BlackImpSS

iTrader: (1)

What do you guys think of this combo.

Advanced Inductions Cnc'd 5.3 heads.
With these options 2.00/1.55 Manley Racemaster stainless valves, new GM castings. BTR .650" capable dual springkit w/ Ti retainers

I am thinking having them milled too 58cc combustion chamber.

226/234 .600/.600 113 Cam

The guy I spoke with said these heads/cam typically dyno low 400's on the 5.3 truck/SUV platform.

Thanks for the help!

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

Do you DD the car? Are your prepared to put a stall converter (3000+ stall) in it?

That's a pretty big cam for a 5.3, so if you don't reduced drivability, you'll probably be happy with it.

BlackImpSS

iTrader: (1)

I planned on 3.69 gears as well as a 3000 stall. As of jan the car will no longer be a DD as I will be getting a 4wd truck or SUV for my gf to drive. This cam isn't set in stone AI just gave me 2 options that the 5.3 guys tend too run.

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

That cam is huge. Advertised duration makes a difference too. I would also like to know what the lobe centers are.

With a 58cc head you would be sitting at 10.8:1 with a .051" MLS gasket.
If the cam is installed "stright up" the IVC will be 46* and overlap will be +4
I would recommend 11:1 or better or in order to have a dynamic compression ratio of 8.5 or better. You could also advance the camshaft a few degrees in order to get the intake valve to closes a little earlier.

I shift at 6500 now with my new heads and compression. Before my head swap I was shifting at 6800. I would imagine that cam would want a 7000 shift or better.

I see problems:

-LS6 intake with the stock TB will run out of steam after 6200 (I am pushing it)
-DT headers only have a single 3" collector. RPM above 6000 and HP above 380HP will benifit from a 3.50" collector (My problem) Altough a 234 duration will scavage the cylinders pretty good at high RPM. just remember that the exhaust vlave opening will be robbing low end power from the power stroke, and the overlap will only provide 12-14" hg at idle without a load. Good tuning is a must!
-3.69 gears will cross the 1/4 mile at roughly 5400. (My problem) 3rd gear on the highway will be amazing though!
-Stall speed of 3500-4000 needed. Stall speed is great at the track but makes the engine feel doggy on the street, and cooks the trans fluid. This kind of stall speed would suck in a heavy car.

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

I am a big fan of Lunati cams. So I will provide you with a few.

1st choice
This cam would rock with headers and a LS6 intake. 3.29 gears would be perfect. TQ monster! Should dyno 320whp or better with a flat tq curve.6000-6200 shift points

•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 212/218
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .531"/.531"
•LSA/ICL: 113/109
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 1400-6200
•Includes: Cam Only

Part Number: 20540710

2nd choice
This cam is close to mine. It would be a great street/strip cam with 3.69 gears. My cam pulls 15" Hg at idle in P/N and feels a little big at times till I open it up. Power comes in real hard after 5000 RPM. Should dyno 330-350whp with a flat TQ curve. Will dyno more with head work.6500-6800 shift points

•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 267/273
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 217/223
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .549"/.549"
•LSA/ICL: 113/109
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 1800-6400
•Includes: Cam Only

Part Number: 20540713

3rd choice
Strip cam/weekend warrior. 3.69 gears with a 26" tire at the track is a must! This cam will need all of the rpm it can get before crossing through the 1/4 mile. 11:1 CR or better, 3.50 collector into a 3.50 cutout or exhaust, TPiS 90mm LS6 intake, 90mm TB with matching MAF and piping. A little big for street maners but it will work. 380whp with supporting mods. 6800-7200 shift points.

•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 272/278
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 222/228
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .567"/.567"
•LSA/ICL: 113/109
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 2000-6600
•Includes: Cam Only

Part Number: 20540711

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

You would be much happier going too small, then too big!

nmp0098

Just my $0.02, but I have no issues losing traction all through 1st with 3.29s, stock stall, and a 224/232 113 cam. The tires finally bite hard just in time to shift into 2nd, and I shift at 6830. Slicks would require more gear, but I'm not planning on running them. The engine idles fine at 700rpm with a good tune and at 800rpm with the right tune you won't even know it's cammed. Smaller is fine too, it just depends on where you want to make your torque. The biggest downside to cams in this range is the loss of low rpm efficiency, especially at idle, which effects mileage more than anything. Traffic jams murder my mileage. And with a stock throttle body, I'm pulling nearly 1psi of vacuum at WOT. All I'm saying is that a cam as big as you are looking at can be run.

I also recommend beehives over duals if the beehive can handle the lift. They are a lot easier on the lifters because of lower effective mass and friction, and there's a bit of power there.

David, you are running an LS2 Throttle Body correct? Did you have to add any external resistors or anything to get it to run without codes?

