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Buy a used LS3?

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Old 06-06-2012, 09:55 AM
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Default Buy a used LS3?

My LS1 has 74k on it and I am deciding whether to keep the car or not. Down the road I am planning on putting a blower (D1SC) on it and internals as well. I will prob eventually do the bottom end too.

On the other hand....

If I am planning on keeping this car the mileage is getting up there and my biggest concern is reliability.

Where are some good places to find a low mileage used LS3 for a good price and how much does one typically go for??

I am in love with the Ls3...

Thanks
Old 06-06-2012, 11:45 AM
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New one from GM is under $5K why gamble?
Old 06-06-2012, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 427 zeo6
New one from GM is under $5K why gamble?
I thought they were round $7k. And if I can find a used one with under 15k miles I'm sure I will be saving some decent $$. Maybe out of a crashed car
Old 06-06-2012, 02:36 PM
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if youre willing to settle for an iron block, the L92 is even cheaper. find a shortblock from someone, and add a nice set of heads etc and you got a great motor for under 7k
Old 06-06-2012, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
if youre willing to settle for an iron block, the L92 is even cheaper. find a shortblock from someone, and add a nice set of heads etc and you got a great motor for under 7k
See that is what I was originally planning on doing. But I was under the impression that buying the 6.0 block. (Plus all the components, internals, computer, etc) would be considerably more what a LS3 would cost brand new...

My lack of knowledge with the subject is what I really want to be enlightened on...At 18 I had a 94 z28, then a 2004 GTO, and now my 01 Z28 which I have had since I was 21, now I am 25. I have never really dealt with anything but LT1's and LS1's...
Old 06-06-2012, 05:01 PM
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well the L92 is a 6.2L block. essentially an LS3 with a few differences.

If you picked up an L92 shortblock with the flycut pistons, added a ncie H/C setup (roughly 3k) you could have a very stout motor without having to "build" the bottom end.
Old 06-06-2012, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
if youre willing to settle for an iron block, the L92 is even cheaper. find a shortblock from someone, and add a nice set of heads etc and you got a great motor for under 7k
L92 is aluminum block... LY6 is iron.
Old 06-06-2012, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Coban
L92 is aluminum block... LY6 is iron.
Are ya sure about that? Its found in large escalades etc. im pretty sure they are iron blocks, or there are both iron and alum versions
Old 06-06-2012, 09:16 PM
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L92 is an aluminum block. I just built me a 416 with one. The biggest difference between an LS3 and L92 is the displacement on demand in the L92.
Old 06-06-2012, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 01 blue ss
L92 is an aluminum block. I just built me a 416 with one. The biggest difference between an LS3 and L92 is the displacement on demand in the L92.
I've got a L92 and just had the lifters replaced under warranty. It's aluminum.

OP, regarding the LS1, have you considered rebuilding it?
Old 06-06-2012, 09:37 PM
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Why even rebuild the ls1 at 74k miles?

People do cam & heads on 100k + ls1 motors.

Op unless you just want more cubes to start with , why not mod the ls1?
Old 06-07-2012, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
well the L92 is a 6.2L block. essentially an LS3 with a few differences.

If you picked up an L92 shortblock with the flycut pistons, added a ncie H/C setup (roughly 3k) you could have a very stout motor without having to "build" the bottom end.
Im planning on putting a blower on it down the road which I would prob have to do the bottom end?

Originally Posted by 1981TA
I've got a L92 and just had the lifters replaced under warranty. It's aluminum.

OP, regarding the LS1, have you considered rebuilding it?
Originally Posted by bad_408_vert
Why even rebuild the ls1 at 74k miles?

People do cam & heads on 100k + ls1 motors.

Op unless you just want more cubes to start with , why not mod the ls1?
Well the thing is I am really going for reliabilty and will be keeping this car for the long haul. I dont feel too comfortable with 74k on it all ready.

Plus the extra cubes would be nice.

Or could I just build a blower motor out of my current LS1 if I beef up the bottom end? Is it worth it or better to do the iron block? Or just screw it and get a ls3?

