HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I am planning to replace my entire speaker setup in my car. I want to be able to crank the volume and have it consistently CLEAR with a broad, deep audio range. I'm currently running all Alpine stuff, an Alpine CDA-9886 head unit, Alpine Type R 10" sub, and Alpine 500w mono amp. My amp just went out so I'm looking at a 5-channel Alpine PDX-V9 amp, mainly because it keeps 500w to the sub. I plan to get Type R component speakers for the doors, and probably the Bazooka 6.5" subs for the mid-bass in the sail panels, but I really don't know what I should go with for the hatch speakers? A coaxial 4"? What would be the best way to wire these into the 5 channel amp? Thanks for any advice

Fosnot

iTrader: (15)

If you're set on getting the hatch speakers, and you're rewiring to an aftermarket amp, just wire them in parallel (or series?) depending on the ohm ratings of each speaker. I'd assume they're both 4 ohm loads, which in parallel would give the amp a 2 ohm load, or in series it'd give an 8 (not really desirable)


Although I really like Alpine, if I had it over to do again I'd use all CDT stuff (sold by kee audio, a sponsor here). They're really great and can handle anything you throw at them.

That and Ian can also advise you what might be the best course of action, I've had great luck with him.

Capricio

Remove or bypass factory HPFs in the doors. Use Alpine crossover modules.

Drive the doors and hatch with your 5 channel amp. You may need to tilt your fader forward a bit.

Let the old Monsoon amp continue to drive your sail panels. Down the road, you can get an additional 2 or 4 channel amp to drive your sails with a bandpass configured if you want to.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I want hatch speakers because I hear distortion from them at high volume. I want crystal clarity at high volume. I have found some Alpine 4" coax speakers for like $60, I'll probably pick those up. They are probably not amazing, but better than stock I'm sure. CDT seems to have some good stuff I hear, but everything I've owned has been Alpine, and I've never had one issue or complaint from their stuff. Plus, CDT isn't sold where I have a credit card to . I have talked to Ian many times about his stuff, and the Bazooka's. Met him in Atlanta once, good guy.

I definitely would use the Alpine crossover for sure. The way I was thinking was 1 channel for driver door, 1 channel for passenger door, 1 for sails, 1 for hatch, and the 1 for the sub, using all 5 channels. I'd have the fronts on separate channels so I can hear the left/right differences heard in some songs.

What's your reasoning behind using the Monsoon to drive the sails? I'm curious. Would it have anything to do with that channel not intended for low frequencies? I'm not really sure.

Capricio

Just more effective use of available power. I guess your new amp will probably overshadow anything the Monsoon can do. You're already aware of compromises you're introducing with respect to stereo effects in the rear. I guess you have thought through how you will combine R and L stereo RCA inputs to create a blended "mono" input into both channels 3 and 4 on your Alpine amp.

Between your HU and new amp, you could send the sails a bandpass of 80-250 Hz. I still say, if you can afford it, go for a second amp to drive the sails proportionally and retain all your stereo effects. But what you have outlined should work.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Not really I'm new to complete amp wiring. I have installed several sets of speakers, subs, and mono amps among several cars, but 4/5 channel amp wiring is a whole different ballgame.

There is a HPF on the head unit that works pretty well, it saves the sails from hitting too low and crackling. It has 3 settings, 80, 120, and 160.

I'm certainly going to be doing plenty of reading on hooking this setup up. I want it done soon, so I'm going to start buying what I need.

Capricio

Actually, I think you're going to hit a little roadblock when you try to set the filters for the sails and rears on channels 3 and 4. You have to treat them the same, since the they share the same hardware filter on the amp, and 3 is supposed to mid-bass while you want 4 to be full range. You might be better off just deleting the hatch speakers, or letting the Monsoon drive them.