BlackImpSS

iTrader: (1)

Thank you guys for all the info. I will talk to AI a little more to see if I can get a dyno graph of that cam in a 5.3 with those heads. As well as more specs on the cam. I will be getting the heads from AI at a discounted price as they are already assembled because they had the buyer back out. I would go with the tpis ls6 with a ls2 tb if I go this route. I will be adding everything up to see what the price difference between this and the turbo route will be.

Will the ported ls6 oil pump work for our car? I believe that is what your running David, but not positive?

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

What is your manifold vacuum at idle, in (D), and Park? can you also provide me with KPA data? (outside pressure comparied to manifold pressure)

I am using the stock TB with Brians adapter at this time. At WOT I am under 1-2kpa after 5000 rpm. I am thinking that my TB/MAF/TUBING are causing a restriction. I am also certian that I need to step up to a 3.50" collector.
I bet your car screams up top, but gets restricted. Looking forward to some new slips! I am positive you are making more power then me, I am just not sure how usable it is.

No thank you to beehives. I ruined my last motor due to breakage and I used what was recommended. Just use good oil with duals, and change it often. It is important to let the engine warm up before taking off too, and to avoid excessive RPM before the oil reaches 180* This is my .002 cents haha. Beehives are indeed worth a little extra power though, and RPM.

I have no problem with frying the tires leaving in 2nd gear. Big cams tend to lose throttle response, and for a street car I am all about it. I am now running my drag radials everyday since I am fed up with blowing the tires off.
18x9.5 285/35/18 I cannot smoke the tires in 2nd with the DR setup.
These Nittos work great on the street but suck *** at the track 205cc heads with a dinky cam, good compression, and 3.69s work pretty good. I call this a small cam since LS engines are normally camed with 224 and above! I think I would go faster with a little less duration honestly. Going through the traps at 5400 is killing MPH. I would have to play it safe though; since my DCR is pretty high for pump gas. These engines heat soak like crazy

To the OP,
I am using a PP LS6 oil pump. It is the same pump used on the LS2 as well. (It's worth a few hp)
I stepped up to a Katech C5R chain, and replaced all of my lower end gaskets.
You might want to pull the engine to do everything. It comes out from the top pretty easy with the balancer removed.

Turbo is a good idea, but plan on spending 10K in order to do it right.

I am still waiting to see a 5.3L break 400whp N/A without spinning to the moon.
Again, my last dyno showed a 5000 peak tq number and it pissed me off. I blamed the heads, so I took them off. I still need a new tune, but the last guy charged me up the ***! Over $900.00 bucks!

Brian396

iTrader: (3)

Holy crap! I thought you was Lew tuned?

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

Yes Sir I was.
I needed the trans tuned and other issues knocked out. I am happy with his services, but the price was crazy.

BlackImpSS

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'm just thinking after heads, cam, intake, headers, exhaust, gaskets, head bolts, lifters, katech tray/adapter, injectors, tb I'm going to be pretty close to the cartuning kit. Either way ill need tuning and a built trans. Ill be putting a part list together in the next day or two so I should know how close pretty soon.

Just out of curiosity how well does the stock shortblock/ built trans hold up to the 500 whp cartuning claims?

$900 for tuning!!! That's pretty steep!!

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

If you have 6 grand laying around then I would just get the turbo kit from Kevin. 500whp!!! With a N/A build, you will always be wanting more. Stuff really starts to add up once you start trying to get over 350whp. Build the trans when it blows. The stock short block can take a beating with good tuning.

6000 for turbo
4000 for trans built for a turbo. Including the converter

TFS top end kit 3000 from summit or go your route (save 1200?)
LS6 intake 350 used
Headers 650
3" exhaust into dual 2.5" 1000
Katech tray, lifters, and guides 500

Sell your LS1 intake swap kit, and your heads to offset the N/A build -1000?
450 plus engine HP 350-380whp.

If the turbo ever blows your engine, then figure another 3000-4000 to get it fixed on top of the kit's price. Brian, and a few others have had no problems.

BlackImpSS

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's the only good thing about the H/C route. I can piece it together as I go. Dropping 6K at once is quite a bit. But I guess I can just save my pennies until I save it up. I had my g/f on board with me dropping 2k on the H/C this week though lol. But after 4-5k I think I'd be a little happier with 500 whp.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

Brian396

iTrader: (3)

Can you scratch up another 800?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-perfo...turbo-kit.html

BlackImpSS

iTrader: (1)

I probably could. What kind of number can be seen from the non inter cooled kits? Also what's a safe boost number?

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

About 350whp@5psi
There is a member on here who ran 12's at 109 untuned IIRC. He just bolted it on and went to the track. Impressive!

BlackImpSS

iTrader: (1)

I would also need a set of 42 lb injectors for this kit as well right?

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

Nope!

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

Buy the kit from super.
If you do, I am jumping all over the TPiS LS6 90mm intake. I will let them hack mine up. My brothers 4.8L has a 88mm TB for goodness sakes!

The angled Inlet looks promising!!!