Pontiac Firebird 1967-2002 - First LS1! Help Please!

Yesterday I found what i hope was a good deal on a 98 Trans AM A4 Dark Blue for $3000. Super clean car only problems are the back speakers are busted and the reverse is out. Its in the shop getting the tranny rebuilt, its gonna run me about 1500-1800. It has an slp lid and that is the only mods done. Did I get a good deal? & what would be the first mods youd do to it with about a 1500 budget? Thanks in advance!

What are the miles on your bird? I picked my 98 a4 with 172k for 2200 recently. Needs some interior work and passenger side quarter needs some rust cleaned up.

What are the miles on your bird? I picked my 98 a4 with 172k for 2200 recently. Needs some interior work and passenger side quarter needs some rust cleaned up.

125,585 I believe. The one I got id say 9/10 inside and 9/10 paint and body.

Then I think you got a good or better deal. I'm going to take mine in for body work and full paint soon.

125,585 I believe. The one I got id say 9/10 inside and 9/10 paint and body.

True condition is important for us to assess. 9 out of 10 is not likely and I know nothing about your car. It would be a truly incredible owner that could maintain a car in that condition with 125,000 miles. My 29,000 miles show car is a 9 of 10. 10 of 10 is basically showroom new IMO. Provide us with details and we might say 'good' deal' or 'not so good'. Number of owners? Clean title? Any accident history? What else does the car need? (Tires, etc..) Headlights work OK? Power windows? A/C?? You now have about $5,000 into a 14 year old car with 125,000 miles. Maybe it is a good deal if everything checks out but we can't fairly determine value with what you have provided so far. The main thing is for you to be happy with the purchase, not what we think.

As I have been told on here about starting mods, suspension lca, new poly bushings, gears, possibly new tubular k-member, pan hard bar, torque arm.

I wouldnt have a tubular kmember on a list of first mods. What are your goals with the car. If everything is stock other than the lid, I'd go Shocks/ springs (koni / strano), PHB, LCA's and relo brackets.

Only reason I put that if because i'm doing one for future mods on my car, looking to put it on a diet for straight line and possibly road track duties.

True condition is important for us to assess. 9 out of 10 is not likely and I know nothing about your car. It would be a truly incredible owner that could maintain a car in that condition with 125,000 miles. My 29,000 miles show car is a 9 of 10. 10 of 10 is basically showroom new IMO. Provide us with details and we might say 'good' deal' or 'not so good'. Number of owners? Clean title? Any accident history? What else does the car need? (Tires, etc..) Headlights work OK? Power windows? A/C?? You now have about $5,000 into a 14 year old car with 125,000 miles. Maybe it is a good deal if everything checks out but we can't fairly determine value with what you have provided so far. The main thing is for you to be happy with the purchase, not what we think.

2 owners, clean title, clean carfax, everything works great, A/C cold, tires are at about 75% tread but i am putting new c6 wheels and nitto tires on it anyway. The inside and outside both look great, no scratches or anything. I am putting texas speed long tube headers and true duals first as far as performance wise.

Personally sounds like a good deal. I picked up my 99 TA WS6 with 104k for 8k 11 months ago. I'd say it's a 7 of 10. Rebuilt the tranny because my reverse was also out. Most likely the wave washer seeing as I've heard about those a few times. If you would have done it yourself you could have picked up a used wave washer for $30. LTH + Exhaust is a good first mod. Maybe intake next, or a cam and heads. Don't go too far without suspension and stability additions, you'll have to start upgrading your rear end and transmission to handle all the new power also. One thing leads to another and it adds up quick. That's why I have a pile of parts sitting in the garage just waiting for me to get everything I want before I start on a single thing.

By the way I envy your birds color. I can't wait to finish modding so I can paint mine. Haven't decided between NBM or MB, possibly a mixture of my own. We'll see.

By the way I envy your birds color. I can't wait to finish modding so I can paint mine. Haven't decided between NBM or MB, possibly a mixture of my own. We'll see.