I am looking for around 700rwhp+ when it is all said and done.

What would you guys recommend if you were in my shoes
Old 06-07-2012, 02:08 PM
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iron block cheapest & best for boost, it weighs 80lbs more than aluminum but does it really matter when you have 550+ rwhp.

Ls3 + FI or Forged ls1 + FI may cost about the same in the end.
Finding a good deal than rebuidling ls1 would be better idea.
Old 06-07-2012, 02:34 PM
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Iron block for boost.
LS3 for a healthly all-motor semi budget build.

I myself have been eyeing some LS3 stock replacement's from Thompson Motorsport

Check them out. Stock rebuild with clevite bearing for a really good price. Add in a few hundred to put the Gen4 block in the T/A. A nice set of heads you could have a 500+ car for 7k I would say.
Old 06-07-2012, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bad_408_vert
iron block cheapest & best for boost, it weighs 80lbs more than aluminum but does it really matter when you have 550+ rwhp.

Ls3 + FI or Forged ls1 + FI may cost about the same in the end.
Finding a good deal than rebuidling ls1 would be better idea.

Originally Posted by My6speedZ
Iron block for boost.
LS3 for a healthly all-motor semi budget build.

I myself have been eyeing some LS3 stock replacement's from Thompson Motorsport

Check them out. Stock rebuild with clevite bearing for a really good price. Add in a few hundred to put the Gen4 block in the T/A. A nice set of heads you could have a 500+ car for 7k I would say.
So the Iron block is the best way to go for boost huh?

How much you think I can get for my LS1 ? lol

Is the 6.0 better for boost just because it is iron?
Old 06-07-2012, 04:18 PM
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Go for the biggest bore you can (ls3)

Iron is better for boost because the cylinder sleeves/wall are much thicker, and block has less tendancy to flex with more holding power.
Old 06-07-2012, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bad_408_vert
iron block cheapest & best for boost, it weighs 80lbs more than aluminum but does it really matter when you have 550+ rwhp.

Ls3 + FI or Forged ls1 + FI may cost about the same in the end.
Finding a good deal than rebuidling ls1 would be better idea.
Not really. There are guys with well more than 550rwhp with aluminum blocks on boost. Mark Koehler pushed 1300 rwhp out of a stock ls2 block and ran 7.99 before he cracked a sleeve


Originally Posted by My6speedZ
Iron block for boost.
LS3 for a healthly all-motor semi budget build.
I say again, The aluminum block can handle more power than you think. It doesn't always have to be an iron block for boost.

Originally Posted by Tainted
Go for the biggest bore you can (ls3)

Iron is better for boost because the cylinder sleeves/wall are much thicker, and block has less tendancy to flex with more holding power.
This is partially true when you are pushing alot of boost but we are talking well past the 1000rwhp category. So this wouldn't be the case for the OP.

There have been guys here that have pushed aluminum blocks past 20 psi like its and everyday thing. Skinnies, with his aluminum block 5.3, 8's in the rx7 and 9's in the ltd. Mightymouse, when he had the stock ls2 block, 995rwhp street car. AutomagicLS1 988 rwhp on a stock block forged internal ls1.

Hell, Edelbrock sells a blower for LS3 camaros that put it in the neighborhood of 699 crank hp with a freaking warranty.

OP, just rebuild your LS1 with forged internals with the stock crank and you can slap a D1 or a 76mm turbo kit on there and obtain your goals.
Old 06-07-2012, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 87silverbullet
Not really. There are guys with well more than 550rwhp with aluminum blocks on boost. Mark Koehler pushed 1300 rwhp out of a stock ls2 block and ran 7.99 before he cracked a sleeve




I say again, The aluminum block can handle more power than you think. It doesn't always have to be an iron block for boost.



This is partially true when you are pushing alot of boost but we are talking well past the 1000rwhp category. So this wouldn't be the case for the OP.

