Ls1 Tfs 215's Ms4 Cam- Rod Problem. ARP 2000 bolts
07-21-2012, 11:31 PM
#1
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Ls1 Tfs 215's Ms4 Cam- Rod Problem. ARP 2000 bolts Well I'll start with the specs.
Stock 5.7 block (Approx. 42k miles) Prepped and cleaned.
Stock Crank. (had it cleaned up but Mains and Rod B's are stock size)
Stock rods ( With ARP 2000 bolts) New bearings also.
Mahle pistons 3.989 bore power pack -4cc
Piston rings Top - .017 Second - .013 Oil ring - 0.015
Main caps Stock with new bearings with ARP studs.
TFS 215cc cylinder heads
Ms4 cam 112 Lsa
Well today i decided to work on the short block installed the crank torqued down the studs just as ARP instructions showed.
Inside bolts 50lbs
Outside bolt 60lbs
Side bolts 20 lbs
Crank spun just fine. (could spin the crank just using my hand.)
Well i continued to the pistons installed them.
Got the rods and crank bolted down Hand tight only.
Crank was still moving just fine.
Got to torquing down the rods to 45 lbs as ARP Recommends.
after that crank wouldn't spin even if God him self tried to move it.
unbolted the rods and to see the bearing to be toast.
tried torquing them only to 15 lbs to see if that would help.
well it would spin but still had trouble.
Can Some one point out my idiotness lol.?
I really wanted to get this bad boy up and running soon.
Stock 5.7 block (Approx. 42k miles) Prepped and cleaned.
Stock Crank. (had it cleaned up but Mains and Rod B's are stock size)
Stock rods ( With ARP 2000 bolts) New bearings also.
Mahle pistons 3.989 bore power pack -4cc
Piston rings Top - .017 Second - .013 Oil ring - 0.015
Main caps Stock with new bearings with ARP studs.
TFS 215cc cylinder heads
Ms4 cam 112 Lsa
Well today i decided to work on the short block installed the crank torqued down the studs just as ARP instructions showed.
Inside bolts 50lbs
Outside bolt 60lbs
Side bolts 20 lbs
Crank spun just fine. (could spin the crank just using my hand.)
Well i continued to the pistons installed them.
Got the rods and crank bolted down Hand tight only.
Crank was still moving just fine.
Got to torquing down the rods to 45 lbs as ARP Recommends.
after that crank wouldn't spin even if God him self tried to move it.
unbolted the rods and to see the bearing to be toast.
tried torquing them only to 15 lbs to see if that would help.
well it would spin but still had trouble.
Can Some one point out my idiotness lol.?
I really wanted to get this bad boy up and running soon.
07-22-2012, 06:28 AM
#3
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did you measure the clearances first?
for reference, using beam type torque wrenches I measured < 2 lb-ft resistance with crank only installed, and 10 lb-ft with all pistons and rods.
for reference, using beam type torque wrenches I measured < 2 lb-ft resistance with crank only installed, and 10 lb-ft with all pistons and rods.
07-22-2012, 08:23 AM
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07-22-2012, 03:01 PM
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clearance (dimension) between the inside diameter of the rod bearings and outside diameter of the crankshaft rod journals. This needs to be checked to ensure its in the right range (.0020" - .0025", give or take).
sounds to me like your clearance is at or near zero which is why your crank will not turn over. you probably need to get new bearings to account for the clash, but you won't know until you measure. you need a 2-3" outside micrometer and a dial bore gauge to measure, or just take the parts to the machine shop and have them do it.
btw, the same applies for the main bearings on the crank/block (0.0025" - 0.0030" give or take).
sounds to me like your clearance is at or near zero which is why your crank will not turn over. you probably need to get new bearings to account for the clash, but you won't know until you measure. you need a 2-3" outside micrometer and a dial bore gauge to measure, or just take the parts to the machine shop and have them do it.
btw, the same applies for the main bearings on the crank/block (0.0025" - 0.0030" give or take).
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07-22-2012, 04:09 PM
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clearance (dimension) between the inside diameter of the rod bearings and outside diameter of the crankshaft rod journals. This needs to be checked to ensure its in the right range (.0020" - .0025", give or take).
sounds to me like your clearance is at or near zero which is why your crank will not turn over. you probably need to get new bearings to account for the clash, but you won't know until you measure. you need a 2-3" outside micrometer and a dial bore gauge to measure, or just take the parts to the machine shop and have them do it.
btw, the same applies for the main bearings on the crank/block (0.0025" - 0.0030" give or take).
sounds to me like your clearance is at or near zero which is why your crank will not turn over. you probably need to get new bearings to account for the clash, but you won't know until you measure. you need a 2-3" outside micrometer and a dial bore gauge to measure, or just take the parts to the machine shop and have them do it.
btw, the same applies for the main bearings on the crank/block (0.0025" - 0.0030" give or take).
07-28-2012, 02:28 PM
#16
.0025" is probably your rod bearing clearance, which is perfectly fine. Rod side clearance should be at least 4 times that amount, and since you're using the stock rods, I highly doubt that's your problem.
What are the part numbers on the back of the bearings? What machine work was performed, if any? How did you confirm you had .0025" bearing clearance?
What are the part numbers on the back of the bearings? What machine work was performed, if any? How did you confirm you had .0025" bearing clearance?
