn the wheel at a dead stop on concrete you have to bow up on the wheel to turn it.

Would I got back to power steering if I could, more than likely I would. It has been a eng. Your own manual rack with "bolt in" parts.

If I can,t come up with a solution with the shaft I think I,m going to try it, I have m/t frontrunners on the front and only drive it to the track and to car shows, so it should,nt be to bad.

Moved thread to gen 3,because I was,nt paying attention.:eek2:

I,ll check that out. I was thinking about trying the BMR manual steering rack,they say it,s moved over to give more clearance. Do you street drive yours? how is it with the manual steering?

I believe BMR moves the mounts on the K-member over an inch and run a different length rack to make up the difference. I used their K-member/manual rack combo and my steering shaft still hit my number 1 primary on my TSP 1 7/8 headers. I was pretty disappointed because that's the only reason I went with their stuff. It's probably TSP's fault for swinging their number 1 out so far. In the end, someone made me a custom shaft that cleared perfectly. They extended the factory column at the bottom by an inch or two which moved the shaft over more to the drivers side. Then they used flaming river u-joints along with a skinnier shaft to clear the headers. It works perfectly an I drive on the street.

I believe BMR moves the mounts on the K-member over an inch and run a different length rack to make up the difference. I used their K-member/manual rack combo and my steering shaft still hit my number 1 primary on my TSP 1 7/8 headers. I was pretty disappointed because that's the only reason I went with their stuff. It's probably TSP's fault for swinging their number 1 out so far. In the end, someone made me a custom shaft that cleared perfectly. They extended the factory column at the bottom by an inch or two which moved the shaft over more to the drivers side. Then they used flaming river u-joints along with a skinnier shaft to clear the headers. It works perfectly an I drive on the street.

^ This. Mod your shaft. Borgeson makes most of the U joints out there.

http://www.borgeson.com/

I believe BMR moves the mounts on the K-member over an inch and run a different length rack to make up the difference. I used their K-member/manual rack combo and my steering shaft still hit my number 1 primary on my TSP 1 7/8 headers. I was pretty disappointed because that's the only reason I went with their stuff. It's probably TSP's fault for swinging their number 1 out so far. In the end, someone made me a custom shaft that cleared perfectly. They extended the factory column at the bottom by an inch or two which moved the shaft over more to the drivers side. Then they used flaming river u-joints along with a skinnier shaft to clear the headers. It works perfectly an I drive on the street.
Thanks, I was wondering if the bmr stuff would work, mines= is about a hair from the tube, so it might work.

^ This. Mod your shaft. Borgeson makes most of the U joints out there.


Or i,ll check in to do something like this. I think if I could get a skinnier shaft made I would be ok.
http://www.borgeson.com/

Thanks, I was wondering if the bmr stuff would work, mines= is about a hair from the tube, so it might work.

If it's that close just try loosening two bolts inside the car on the column and shift the column/wheel over slightly to the passenger side. The column is slotted so I would try that if you haven't already. I put my headers in originally and I had to move my column over slightly in order to get the stock shaft to clear. I was in the same boat and purchased all the BMR stuff only to find out their steering shaft hit worse. Like I said before it's TSP's fault for swinging the header out so far but I was very disappointed that I went out of the way to buy their stuff because it "fit".

you mean these bolts?
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab57/1phatasp/steering.jpg

you mean these bolts?
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab57/1phatasp/steering.jpg

No, the ones further up towards the steering wheel. They are actually two nuts that hold the column in place at the top. Might need a long extension to reach them if you plan on keeping the kick panel in place.

Took the kick panel out and found them. I,ve got about a 1/4 in. of clearance now, I think that should do it. Thank you and everybody that has chimed in.