Buy a used LS3?
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Buy a used LS3?
My LS1 has 74k on it and I am deciding whether to keep the car or not. Down the road I am planning on putting a blower (D1SC) on it and internals as well. I will prob eventually do the bottom end too.
On the other hand....
If I am planning on keeping this car the mileage is getting up there and my biggest concern is reliability.
Where are some good places to find a low mileage used LS3 for a good price and how much does one typically go for??
I am in love with the Ls3...
Thanks
On the other hand....
If I am planning on keeping this car the mileage is getting up there and my biggest concern is reliability.
Where are some good places to find a low mileage used LS3 for a good price and how much does one typically go for??
I am in love with the Ls3...
Thanks
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My lack of knowledge with the subject is what I really want to be enlightened on...At 18 I had a 94 z28, then a 2004 GTO, and now my 01 Z28 which I have had since I was 21, now I am 25. I have never really dealt with anything but LT1's and LS1's...
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Plus the extra cubes would be nice.
Or could I just build a blower motor out of my current LS1 if I beef up the bottom end? Is it worth it or better to do the iron block? Or just screw it and get a ls3?
I am looking for around 700rwhp+ when it is all said and done.
What would you guys recommend if you were in my shoes
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Iron block for boost.
LS3 for a healthly all-motor semi budget build.
I myself have been eyeing some LS3 stock replacement's from Thompson Motorsport
Check them out. Stock rebuild with clevite bearing for a really good price. Add in a few hundred to put the Gen4 block in the T/A. A nice set of heads you could have a 500+ car for 7k I would say.
LS3 for a healthly all-motor semi budget build.
I myself have been eyeing some LS3 stock replacement's from Thompson Motorsport
Check them out. Stock rebuild with clevite bearing for a really good price. Add in a few hundred to put the Gen4 block in the T/A. A nice set of heads you could have a 500+ car for 7k I would say.
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Iron block for boost.
LS3 for a healthly all-motor semi budget build.
I myself have been eyeing some LS3 stock replacement's from Thompson Motorsport
Check them out. Stock rebuild with clevite bearing for a really good price. Add in a few hundred to put the Gen4 block in the T/A. A nice set of heads you could have a 500+ car for 7k I would say.
LS3 for a healthly all-motor semi budget build.
I myself have been eyeing some LS3 stock replacement's from Thompson Motorsport
Check them out. Stock rebuild with clevite bearing for a really good price. Add in a few hundred to put the Gen4 block in the T/A. A nice set of heads you could have a 500+ car for 7k I would say.
How much you think I can get for my LS1 ? lol
Is the 6.0 better for boost just because it is iron?
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There have been guys here that have pushed aluminum blocks past 20 psi like its and everyday thing. Skinnies, with his aluminum block 5.3, 8's in the rx7 and 9's in the ltd. Mightymouse, when he had the stock ls2 block, 995rwhp street car. AutomagicLS1 988 rwhp on a stock block forged internal ls1.
Hell, Edelbrock sells a blower for LS3 camaros that put it in the neighborhood of 699 crank hp with a freaking warranty.
OP, just rebuild your LS1 with forged internals with the stock crank and you can slap a D1 or a 76mm turbo kit on there and obtain your goals.
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Not really. There are guys with well more than 550rwhp with aluminum blocks on boost. Mark Koehler pushed 1300 rwhp out of a stock ls2 block and ran 7.99 before he cracked a sleeve
I say again, The aluminum block can handle more power than you think. It doesn't always have to be an iron block for boost.
This is partially true when you are pushing alot of boost but we are talking well past the 1000rwhp category. So this wouldn't be the case for the OP.
There have been guys here that have pushed aluminum blocks past 20 psi like its and everyday thing. Skinnies, with his aluminum block 5.3, 8's in the rx7 and 9's in the ltd. Mightymouse, when he had the stock ls2 block, 995rwhp street car. AutomagicLS1 988 rwhp on a stock block forged internal ls1.
Hell, Edelbrock sells a blower for LS3 camaros that put it in the neighborhood of 699 crank hp with a freaking warranty.
OP, just rebuild your LS1 with forged internals with the stock crank and you can slap a D1 or a 76mm turbo kit on there and obtain your goals.
I say again, The aluminum block can handle more power than you think. It doesn't always have to be an iron block for boost.
This is partially true when you are pushing alot of boost but we are talking well past the 1000rwhp category. So this wouldn't be the case for the OP.
There have been guys here that have pushed aluminum blocks past 20 psi like its and everyday thing. Skinnies, with his aluminum block 5.3, 8's in the rx7 and 9's in the ltd. Mightymouse, when he had the stock ls2 block, 995rwhp street car. AutomagicLS1 988 rwhp on a stock block forged internal ls1.
