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clutch issue

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Old 06-29-2013, 11:53 AM
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Car Info: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am LS1 M6
- ls6 intake
- long tube headers
- 3.42 gears
- tune

I took my 99 TA ls1 m6 to the track last night and noticed something wrong w/ the clutch.

We'll let me start that from the last time I took it I raced it 2 times and on both my clutch would grind & it would be hard to shift @ 6,000 rpm. Since then I replaced the clutch fluid (WHICH WAS BLACK AND LIKE GUNK PIECES) and my brake fluid. After that I've noticed the clutch a little softer, easier to shift (more like butter).

Last night though doing a burnout on 1st gear it wasn't smoking tires, so i shift it into 2nd gear and at that time my clutch didn't want to DISENGAGE (it was stuck to the floor) so I pumped it a bit hard to pop it out and then shifted into 2nd and tried to do a burnout and it wasn't doing anything so i just let go and went forward and the clutch got stuck to the floor again.

What could have caused this? What can do I to check it? Help me out please, i'd really appreciate it, thanks!

OH BTW I ran a 14.0 @ 102 on the 1/4. (I know something is missing or the tune isn't right... I shifted good w/ no issues, but i did peel out all of 1st gear)
Old 07-01-2013, 07:23 PM
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Sounds like you hazed the clutch. If it isn't toast and just severely glazed, lots of easy miles could limp it back to health. Though it'll probably never be the same, also I'd swap out the fluid again as it probably boiled from the heat.
Old 07-02-2013, 11:49 AM
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i drove it last night @ town and it's working fine, should I do the drill mod & swap out clutch as we'll? or should I just buy a new hydraulic clutch like tick/mccleod/ls6 ?
Old 07-02-2013, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by avoctane
i drove it last night @ town and it's working fine, should I do the drill mod & swap out clutch as we'll? or should I just buy a new hydraulic clutch like tick/mccleod/ls6 ?
Whenever I had this issue, I just replaced everything at one time lol. My car used to act the exact same as yours and I just bought a Tick/Monster package that came with an 18lbs flywheel, clutch assembly, slave cylinder, master cylinder, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel/pressure plate bolts, speedbleeder, etc. Now my clutch can take any kind of abuse without ever limping out on me and going into each gear is a breeze even at 6,500rpms. I've had it for 10,000 miles now and have talked 11 people into this setup as well and they love it. http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
Old 07-02-2013, 06:40 PM
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That sounds like the rest of the year allowance to myself!! Lol I was hoping for like a $300 fix but I'll keep saving then for this. Thanks!
Old 07-02-2013, 10:38 PM
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If you can't afford it at the moment and/or don't want to spend that much you could go another route. I just read way to many threads where somebody has a sticking clutch issue and for one person a Tick Master solved the problem, then didn't solve it for another person, and a new slave for this person fixed their issue while another member tries that and doesn't fix their issue and eventually you buy a whole new assembly trying to fix the issue when you could have just gone with a new assembly initially. In a nutshell, the factory clutches with self-adjusting pressure plates are usually the reason of the sticking clutch, which would be your ls1/ls6/and eventually ls7 clutches. You won't regret the Monster though if you take that route, with a bolt-on to mildly head/cam car this clutch is awesome, has awesome drivability, and allows you constantly hit gears with ease. The 18lbs flywheel makes it little bit more fun too since it revs quicker.



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