New project, almost starting
03-29-2013, 08:40 AM
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New project, almost starting Now that I am closer to having a driveshaft for my car and actually being able to drive it, I am getting anxious to start the next step. Not sure if I want to kep this or get a resleeved LS2 with 4.125 bore.
If resleeved, it will get forged rotating assembly. If i do keep this block, I am not sure it will be forged, but I have seen what happens to the stock stuff, boosted or not.
Any one here used callies dragonslayer crank before? what rods? Looking for N/A build, could spray or boost way down the road but would be willing to change the cam and pistons then.
It will be getting a FAST 102 intake, some make of 102 throttle body.
probably fast fuel rails.
Anyone know what injector size I should be looking for?
Anyone running the Racetronix hot wire kit and pump? thoughts on how it works and install?
Yes I know many questions, thanks in advance for any input.
Appreciate your experienced advise.
If resleeved, it will get forged rotating assembly. If i do keep this block, I am not sure it will be forged, but I have seen what happens to the stock stuff, boosted or not.
Any one here used callies dragonslayer crank before? what rods? Looking for N/A build, could spray or boost way down the road but would be willing to change the cam and pistons then.
It will be getting a FAST 102 intake, some make of 102 throttle body.
probably fast fuel rails.
Anyone know what injector size I should be looking for?
Anyone running the Racetronix hot wire kit and pump? thoughts on how it works and install?
Yes I know many questions, thanks in advance for any input.
Appreciate your experienced advise.
03-29-2013, 09:46 AM
#2
I had a callies compstar crank and compstar rods in my 418 LS3 stroker. Excellent products. The Dragonslayer is a step above the compstar and is forged in the USA. I had 52# injectors that supported 513 rwHp without a boost-a-pump. They were at about 90% duty cycle. The math for selecting the correct size is fairly simple. It's a function of airflow (cylinder bore and stroke) and AFR at your max rpm. I don't have the exact formula on me right now or I'd calculate it for you.
If you're going to swap pistons if you go FI or N2O then that would be a good time to upgrade from the compstar rods also. Callies recommended their Magnum rods to me for a TT 427 build I am working on.
You may want to look into K1 crank and rods. They are Chinese but the cost is low. Do some research though.
If you're going to swap pistons if you go FI or N2O then that would be a good time to upgrade from the compstar rods also. Callies recommended their Magnum rods to me for a TT 427 build I am working on.
You may want to look into K1 crank and rods. They are Chinese but the cost is low. Do some research though.
03-29-2013, 10:24 AM
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I was considering matching the rods to the crank in someway, like not using compstar rods on a dragonslayer crank.
A local shop, Hinson supercars has used K1 alot as far as I know and seems to be successful with them.
I am considering CTS-Vbiggies n20 kit, but have a line on a set of ls7 heads for a good price that may get my money.
A local shop, Hinson supercars has used K1 alot as far as I know and seems to be successful with them.
I am considering CTS-Vbiggies n20 kit, but have a line on a set of ls7 heads for a good price that may get my money.