AmericanMuscle

Hey everybody,

I'm trying to build a 408ci iron block motor for somewhere in the ball park of 7-10,000 dollars. I have just started research on this project, and I'm still trying to figure out what parts I want to use. Basically, I want the engine to be very reliable and well built. I would also like the to put down at least 500 rwhp with this motor. This project is about two years away, but I'm beginning research right now, to be sure that I build this thing exactly the way I want it. I would like to get to the point where I can put together a list of every part that is going into my motor.

As of right now, there are only a few things that I'am sure that I want to use in this motor. That is, stage III ported 6.0L heads, a hydrolic roller cam with the following specs 248/242 .612/.612 110 LSA, possibly Comp 921 valvesprings, Comp R lifters, with Comp adjustable rocker arms. I would like to have an electric water pump aswell as an upgraded fuel system.

Now for the parts that I'am unsure about.
Pistons
Stroker crank
Timing chain
Oil pump
Push rods
Retainers
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug wires
Intake manifold
Throttle boy
Etc, did I leave anything out?

I'm really concerned about getting a strong stroker crank, and a good set of pistons, what brands would you guy's recomend for those parts?

I'm very open to suggestions about every part that I listed, even the ones that I said I wanted to use.

I would also like to know if you guy's think it would be less expensive to buy the motor completely assembled, or to buy it peice by peice, when sales and group purchases occur on the parts that I need.

Thanks,
Joey

DenzSS

Well I'll throw in a few thoughts.

#1 Camshaft:
Don't even think about spec'ing a cam at this point. You aren't even close to that point. The cam was the last thing ordered for my 408. It was ordered 4 days before final assembly. Talk to a pro about your camshaft design, not one of the shelf cam guys. You have the opportunity to do everything correctly from the start. Always take that advantage when you get it. As I generally state, that cam is way too big for 99% of engines. Hell, it has a larger duration that my solid roller. You're going to have the advantage of stroke and displacement. Put them to use.

#2 Parts:

You have lots of choices here. We used Diamond in my stroker, but it isn't a requirement

For your budget, I think strongly about the 4.00" Callies Racemaster. Good crank.

Lots of choices. Just get a good adjustable timing chain.

Ported/blueprinted stock pump works very well.

Lots of choices. Typically Comp

If you're going to use the Comp 26921-16 springs, just buy the whole kit for around $550. It comes with springs, seats, titanium retainers, and new seals. As a bit of advice, don't worry about valvetrain at all until you need it. Once your cam design is finished, then match the valvetrain to the cam.

Lots of choices out there. 99% will work fine. Decide on gap and heat range once you know more about the engine. Minor issue compared to everything else.

At this point in time, use a 78mm LSX/ported stock TB combination. It will keep you in your budget and should do quite well.

#3 Crate or custom.
If you can afford it, always go custom.

#4 Machining:
Get the best machining you can afford. You are only as good as your tolerances.

#5 Connecting Rods (you left them out)
Get the best you can afford. Carillo, Dyer, Oliver, whatever. Talk to your machinist.

#6 Cylinder Heads (you left them out as well)
Get the best you can afford. Find a good porter and work with them to come up with a good design for your engine. DO NOT MILL YOUR HEADS. Have the chambers welded and the chambers cut to unshroud the valves.

#7 Compression ratio
Obviously this depends on a lot of things, but unshrouding the valves on a 4.030" bore will allow you to run a fair amount of compression on pump gas. Aim for 11.5:1 or so. Your static compression ratio will influence your camshaft design tremendously.

Those things are a few off the top of my head.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Who do you use when getting a custom grind for you particular setup(s)?

DenzSS

I used Norm at Westech Automotive in WI.

Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction is also very good.

There are a number of others, but they don't sell to the general public. You have to go through a shop.

Those two I know are very good at camshaft design and would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

Mike K.

You might want to let whover builds the motor or at least the heads recommend a camshaft, especially pending flow numbers at different lift ranges. Also no power adder etc? You can get a 408 lonblock easily for what you are willing to spend. You may even want to get an aluminum ls2 block especially if you are going to wait awhile.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

I think its cool you are finding answers now, but in 2 years the game will be completly different.
You will have the LS2 and LS7 motors out which means different blocks different heads different intake and TB's. The info you collect now will be good but the best thing you can do is just read and learn.
You are at the right site to learn. Just sit back and read. There is WAY more to making a car fast then 500RWHP. Make sure you learn about suspension/ tire combo's converters gears boltons drag racing etc.
To have a fast car you need the right combo. Having a very well high HP motor is just a start.

AmericanMuscle

Thanks for all the responses guy's.

AmericanMuscle

This is probley a stupid question, are the LS2 and LS7 engines iron or aluminum blocks?

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

You can build this engine easily for your price range. I have built 408 short blocks for as little as $3200-$3500 completely machined and balanced.

BOO HOO BRIAN

iTrader: (-10)

Pm Sent

Wire Dog

I am currently looking for the same set up.

e-mail me your quotes on the shortblock.

BOO HOO BRIAN

iTrader: (-10)

pm sent

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

BTW if your looking now look no further than AP Engineering.
Great prices and great CS.
The LS2 block is a 6.0 Aluminum, the LS7 ??????

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

There are a lot of places out there that build 408's. I am having FMS build mine. I have compared the prices and they are dead even or lower than most places.

SSilver

I am in the market for one too that would hold up to about 10psi of boost and a 100 shot...

anyone got any suggestions?

SSilver

ttt.....

DenzSS

Safest thing-C5R block. .010" over iron block should be capable of it as well.

Suggestions: AP as a sponsor, Westech as a non-sponsor.