Hell, Edelbrock sells a blower for LS3 camaros that put it in the neighborhood of 699 crank hp with a freaking warranty.
OP, just rebuild your LS1 with forged internals with the stock crank and you can slap a D1 or a 76mm turbo kit on there and obtain your goals.
My engine would pretty much be new besides the block, am I correct when I say that?
I dont really plan on pushing more than 800rwhp, However I would have to push more boost in my Ls1 to attain the same power out of the Iron block because of the displacement.
Is there a difference between the two when it comes to price and best bang for your buck?
Im just trying to figure out if its worth it to still do the iron block in the long run or if for what I am going for, will my LS1 will do the trick (forged) but I am going to put some of the best components I can in it, so will it still be cheaper?
#19
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So if I go the forged internal path with my ls1 even though I have 74k on the clock, it will not sacrifice any reliabilty?
My engine would pretty much be new besides the block, am I correct when I say that?
I dont really plan on pushing more than 800rwhp, However I would have to push more boost in my Ls1 to attain the same power out of the Iron block because of the displacement.
Is there a difference between the two when it comes to price and best bang for your buck?
Im just trying to figure out if its worth it to still do the iron block in the long run or if for what I am going for, will my LS1 will do the trick (forged) but I am going to put some of the best components I can in it, so will it still be cheaper?
My engine would pretty much be new besides the block, am I correct when I say that?
I dont really plan on pushing more than 800rwhp, However I would have to push more boost in my Ls1 to attain the same power out of the Iron block because of the displacement.
Is there a difference between the two when it comes to price and best bang for your buck?
Im just trying to figure out if its worth it to still do the iron block in the long run or if for what I am going for, will my LS1 will do the trick (forged) but I am going to put some of the best components I can in it, so will it still be cheaper?
Yes it would be all new except the block and crank. Displacement is only one factor in making power in a boosted setup. The heads and cam will dictate power just like a N/A motor, including the amount of boost you run.
Since you have an LS1 block already that puts you ahead of the game since you already have it and don't have to buy a block. If you just want to be able to drive around in your car while you build an engine for boost then you can start seaching for a block. The LS2 block has the best walls for boost but iron block are found cheap all day long on here.
The budget iron block build is the stock crank 4.030 build. it gets you 370 cubes and wroks well with boost, depending on your cam and head choice.
Your budget aluminum build would be your LS1 since you have the block and crank and all you would need would be rods and pistons. Still works well with boost and take your pick on cam and head choice.
#20
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Not really. There are guys with well more than 550rwhp with aluminum blocks on boost. Mark Koehler pushed 1300 rwhp out of a stock ls2 block and ran 7.99 before he cracked a sleeve
I say again, The aluminum block can handle more power than you think. It doesn't always have to be an iron block for boost.
This is partially true when you are pushing alot of boost but we are talking well past the 1000rwhp category. So this wouldn't be the case for the OP.
There have been guys here that have pushed aluminum blocks past 20 psi like its and everyday thing. Skinnies, with his aluminum block 5.3, 8's in the rx7 and 9's in the ltd. Mightymouse, when he had the stock ls2 block, 995rwhp street car. AutomagicLS1 988 rwhp on a stock block forged internal ls1.
Hell, Edelbrock sells a blower for LS3 camaros that put it in the neighborhood of 699 crank hp with a freaking warranty.
OP, just rebuild your LS1 with forged internals with the stock crank and you can slap a D1 or a 76mm turbo kit on there and obtain your goals.
I say again, The aluminum block can handle more power than you think. It doesn't always have to be an iron block for boost.
This is partially true when you are pushing alot of boost but we are talking well past the 1000rwhp category. So this wouldn't be the case for the OP.
There have been guys here that have pushed aluminum blocks past 20 psi like its and everyday thing. Skinnies, with his aluminum block 5.3, 8's in the rx7 and 9's in the ltd. Mightymouse, when he had the stock ls2 block, 995rwhp street car. AutomagicLS1 988 rwhp on a stock block forged internal ls1.
Hell, Edelbrock sells a blower for LS3 camaros that put it in the neighborhood of 699 crank hp with a freaking warranty.
OP, just rebuild your LS1 with forged internals with the stock crank and you can slap a D1 or a 76mm turbo kit on there and obtain your goals.
Throw in their hand ported 317's for a grand and your ready to rock.
Get your iron block have it machined then assembled, pick up some heads for it... do it a piece at a time and still drive your car.
Just throwing out different options for different situations.
Edit: Now that I am thinking about it a forged rebuild on your 347 would be a very realistic choice if your only plan on going D1 down the road.