deangoodin

iTrader: (1)

New turbo guy here my 376 cid project ..would my alum block be ok in race app.would like to save the weight ?????

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Depends on the setup you have but yes aluminum blocks can take some good boost if built right plus they are lighter.

Whats your project or setup?

deangoodin

iTrader: (1)

76mm in real street trim,all out

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

Nothing wrong with aluminum block. Some go iron block when they really don't need too.

TNSS

iTrader: (2)

i think most run the iron block just because they are cheaper to buy. but if you already have a aluminum block i say rock it, it will handle quit a bit of power.

deangoodin

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys

SMOKNSS

iTrader: (3)

This!

That is what I have decided to do. After debating putting my LS1 back together or use the iron block that I have in the shop, I ultimately decided to put the LS1 back together. You don't seem so see alot of LS1s anymore that are really leaned on. I'm going to try it out, since I have had it for 4 years now, if I toast it I haven't really lost anything. I am going to see what it will do and see how I fair with the weight savings. Then later on I may end up putting the LQ4 together.

ls1curt

iTrader: (31)

I've been 8.8@156 at 3450lb on a stock ls1 block. 2 years of abuse and all the bearings still looked like new. Not sure how much more it will take though.

05RST2NV

iTrader: (4)

Great thread I was just wondering this!

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

You will be fine with the aluminum block.

TheLS1Lover

The only Aluminum Block I wouldn't trust for 800+ would be the LS1/6, this is just personal preference so don't go finding me one of BAKED or some other LS1 guys thread.

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

lq9, here, ran 3 years at 830 hp lol. Gone smaller tho.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

I'll stick with my heavy iron block . I didn't pick it to save money either.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I went iron because my goal with my 390ci is well over 1,000 RWHP. No way I want to hammer an aluminum block all the time with that much power. Yes, this guy and that guy made ???? Power with their aluminum blocks........but aluminum will be a ticking time bomb at 1,000 + RWHP. The smallest little hiccup and bye-bye engine. Iron is WAY more reliable and way stronger no matter how you slice it. And the extra weight is totally meaningless when you're talking about cars with 800+ RWHP. A car running mid 8's in the 1/4 mile with an aluminum block will still run mid 8's with 80 pounds added to it with an iron block.

.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

ding ding ding

TheLS1Lover

I agree with some points of that, but 80lbs is a lot in the 8s.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

It was an easy decision for me personally. How often to you get added strength for less money. Sure you gain a little baby fat in the front of the car, but hey....

I took at least 90-100lbs or more out of the front this week alone. More than enough to compensate for the gain. And it did not take long at all.



And for those wondering how, its simple;

HVAC Delete
ABS delete
Windshield Wipers/Motor
A/C delete
condensor
Tubular K member.
Other Miscellaneous items.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

If you are just concerned about going in a straight line, then the 100lbs (yes, it's 100+lbs heavier for iron than aluminum) isn't a big deal. But for us that enjoy carving the twisties, that extra 100lbs on the nose is a big difference. And for the street, ~700-800 rwhp is more than enough.

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

Exactly. Some forget that there is more to cars than just going straight. If I wanted more than 1000 I'd take a look at a iron block but there are good aluminum come out there.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

Well I don't plan on doing 130mph around any curves or anything but I am still pretty sure most of them are not slouches on the streets with good tires and fully adjustable suspensions.