4l60e parts
06-11-2013, 04:43 PM
#3
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06-12-2013, 06:41 AM
#5
Launching!
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There is really no need to change drums unless yours is cracked or you see something else wrong with it. If you do change drums make sure your input shaft is the same as your original.
06-12-2013, 10:33 PM
#7
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Very early 4l60e (1993?) had a different 3/4 clutch spacer than the later ones (which are stamped with a "7"); therefore I think your 700r4 also has the older spacer. The spacer affects the number of frictions, thickness of the apply/backing plates, etc.
Therefore, I don't think you can just move the clutch pack; you need to move the spacer and apply/backing plates too.
NOTE: I have absolutely no experience with the 700R4; this is just from what I read in the ATSG "Update" manual.
Perhaps 72 blownvert or another builder can elaborate or correct me.
Therefore, I don't think you can just move the clutch pack; you need to move the spacer and apply/backing plates too.
NOTE: I have absolutely no experience with the 700R4; this is just from what I read in the ATSG "Update" manual.
Perhaps 72 blownvert or another builder can elaborate or correct me.
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06-13-2013, 07:33 AM
#8
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You are correct ted the stack up is different but if you change the complete drum and use the correct clutch and steel combo it will work fine. Or you can take all the internals out of each drum and swap them that will work fine also and you will have your original 4l60-e stack up in the 700 drum. personally i would not change drums at all unless it is cracked. If it just needs clutches just build that drum along with going through the unit and be done.
07-03-2013, 01:55 AM
#11
On The Tree
A late 700 will have a "4" apply ring, while the 60E's have a "7" ring. You can stack a decent 3-4 on a "4" ring. I stack them exactly the same as the 60E. They just come out a few thousandths tighter, which is fine...
If you're thinking about just changing the 3-4 clutch plates and putting it back together... Dont... Save yourself the trouble of pulling it back apart in a very short period of time. You need to pull the input drum all the way apart, replace the 3-4 piston, reseal everything in the drum and, most likely, replace the 3-4 apply and backing plates. Leave the load release springs out. Also, replace the Teflon sealing rings on the input shaft and the bushings in the stator support.
If you're thinking about just changing the 3-4 clutch plates and putting it back together... Dont... Save yourself the trouble of pulling it back apart in a very short period of time. You need to pull the input drum all the way apart, replace the 3-4 piston, reseal everything in the drum and, most likely, replace the 3-4 apply and backing plates. Leave the load release springs out. Also, replace the Teflon sealing rings on the input shaft and the bushings in the stator support.
07-05-2013, 05:31 PM
#12
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ok i pulled it apart to day and my 3to4th clutches were fine but my drive clutches were burnt up! also the write harness is missing? they sniped them from the lockup ??
07-05-2013, 07:25 PM
#13
The late 1993 700R4's used the same "one piece" (.220" - .230" thick) apply plate as all 4L60E's. You will run tighter clearances with the #7 apply ring, as it is apx. .025" shorter than the #4 apply ring. If you are going to use the stock clutch count setup, and you go over 5,000 rpm, DO NOT remove the load release springs. Or if you are going to use the TransGo Performance Shift kit, then use there HD springs from the kit, and then you can leave out the load release springs. If you change the clutch count to 7, 8 or 9, then you must use the TransGo spring setup if you go over 5,000 rpm. Otherwise the 3-4 clutches can start to apply slightly at hi-rpm's in 1st & 2nd gear.
07-05-2013, 09:35 PM
#14
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i have no clue what's been done to this Trans! there is no harness, no load release springs either. someone built this Trans back in 06 it only had 3k miles on it.so i just going to replace the clutches and see how long it will last maybe I'll buy a built one in the winter.
07-07-2013, 08:40 PM
#17
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IMHO, the existence of a cut harness and a B&M shift kit indicated the trans was hacked by someone not knowing much. The harness might have been cut to "disable" the lockup converter.
The B&M shift kit disabled the 1-2 accumulator for a brutal 1-2 shift that is hard on the trans and drivetrain. You should install either stock parts or a Transgo or Sonnax shift kit.
If you post a picture of the insides of the 1-2 accumulator we can verify what it is. If you want to go with stock springs, I could send you a set.
A new wiring harness is $32:
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035400a.htm
The B&M shift kit disabled the 1-2 accumulator for a brutal 1-2 shift that is hard on the trans and drivetrain. You should install either stock parts or a Transgo or Sonnax shift kit.
If you post a picture of the insides of the 1-2 accumulator we can verify what it is. If you want to go with stock springs, I could send you a set.
A new wiring harness is $32:
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035400a.htm