Thanks man, I envy yours as well. I wanted black so bad but couldn't find one for less than 11k anywhere that wasn't just all beat up. Also to your other post my plan is to go ls6 intake, smooth bellows, and throttle body all at the same time then upgrade the suspension and put 3.73s in it. Id like to put a stall in it but its my daily driver so I'm not sure how that'd work out.

2 owners, clean title, clean carfax, everything works great, A/C cold, tires are at about 75% tread but i am putting new c6 wheels and nitto tires on it anyway. The inside and outside both look great, no scratches or anything. I am putting texas speed long tube headers and true duals first as far as performance wise.

From what you just described, it sounds like you did allright. Enjoy the car :drive:

From what you just described, it sounds like you did allright. Enjoy the car :drive:

Thanks man!

If you are in eastern TN, get that thing running and drive it to Atlanta for the FBody Gathering this Memorial Day. Sounds like an excellent deal you got on that car!

By the way, parts are so plentiful, I would look for a rebuilt transmission before repairing one. Swapping things out can be cheaper than fixing them.

Congrats I think you got a good deal.

Headers,Cat Back,LS6 Intake Manifold,RLCA's PHD Rod,Subframe connectors should pretty much eat up that $1500:)

I think its a good deal too. Lets hope there are no hidden surprises though.

By the way, parts are so plentiful, I would look for a rebuilt transmission before repairing one. Swapping things out can be cheaper than fixing them.

Yeah in any other situation I would have done that but I knew the guy that's rebuilding it and he's doing that and installing a shift kit for SUPER cheap.

If you are in eastern TN, get that thing running and drive it to Atlanta for the FBody Gathering this Memorial Day. Sounds like an excellent deal you got on that car!

I'll definitely try to do that! Thanks for the heads up!

Congrats I think you got a good deal.

Headers,Cat Back,LS6 Intake Manifold,RLCA's PHD Rod,Subframe connectors should pretty much eat up that $1500:)

Yeah, thatll pretty much do it for my money.. :thumbsdow

As I have been told on here about starting mods, suspension lca, new poly bushings, gears, possibly new tubular k-member, pan hard bar, torque arm.

Only reason I put that if because i'm doing one for future mods on my car, looking to put it on a diet for straight line and possibly road track duties.

If this is the case then you need to search around here.
Poly bushings are only adequate if you only drive in a strait line on smooth surfaces, and even at that a rod end would perform better. Your suspension needs to articulate to work, poly bushings in control arms will bind, hurting handling and ride quality.
As for the rest of the mods, they may help marginally for traction(tires will make or break it), but won't do squat for handling. Suspension-wise Good shocks will make the biggest handling difference, followed by good springs and swaybars, and a watts link. Search around a lot before you buy anything, there are parts out there that do nothing, and parts that will hurt one performance aspect of the car (like handling or traction) but benefit the other.

If this is the case then you need to search around here.
Poly bushings are only adequate if you only drive in a strait line on smooth surfaces, and even at that a rod end would perform better. Your suspension needs to articulate to work, poly bushings in control arms will bind, hurting handling and ride quality.
As for the rest of the mods, they may help marginally for traction(tires will make or break it), but won't do squat for handling. Suspension-wise Good shocks will make the biggest handling difference, followed by good springs and swaybars, and a watts link. Search around a lot before you buy anything, there are parts out there that do nothing, and parts that will hurt one performance aspect of the car (like handling or traction) but benefit the other.

Do you have a website you would suggest to get the shocks, springs, and swaybar from?

Do you have a website you would suggest to get the shocks, springs, and swaybar from?

Yep, this is going to be the best bang for your buck IMO:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php?PartID=626&CategoryID=90&ModelID=7
Made ground up specifically for auto-x (fstock) and has proven itself with multiple national SCCA wins. This is not overly low or harsh, its firm but not jarring (think C5 Z06 or BMW E46 M3 like), and the balance and grip are ridiculous, you can push the car so hard...
See it in action here, and how Sam developed the setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weWQHijkSU8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDxe1lHIxuE
Take note this is a full weight, registered street car, no chassis stiffening, with just bolt ons and simple bolt in suspension with R compound (315) tires.

Not a bad deal.