ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

So I'm finally getting around to the finishing touches on my new 383 build; just need to fix an oil leak, install the racetronix fuel pump/hotwire kit, and dyno tune time!

Got a couple questions about the fuel pump install as it seems a bit intimidating; my buddy who is a service manager/mechanic on the side offered to help me with the install, maybe this weekend. Both him and the local shop I got an estimate on are insisting on dropping the axle; so no cutting up "trap doors" lol (not that I really care). FWIW...the local shop gave a $400 estimate because it would take most of the day...about how long would it take for me and my buddy to do this in a driveway with no lift Also, how big of a PITA is the install? Any tips or special tools needed? I'm on the fence on attempting this and wondering if I should just pay the professionals...(shop owner has a custom 57' with LT1 )

LVZ2881

iTrader: (4)

Plan on all day and dropping the axle and possible even having to cut the exhaust if its not a bolted or clamped catback. its a PITA. I had mine done in under an hour with a trap door.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Uggghhh...not what I wanted to hear but thanks; I'll try to convince my buddy help out with the "trap door" mod....I really don't want to spend my whole Saturday messing around with cutting up exhaust and dropping the axle, tank, ect. The shop pretty much flat out refused to do any cutting of trap doors...I guess liability concerns with gas/exhaust fumes...who knows.

Are there any noticeable power gains after the upgrade? My combo should be 400+ rwhp....so I know the stock one on now is marginal at best. I just wanted to make sure it goes on BEFORE the dyno tune so I don't have any unexpected mechanical issues or fuel starvation at 6500+ RPM come dyno day.

95sscamaro

iTrader: (6)

it's just about a all day thing, we did the install without dropping the axle only had the LCA bolts in and there is room to get the tank out. As far as HP gains, um it depends on how you look at it, you will be able to supply the motor with the proper amount of fuel in the higher rpm range, but it won't add any power.
watch out I put my pump in about a month ago and it already took a

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Damn, I would be pissed I suppose the trap door mod would come in handy for fuel pump install #3 LOL

95sscamaro

iTrader: (6)

yea, and Racetronix/ walbro have no warranty

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Most people who don't cut the trap door usually end up regretting it one way or another. There are far more destructive 'modifications' to f-body's than the trap door. I always laugh when people say it "compromises the structural integrity of the body."

6spd97ta

iTrader: (2)

I just did this about 2 months ago. Did it in the garage on jack stands by my self. Dropped the rear end and the exhaust and the heat shields. I did it over a couple days span here and there but figured on about 6 hrs total. Hardest part was wrestling the filler neck through the small hole in the body. Also if you drop the tank make sure you put it up straight and don't kink any of the vent tubes. The hot wire kit was pretty simple. The instructions are very detailed and in full color.

stevo9389

i was adamant about cutting into my car for a trap door when it came time to replace my fuel pump. had it in my head it would would: 1. devalue the car, 2. varpors escaping around sparks from cutting and 3. the inside of the car smelling like gas after sealing it back up. the deciding factor was not wanting to empty a full tank of gas so i dont crush myself when dropping a tank. never been more satisfied with a "mod" like that as i replaced it 2 more times before i found a voltage issue causing the pumps to prematurely fail. there were no leaks so no fire/explosion, it sealed up great and since they will have to bury me in my car i dont have to worry about the value decreasing.

strokeme

iTrader: (1)

Helped a friend do his in my garage with a couple jackstands..yes we had to lower the axle a bit but that's really not all that hard. Did one in my car last fall and the actual install was probably one of the easiest, most detailed installs I've ever done. IMO dropping the tank is the better way to make certain u get everything clean and don't contaminate the tank with dirt to cause the pump to prematurely fail. Sure it's a little more work, but for something that may not have warranty I'm going to make damn sure I did everything I could to prevent it from failing. I'm sure not everyone will agree with me, but that's my opinion.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Cleanliness is next to godliness, especially when it comes to working on your vehicle. It should go without saying that an open gas tank deserves a CLEAN environment. If you can't figure out that the area needs to be clean then maybe you shouldn't be working on the car in the first place.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

So me and my mechanic friend tackled the install finally on Saturday. We did it the hard way but it wasn't quite as bad as I expected; we had it done in 5hrs with his air tools....would have been 4hrs if not for wrestling with the gas tank forever trying to get it back in it's hole due to the rear subframe being slightly tweaked due to a rear-end hit years ago The car started right up and my buddy starts driving around doing burnouts through his neighborhood...all is well Then came the part like an episode of "The Outer Limits" or "Twilight zone" where I slipped into another realm of dimension otherwise known as LT1 hell on my drive home I stop to put some gas in it; fill it up halfway since it was practically bone dry and notice the gas gauge hasn't moved a bit...WTF?! Then, a few miles down the road I let it loose to pass a slow moving minivan and all the sudden it falls flat on it's face at 4500 RPM for 3-4 seconds then the power comes immediately back as if a sudden loss in fuel pressure It drove completely normally for the 15 min drive home except for 3 or 4 times of doing this when beating on it at WOT for a few seconds at a time. I proceeded to call my buddy when I got home to say "I told you so" about the trap door mod LOL. I then took it for a 10 minute drive the next day and beat on it some more to see if it was doing the same **** and it was running strong as ever...no issue whatsoever....and the gas gauge had moved overnight and was now reading 1/2 tank I guess I will fill it up and see what happens; hopefully the float/ level sensor didn't get messed up being manhandled put in the tank My main concern was the loss of fuel pressure suddenly; my theory is maybe there was air in the gas lines from being disconnected? Is it possible the pump could be defective to work 99% of the time and barf at WOT? I need to drive the car some more but to try to replicate the issue but it's raining Anybody have a weird fuel pressure "hiccup" immediately after fuel pump install?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

No it should operate as normal. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the Schraeder and position it where you can see it through the windshield, take vacuum line off AFPR, go for a spin, do some short WOT runs and see what your fuel pressure does. It should remain steady at 43 to 45psi. As far as your gas gauge is concerned, could it be something blocking the float?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Thanks...I will drive it ASAP to try to see if it has the problem anymore with fuel pressure then go that route; seems odd it would act up then be fine the next day. Maybe it was just air in the fuel lines. I'm going to fill up the gas tank when I get home and see if the gauge is reading it...there's no telling if the float is blocked, I notice my buddy had some trouble getting the fuel pump unit back in the tank....hopefully he didn't force anything or we'll be cutting a hole in the car....lol.

BTC

I think it would be pretty easy to install the fuel pump assembly into the tank incorrectly via a little bit of force. It definitely fits in one way and you'll know when you have it inserted correctly.

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

How's your fuel filter?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Funny you mention that...I was trying to convince my buddy to go ahead and replace with a new one while we were at it messing with the fuel pump/hotwire install as it is a stock vintage 1994 filter for all I know; but it was getting late and dark with no time for a part store run so we just tried to get it back together and save that for another weekend project....will replace that this weekend since no telling how much gunk is in it with 150K. What's "normal" mileage for replacing fuel filters anyway?

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Recommended interval is about 30-45k miles. I dunno how old my fuel filter was when I replaced it a couple weeks ago, but it was full of nasty black liquid and a little gunk. .

WS Sick

I tired to shove it in through my filler neck and that didn't work, so I just cut a holt in the floor, I'm still alive. and when I borrowed some money against my car to get me a nice transmission they didnt even look at it, they just looked at the Kelly Blue book trade in....

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Impossible, unless your feed line in the tank is not sealed. It only takes seconds for fuel to make a journey from the pump to the fuel rail and back into the tank therefore any air would be purged quickly.