There have been guys here that have pushed aluminum blocks past 20 psi like its and everyday thing. Skinnies, with his aluminum block 5.3, 8's in the rx7 and 9's in the ltd. Mightymouse, when he had the stock ls2 block, 995rwhp street car. AutomagicLS1 988 rwhp on a stock block forged internal ls1.

Hell, Edelbrock sells a blower for LS3 camaros that put it in the neighborhood of 699 crank hp with a freaking warranty.

OP, just rebuild your LS1 with forged internals with the stock crank and you can slap a D1 or a 76mm turbo kit on there and obtain your goals.
So if I go the forged internal path with my ls1 even though I have 74k on the clock, it will not sacrifice any reliabilty?

My engine would pretty much be new besides the block, am I correct when I say that?

I dont really plan on pushing more than 800rwhp, However I would have to push more boost in my Ls1 to attain the same power out of the Iron block because of the displacement.

Is there a difference between the two when it comes to price and best bang for your buck?

Im just trying to figure out if its worth it to still do the iron block in the long run or if for what I am going for, will my LS1 will do the trick (forged) but I am going to put some of the best components I can in it, so will it still be cheaper?
Old 06-07-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Raoul-Duke
So if I go the forged internal path with my ls1 even though I have 74k on the clock, it will not sacrifice any reliabilty?

My engine would pretty much be new besides the block, am I correct when I say that?

I dont really plan on pushing more than 800rwhp, However I would have to push more boost in my Ls1 to attain the same power out of the Iron block because of the displacement.

Is there a difference between the two when it comes to price and best bang for your buck?

Im just trying to figure out if its worth it to still do the iron block in the long run or if for what I am going for, will my LS1 will do the trick (forged) but I am going to put some of the best components I can in it, so will it still be cheaper?
Forged does not sacrifice driveability or longevity in an engine. Who you get to machine it will make or break the reliability of it.

Yes it would be all new except the block and crank. Displacement is only one factor in making power in a boosted setup. The heads and cam will dictate power just like a N/A motor, including the amount of boost you run.

Since you have an LS1 block already that puts you ahead of the game since you already have it and don't have to buy a block. If you just want to be able to drive around in your car while you build an engine for boost then you can start seaching for a block. The LS2 block has the best walls for boost but iron block are found cheap all day long on here.

The budget iron block build is the stock crank 4.030 build. it gets you 370 cubes and wroks well with boost, depending on your cam and head choice.

Your budget aluminum build would be your LS1 since you have the block and crank and all you would need would be rods and pistons. Still works well with boost and take your pick on cam and head choice.
Old 06-07-2012, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 87silverbullet
Not really. There are guys with well more than 550rwhp with aluminum blocks on boost. Mark Koehler pushed 1300 rwhp out of a stock ls2 block and ran 7.99 before he cracked a sleeve




I say again, The aluminum block can handle more power than you think. It doesn't always have to be an iron block for boost.



This is partially true when you are pushing alot of boost but we are talking well past the 1000rwhp category. So this wouldn't be the case for the OP.

There have been guys here that have pushed aluminum blocks past 20 psi like its and everyday thing. Skinnies, with his aluminum block 5.3, 8's in the rx7 and 9's in the ltd. Mightymouse, when he had the stock ls2 block, 995rwhp street car. AutomagicLS1 988 rwhp on a stock block forged internal ls1.

Hell, Edelbrock sells a blower for LS3 camaros that put it in the neighborhood of 699 crank hp with a freaking warranty.

OP, just rebuild your LS1 with forged internals with the stock crank and you can slap a D1 or a 76mm turbo kit on there and obtain your goals.
I know the Aluminum block will handle 700rwhp, for the cost though I was saying iron block. I was just thinking boost ready 5.3 shortblock from AES is 2600 and the 370 is 3200.

Throw in their hand ported 317's for a grand and your ready to rock.

Get your iron block have it machined then assembled, pick up some heads for it... do it a piece at a time and still drive your car.

Just throwing out different options for different situations.

Edit: Now that I am thinking about it a forged rebuild on your 347 would be a very realistic choice if your only plan on going D1 down the road.


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